Sorry for the delay. Today I replaced the fuel pump and fuel pump relay along with ignition fuses and various others. Even replaced the battery as the old was flat. Runs much better however it still stalls out. Especially when at low idle or putting it into gear. It runs way better when MAF is plugged in for sure. When unplugged it acts the same but rougher idle.
I did notice something new.. When shutting the car off Im noticing a "tic" sound by or under the brake booster. Sounds as if its sparking or shorting out. I only hear it when shutting the car off. Could that be the cause?
I'm also thing possible bad injector(s)? Thoughts?
Clear codes,
Reset adaptations.
Scan for new codes after symptoms reappear.
The tick by the brake booster will be a main relay unloading, so don't worry about that.
Like noted above, any new codes?
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
I would remove and clean out the IACV, as you seem to be stalling only at idle.
Could be,
but doubt it, as I believe rough running conditions would be across all ranges, not just idle.
Very true. Thats why this is so frustrating. As of now what I have done..
IACV - Cleaned and free
Intake manifold - Cleaned
MAF - New (Bosch)
Fuel Pump - New
Fuel Pump Relay - New
Ignition Fuses - New
Smoke Tested - No leaks
No current CEL or Codes
If there is anything that you guys can think of to have have looked please let me know.
P.S. Throttle body - Cleaned
You've been pretty thorough,
so I'm going to suggest somethings that improve an engines overall running condition.
Proper sparkplugs - BMW DCPR8EKP Spark Plug - NGK 7415,
in good condition/gap- (set removed w/photo would be helpful).
Locate and cleanup all engine grounds.
Inspect battery cables and check all associated connections are clean&tight.
Send out injectors for cleaning:http://www.rcfuelinjection.com/Store...ector-cleaning
If cause still not found, maybe time to suspect/inspect DME.
I'm stumped also, just suggesting some options that may improve idle conditions,
hopefully others can improve on my suggestions.
Did you take note of how much fuel was in the tank when you had the pump out? I just went through the entire thread and, while the fact that it runs sometimes would seem to indicate sufficient fuel, I can tell you from recent experience that low fuel condition exhibits some of the characteristics you're reporting. So, regardless of what the gauge says, are you certain you have at least a couple gallons of fuel in the tank? If not, go and get some.
Has the car had any water damage to the DME, or water entry into DME box somehow?
Having fixed a few BMWs with dme issues from water entry lately, I am currently fixated on that. I do have an extra MSS54HP that I can send you if needed, I can do the ews delete if you need.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
I hear ya and much appreciated.
New Battery (replaced yesterday) but I will double check the connections.
New spark plugs NGK Pre-gapped (replaced less than 200 miles ago).
I will check the grounds.
Update: I reset adaption and started it up. Did NOT stall out! However it did have an uneven idle. I did pull it out of the garage keeping low RPM and it held. Forward and reverse it held until it stalled out once. Backed it back into the garage without issue. Rev'd it high a couple times and it held. Im not sure if that means anything but its as if it improved little.
Im going to pick some fuel stabilizer / injector cleaner hoping it will help with the idling. A quick question; would a faulty injector throw a code or CEL?
- - - Updated - - -
3/4 of a tank full. If the gauge is wrong I can confirm fuel in the tank. Enough to submerge the pump entirely upon install.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Hang On, Dugi.....
Sure, you put a new fuel pump in it....but you still haven't monitored the fuel pressure, with symptom manifesting. I'm not sure that you've had a professional smoke test, either? You haven't watched live data for the MAF, long term fuel trim, and other parameters.
And how old is the gas?
And .....water, oh crap. Yeah, water's never good. IS THE DME BOX DRY ??? You need to inspect this carefully, and unplug the computer(s), examine and clean the electrical plugs, both sides, with electrical contact cleaner.
Yes, DME = Digital Motor Electronics = ECU = Engine Control Unit. In BMWs, this is a DME..
I believe you might be best served by allowing a BMW specialist pro to lay hands on your car for an hour or two. As much effort as you've put into fixing it, I'm not convinced that definitive diagnostics have been completed yet.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
-Last I smoke tested it, I found a leak coming from the throttle body boot which since has been fixed and smoke tested again with no noticeable leaks.
-Water did get into the cab yes but it was not flooded. Engine compartment dry. DME box dry.
-I will try to connect to the fuel line to read fuel pressure.
I do not disagree with you. I am not a professional however I feel as though I'm making some progress as its running not stalling out like it was prior. Anyway your right, at this point might as well spend the money and give it to a professional..
- - - Updated - - -
Fuel is about 5 months old however, the is right about the time the issues started.
From the updates you posted, you definitely seem to be getting closer!
My 2 cents:
- dump the old fuel and replace it with a fresh one*
- start the car and let some of the new fuel go through the system to get rid of whatever is remaining from the old one
- change the fuel filter (which might already have been clogged by the fuel, if it is at fault)
- if the symptoms persist even slightly, send your injectors for cleaning, as advised by bmwdirtracer
- if none of that works, write down all the parts you have changed and all the steps you have already taken and take the car to a pro (the list will allow him to narrow things down and not waste time on stuff already done)
* I would have advised to add some injectors cleaning additive to help, had I not recently blown the engine of my car literally 10 miles after putting one in my fuel tank Maybe it was at fault, maybe not, but I have to admit that I made 2 mistakes: confusing between STP and some cheapo lookalike brand AND only putting only 3 gallons of gasoline with it, instead of a full tank.
Last edited by Breeze1; 07-02-2018 at 11:01 AM.
Ok I will get on that. I will dump the old fuel for new. FYI: Fuel filter changed 500 miles ago and I did use fuel additive last fill up. Reason for additive is that I suspected to have some water in my tank so I used HEET fuel treatment. Recently I put in another bottle of fuel treatment this time around I used Techtron by Chevron (after reading reviews it was highly recommended over it's competitors). Regardless I will flush out the old fuel with new and start there. If nothing changes I will get the injectors cleaned next.
And if all that doesn't do the trick I will bring it to the shop.
If you hadn't changed the fuel before changing the filter it might have clogged the new one as well, in case it was contaminated with dirt... Since you already put 2 additives I think it would be a waste (maybe even harmful) to put a third one. At this point fuel change + filter a few miles later, and then injectors.
Edit: you could also reset the DME right after performing the above (before starting the car after you've changed the filter). I'm not sure if that would help, but as far as I know it couldn't hurt either that it "unlearns" whatever error codes were thrown at it, to start from a clean slate. The procedure is easy: disconnect the battery for an hour or so...there is a quicker way of doing it (joining the "+" and "-" cables for a few secs, after disconnecting the battery), but as your car is an SMG and I have never owned one, I would rather not take the chance. The more electronics the more careful you ought to be...
Last edited by Breeze1; 07-02-2018 at 11:19 AM.
Very important clue, don't see how I missed it, but Breeze1 caught it!Fuel is about 5 months old however, the is right about the time the issues started.
With this new info, I agree with him-Remove and replace that fuel!
Clear all codes - reset adaptations - bring engine up to temp.
Since you have stalling issue,bring engine up to temp by starting and idling in your driveway,
if it hasn't stalled - attempt a short trip around the block, if still no stall - a little further.
Post back with results.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
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