Stomp test won't work

[91e34M5]

I've tried and tried and tried but I can't get a stomp test to work on my 91 850. I know how to do a stomp test because it always works when I do one on my 91 M5. Anybody got any suggestions?

[EEDegreeToDrive]

It's terribly easy ;-)
1) Turn ignition to Run (not start)
2) Wait for the EML light to go out.. <1 sec
Then.. Do this 5 times (In less than 5 seconds):
3) Press the accelerator all the way to the kick down button for about 1/4 second and release

If you did it right, CEL will blink once, then blink out your code(s). After the code(s) it will pause and repeat the codes.
Even if you have no codes, it should still blink out 1 4 4 4 . If you can't get it, turn the key back off for a few seconds and try again.

Then...
Shut everything off, and repeat the test, but press it 6 times to read codes out of the second DME.
All codes originating from DME #2 should start with 2 flashes

Good Luck!

[91e34M5]

GOT IT! Didn't know I had to wait for the EML light to go out. Don't have an EML light in the M5. Thanks for your help.
Got a 1444 and a 2221. I know the 1444 is a good code...if my research is correct, 2221 is the drivers side 02 sensor....correct?

[EEDegreeToDrive]

Good deal-- Glad you figured it out.

This code is stored when the engine temperature is >70C and
the Oxygen Sensor value is out of range or not present. Check
the Oxygen Sensor wiring and the operation of the sensor. The
value should fluctuate between 0.02 and 0.85V. Slow
fluctuation indicates a polluted Oxygen sensor and negative
values indicate a damaged sensor. Note: Cars without
Catalytic Convertors will incorrectly store this code

Obviously, check the wiring first to make sure everything is connected properly. Remember They get 'slow' and lose responsiveness, which slowly causes crappy performance and lost gas mileage. You may be able to clean it, but I'm not sure how effective that is/will be.

If you change it, I'd recommend changing both, here's why:
O2 sensors only last 80-100K miles. You can also have a 'weak' or 'slow' O2 sensor and not get a code. You only get a code when the signal is too far out of whack (As is the case with your 2nd bank?)

RockAuto has pretty good prices on Bosch O2 sensors. If you can pull the exhaust, that might be the easiest way. However, I was able to change mine from under the car using just a few wrenches. Spray it with PB Blaster or other penetrant oil; come back tomorrow; spray again.. Warm it up a little bit, and then try to take it out.
When putting your new ones in wrap the cord around the O2 sensor, so when you tighten the sensor, the cord unwinds as you turn..

[91e34M5]

Thanks Much....I would have been stomping from now until eternity if you hadn't advised that I needed to wait for the EML light to go out. I'll check my wiring soon, but I'm thinking that it'll be best to just go ahead and replace both of them. Pretty sure that both are original and the car has 98,000 miles so they have reached end of life. I've already checked Rock Auto and they definetly have the best prices so far. I have plenty of tools as well as an O2 socket. Not sure if it will work in this application, but it's worth a try. Thanks for the work tips!
Thanks again...

[Enemy]

Sorry to bring back the old thread, but does the stomp test work if the CEL is not already on?
I do not have the CEL on. But I wanted to do the stomp test to see if there's anything there because my car runs very rich, overheats and I feel like it's in limp mode when I do drive it.
I did the stomp test according to your instructions. Nothing happened. Disconnected negative terminal from batteries for 15 minutes, tried again, nothing.
Disconnected each MAF. Slight drop of idle upon plug disconnect, then back to normal. Same thing each side. Car did not stall.

[91e34M5]

If you're stomping after the EML light goes out, then you should be doing it right. I did not have a Check Engine Light, and I was still able to read codes, so that shouldn't be an issue. Sorry I can't be of any assistance.

[Enemy]

Im certainly doing it after EML light goes away.

This car is just not wanting to work with me at all

[m10n]

do you have a kick-down switch? maybe it is defective?

[Enemy]

Kick-down switch? I don't know what it is. I will have to look into this.

[moutine]

Only US, Canada and Japan spec have funtional CEL light? Right? Euro-spec does not.

[EEDegreeToDrive]

I've seen the CEL burned out light in a few cases. Make sure the CEL and EML light comes on briefly when you first turn the key.

Also, after reading your codes, you may need to press 5 more times briefly to advance to the next code.

[Enemy]

CEL light is the CHECK light, right?

If so, both the CHECK light and the EML light are working. They light up when I switch the key to the ON position and then they turn off.

[m10n]

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=846374
deductive reasoning concludes, this must be what triggers the test.

[Enemy]

Indeed. I did some searching after you first mentioned the switch and learned what it is, but I never went back to my car to look for it. I'll have to do that when I get home from work today. Thanks for your followup.

[TxGR8White]

Indeed. I did some searching after you first mentioned the switch and learned what it is, but I never went back to my car to look for it. I'll have to do that when I get home from work today. Thanks for your followup.

You don't have a kick-down switch because you have a 6-speed.

Only US, Canada and Japan spec have funtional CEL light? Right? Euro-spec does not.

Just a matter of installing a light bulb.

[m10n]

ahh, of course ... so on the 850 manual, it must be triggered by the throttle pot?

[Enemy]

So any ideas why it's not working for me or am I just executing the steps horribly?

[moutine]

Just a matter of installing a light bulb.

I don't know. I red some where that E34 (or was it E36?) doesn't eaven have the wire but do have funtional pin in ECU conector.

[duje]

So any ideas why it's not working for me or am I just executing the steps horribly?

It is not the orange CHECK light on the right, but the CHECK ENGINE red light on the left side of the cluster.

[Enemy]

I was afraid I was thinking of the wrong light. In either case, I don't have any warning lights actively lit on my cluster.

I understand that the CEL is not required to be lit before one can perform the stomp test.

I also understand that even if there is nothing to report, the stomp test should read 1 4 4 4 anyway, correct? By default?

[duje]

I also tried mine several times, but it also doesn't work
If you have CEL on in key position 2, and stomp test doesn't work after EML goes out, we have the same problem, although mine CEL lit up quite often until I replaced intake gaskets.

[Kapitan]

If youre still having problems with the test, look at this, you can hear when i stept on the pedal.


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJERnvWyUf4&list=UUEFWggY_ERGUGtsETNcngcA& index=4&feature=plcp[/ame]

[lihp321]

What if the ELM light doesn't go out. I stomped with the light still on got the 1444 / 2444.

[Enemy]

I just stomped a few times, nothing. Posting video soon.