You were right, i wouldnt imagine it would be a 30amp but it was....
Did you check the connections I mentioned earlier to see if they were switched?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
You said that the purge valve is connected with a single wire plug. That plug is for the oil pressure switch. The two wire connector currently connected to the oil pressure switch is for the purge valve. That is why you blew a fuse. Swap those two connectors and replace the blown fuse.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
One arrow lines up with the arrow on the TB when you get the harness initially plugged in. After you rotate the collar on the harness, the 2nd arrow will wind up lining up with the arrow on the TB. If you are not 100% certain that you have it on correctly correct then I bet this is still the problem. The fact that you are questioning why there are 2 arrows leads me to believe you have not figured out that connection 100%. That problem had me stumped for a week when I did mine. It was only after the 3rd time that I pulled the TB off, and everything else for that matter, that I found the "trick" to the plug. I plugged it in while the TB was off and I finally found what I was doing wrong.
Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk
Ok, so i swaoped connectors and replaced the blown fuse and wow it started right up!! i ran it for a bit and started it afew more times and it ran great! so i started putting all the covers back on this morning and now it starts, idles forna second and dies!!! this is the car from HELL!! so i can here the fuel pump run..
So any ideas?now the only thing i did was to change the vaccum lines back how i had them...to begin with the hard line running to the right side was hooked to the rear of the intake and the line that went to the fpr ran to the line on top of the fuel rail and down to the ccv. And reading some of these posts, it said to run the line on the rid.ght sire of the motor to the fpr andn. The line from the rear of the intake to the ccv.so which one is correct? Im leaning towards the first one.
Please help....
Well it wasnt the vacuum lines changed it back around and no difference...it seeks it starving for fuel. When i start it, i can keep it running for alittle bit with the throttle and try to idle it and it just dies....so what the hell?
Check the connections and the fuse -again.
Ok.....
Unplug the maf and see if it idles. If it does then you probably have damaged an intake boot in the process of removing and reinstalling them. Or another large vacuum leak.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Where else would there be another vacuum leak?
Anything you disconnected. Brake booster vacuum hose, ccv and tubes ect. Should be a large leak if it won't idle. Make sure that your lower intake boot is properly connected to the throttle body AND idle control valve. If you can't find anything I would recommend a smoke test.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Well i did find a leak....the boot that attaches to the tb came off ..i guess that would be considered a leak... so l.
I am in the process of getting it put back on..
Now i do have a question, what is the best way to attach the boot to the tb....on any other car, youput the boot on and make sure the hose clake is on it, and tighten it down, but not this bmw....you put the boot on and tighten the hose clamp and you pull on it alittle and off it comes....
Loosen the clamp more first.
Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk
Yep, we could all use a bit more manual dexterity!
I'm sure that there is a tool that could be bought or fabricated,
but without them, I try to position the clamps in the best possible orientation,
that allows the best angle for final tightening.
Having someone with small hands available helps tremendously.
A flexible nut driver makes it much easier to get the two clamps on the lower intake boot.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
My method: I have the clamp screws facing left when the clamps are positioned on top, right at the 12 o'clock position. With the wire harness loosened or off, you can reach the clamps easily with a few extensions and a nut driver in your left hand, and your right hand can remain on the clamp making sure it stays in place until it is tight.
Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk
That worked and she is running good! Thanks for all your help!!
Good to hear you finally got it fixed. The clamps on the lower boot can be a pita to install. I suspect that the factory installed the boot before the engine is in the car due to the position of the clamps. Good luck with your car. I hope you learned from the experience.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Bookmarks