E46 M3 will not start please help

[Breeze1]

Disconnecting the battery and touching the two leads together simply resets your clock and trip odometer.

All adaptations and codes are stored in non-volatile memory, meaning that they will not erase unless a diag request was done to clear them.

I have read this on some forums and did it myself a few times, and could have sworn that the car was behaving differently, but since you're an expert on the matter and I'm not, let's say that it was just the placebo effect

Which brings me to INPA, tested succesfully for the first time on my car last weekend, thanks to your thread on the Z3 forum, 328 Power 04 (I hope you don't mind if I share it) :
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...&highlight=DME

That would be for a thorough diagnostic and error codes cleaning, as well as some professional tools available on the market which I could give Dugihowser no advice about since I have never used one myself.

[DugiHowser]

Very important clue, don't see how I missed it, but Breeze1 caught it!

With this new info, I agree with him-Remove and replace that fuel!
Clear all codes - reset adaptations - bring engine up to temp.

Since you have stalling issue,bring engine up to temp by starting and idling in your driveway,
if it hasn't stalled - attempt a short trip around the block, if still no stall - a little further.
Post back with results.

The tank is 3/4 full and Ill have to figure out where I can dispose of the old fuel. If disposing will be an issue then I will just take it to a shop and have them do it. But I will make a list of the parts already replaced and give it to the pros incase they will need to diagnose it further. Ill put in an order for the fuel filter now.

[DugiHowser]

UPDATE!
I ran the car in the driveway for about 15-20min without stall. I decided to take it for a spin around the block as MIKYZZ4 mentioned earlier. No stalling between shifts and or coming to a stop. I did come across a new issue unfortunately.. During my test run I came up to a straight where I stepped on it! In 3rd gear and nearing 5k rpm the EML light came on and the engine operating temp lights on the tac come on. Very little throttle response. I could floor it and it did nothing. Wouldn't respond to anything over 2k-3k rpm. I believe it went into limp mode (but I could be wrong). I pulled over and it slowly dropped to 500rpm then lower to eventually stall out. I started it back up again and the EML light was gone. Drove it back to the house with out issue.

I read elsewhere the cause of the EML light is from a faulty actuator. Does that sound accurate? Note: No CEL or lights on dash currently.

[MIKYZZ4]

A scan with a BMW specific scantool/software would now be more helpful,
than a generic OBD2 scan tool.
But if one is not readily available,
perform a scan with what you have, it may provide a clue.

[bmwdirtracer]

Given that there's an EML light involved, and the throttle motor (actuator) costs somewhere about $650-$850, , I'd absolutely want the car scanned by the best diag tool possible. Personally, I'd use ISTA, which might best be able to differentiate between a throttle position sensor, a pedal potentiometer, or the throttle motor assembly.

Might just want to clean all the throttle blade paths, too......

[MIKYZZ4]

Happy Fourth of July, Chris!
I noticed your latest post,
informative > as always!
Enjoy the rest of the day!

[bmwdirtracer]

You too, my friend! Happy Independence Day !

[DugiHowser]

Given that there's an EML light involved, and the throttle motor (actuator) costs somewhere about $650-$850, , I'd absolutely want the car scanned by the best diag tool possible. Personally, I'd use ISTA, which might best be able to differentiate between a throttle position sensor, a pedal potentiometer, or the throttle motor assembly.

Might just want to clean all the throttle blade paths, too......

I couldn't agree more! Even thought the EML light is not on anymore nor CEL. EML coming on for the short time it did, it was enough to convince me it needs to see a pro before I dish out on a new actuator.

If an actuator is needed.. Should I buy new or would it be ok to buy a used one off eBay or salvage yard?

Thanks for all your help guys Happy 4th!!

[dworthy]

I would wait on the scan first. Buying off Ebay for something like this can be risky, unless you get a guarantee that it will work, even so used isn't always a bad idea. With INPA I can see the percent on the pedal and the also the throttle body IIRC. So make sure you know exactly what needs to be replaced before tossing parts at it.

[DugiHowser]

I would wait on the scan first. Buying off Ebay for something like this can be risky, unless you get a guarantee that it will work, even so used isn't always a bad idea. With INPA I can see the percent on the pedal and the also the throttle body IIRC. So make sure you know exactly what needs to be replaced before tossing parts at it.

I hear ya. I'll be dropping it off to a BMW specialist tonight and crossing my fingers!

[DugiHowser]

Update!

The mechanic tested throttle position today and told there was no response after 55%. Why because when I cleaned the throttle bodies and reinstalled the boots I used generic clamps and these clamps blocked the lever from opening the throttle all the way (I feel like such a dummy!) Fortunately there is no real issue with the actuator.

As far as the stalling issue goes he was unable to narrow it down yet. He reported my OBD port was damaged and couldn't get a good read. I will have him replace that. He did tell me that the car did not stall once when he ran it and moved it which I'm hoping is a good sign. Either way I will update.

[Breeze1]

That's good news! Narrowing it down step by step and getting better along the way

Edit: Did he say something about the fuel (I mention that because you said your issues started after you last fill up)?

I would change the fuel and the fuel filter if I were you. It doesn't cost much, it's easy to swap and it might be one of, if not the last thing standing between you and a purring inline 6

Worst case scenario it'll not improve things but it will not be wasted (except for the fuel).

[DugiHowser]

That's good news! Narrowing it down step by step and getting better along the way

Edit: Did he say something about the fuel (I mention that because you said your issues started after you last fill up)?

I would change the fuel and the fuel filter if I were you. It doesn't cost much, it's easy to swap and it might be one of, if not the last thing standing between you and a purring inline 6

Worst case scenario it'll not improve things but it will not be wasted (except for the fuel).

I did not. But, Awaiting his call on his findings. I will update him on the fuel and filter as well.

[bmwdirtracer]

See that? Diagnostics are everything ! You hook a computer to it, and everything stops at 55%, so you go looking for why, and you find a hose clamp in the way, and save the owner $800 !

Never mind feeling stupid: both I, and the technician that found that issue, have made far more car mistakes than you ever will!

[dworthy]

See that? Diagnostics are everything ! You hook a computer to it, and everything stops at 55%, so you go looking for why, and you find a hose clamp in the way, and save the owner $800 !

Never mind feeling stupid: both I, and the technician that found that issue, have made far more car mistakes than you ever will!

^^^ That's a fact! I have done some really stupid stuff too, and then you go back to check, as Homer Simpson say: DOHHH!

[Breeze1]

Can't be as stupid as what I did the first time I wanted to change spark plugs by myself: I set the torque wrench backwards to loosen a plug and ended up paying 300€ (I was a student back then) to get the dealer remove the broken spark plug from the cylinder head

Hated myself so much that day

[DugiHowser]

Update:
This is what my mechanic emailed me.

"Since we spoke on Friday, I have looked more into the stalling issue.
There was a fault code #1 stored in the engine control module Driver / Relay ,Fuel pump . I inspected the relay, which I believe you have replaced.
I performed a fuel pressure check.4.6 bar at idle-good.
I repositioned your aftermarket hose clamps and ran the engine, and have not experienced a stalling at all.
I reassembled the vehicle and performed a short road-test and experienced no stalling or reoccurrence of the EML light.
I retested that car after letting it sit overnight and performed an approximately 10 mile road-test without a stalling issue.
Unless the stalling becomes more consistent/reproduceable we are at a stopping point."

Pic 1.jpgPic 2.jpgPic 3.jpg

[Breeze1]

Update:


"I repositioned your aftermarket hose clamps

Hahemm

Glad yo hear you got it fixed, congratulations

[DugiHowser]

Hahemm

Glad yo hear you got it fixed, congratulations

I'm not sure if it is 100% fixed but, very happy it was nothing major and he was able to sort it out. If issue comes up again Ill report. In the meantime I will get the fuel filter changed and get the Injectors cleaned to help further.

Side note: I'm pretty certain the power steering is going but cannot pinpoint. I had the mechanic look into it however, he says what he hears is normal for my M3. Not to doubt his opinion but, I think its not normal. I definitely hear an annoying wine when turning the wheel. I do not feel it struggling when turning and I already replaced the reservoir/filter. I found that the fluid went from normal color to a dark brown/grey color. Any tips or is this indeed normal?

[Breeze1]

I'm not sure if it is 100% fixed but, very happy it was nothing major and he was able to sort it out. If issue comes up again Ill report. In the meantime I will get the fuel filter changed and get the Injectors cleaned to help further.

Side note: I'm pretty certain the power steering is going but cannot pinpoint. I had the mechanic look into it however, he says what he hears is normal for my M3. Not to doubt his opinion but, I think its not normal. I definitely hear an annoying wine when turning the wheel. I do not feel it struggling when turning and I already replaced the reservoir/filter. I found that the fluid went from normal color to a dark brown/grey color. Any tips or is this indeed normal?

Having had numerous issues with the power steering pump myself and the E46's being notoriously sensitive in that regard I'm tempted to say that it's "normal" lol. The whining you hear is a sign that the PS pump is not as good as it used to be, but still doing the job since you're not struggling with the wheel.
Here is something you can try that might improve things a bit: when you start up the car and before you move it off, give the oil a couple of secs to run through the circuit and then turn the wheel to the left side until it locks, then the right side (or the other way around), repeat another time; it will bleed the system from any air bubbles that could have gotten in and it might reduce the noise.

One word of advise given what I have been through (three -used- pumps in 3 years haha) : do NOT chase the rabbit; give it some time and the noise might go by itself (it happened to me a couple of times). At some point it will either get better or fail completely. If it does, replace the pump and replace the reservoir again to avoid contaminating the new pump with metal particles from the old one (it'll scratch the surface of the new one and you'll be back where you started).

[DugiHowser]

Having had numerous issues with the power steering pump myself and the E46's being notoriously sensitive in that regard I'm tempted to say that it's "normal" lol. The whining you hear is a sign that the PS pump is not as good as it used to be, but still doing the job since you're not struggling with the wheel.
Here is something you can try that might improve things a bit: when you start up the car and before you move it off, give the oil a couple of secs to run through the circuit and then turn the wheel to the left side until it locks, then the right side (or the other way around), repeat another time; it will bleed the system from any air bubbles that could have gotten in and it might reduce the noise.

One word of advise given what I have been through (three -used- pumps in 3 years haha) : do NOT chase the rabbit; give it some time and the noise might go by itself (it happened to me a couple of times). At some point it will either get better or fail completely. If it does, replace the pump and replace the reservoir again to avoid contaminating the new pump with metal particles from the old one (it'll scratch the surface of the new one and you'll be back where you started).

Great advise thank you!

[Breeze1]

Don't mention it!

[bmwdirtracer]

It's not good that your fluid became contaminated so quickly after a reservoir change and flush. (You did flush it, right?) Certainly, that fluid should be bright red, after working on the system. It's entirely possible that the pump, and or the rack, is dying.

However....every BMW power steering system has a hose with a restrictor in it. Here's yours:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_1251

See part number 3? See that inexplicable collar in the pipe, right near where #3 points? That's a restrictor; the tiniest orifice in the system. If it gets clogged, the pump will whine.

[DugiHowser]

It's not good that your fluid became contaminated so quickly after a reservoir change and flush. (You did flush it, right?) Certainly, that fluid should be bright red, after working on the system. It's entirely possible that the pump, and or the rack, is dying.

However....every BMW power steering system has a hose with a restrictor in it. Here's yours:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_1251

See part number 3? See that inexplicable collar in the pipe, right near where #3 points? That's a restrictor; the tiniest orifice in the system. If it gets clogged, the pump will whine.

Yes I completely flushed it. As soon I started to burp the system after changing the reservoir the red fluid turned brown/grey as mentioned. I did buy a new pump a few months back but never installed. Perhaps I should add new hoses along with a new reservoir and replace all to start a new.

[dworthy]

I would just dump the fluid and refill the system, then go thru the bleeding process as described above. I thought my pump was a bit loud, as I have the wagon to compare it too. But alas with a rebuilt pump, new reservoir, it sound almost exactly the same. So I am keeping the original pump, and not returning it for a core charge. BTW I had about 95k on the car when I did the pump.