Eventhough you have LSD diff, it still doesn't have nearly enough locking power to move 3000+lb car when the other side has zero resistance. So all it can do is slip the clutches while giving tiny bit of motion.
When looking at your video it reminded exactly what I had and filmed, but on passanger side. I wanted to say I had this happen to me few months ago, but looking at the date of my post it was almost a year ago https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...7#post29845457
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Thank you man, comments and feedback like that make the build all that much better! Especially considering I too was a lurker for a while before my build!
I am going 210mm, i sourced and have a EVO e36 210mm diff and subframe on the way, will be running that along with all poly bushings, hoping to get that next week and hope to have her back up and running before the end of oct.
The plan will be
Drop rear end
remove bushings from doner m3 evo rear end
have parts sent off to be sand blasted/powdercoated
install new bushings
install new rear end
SEND IT
- - - Updated - - -
LOL i do remember that video, what did you end up doing after that? 210mm or replace the axles?
- - - Updated - - -
ya that makes sense, i knew the sticky tires would cause problems, Honestly I was expecting at LEAST a few pases before that happened, not on the first launch lol . oh well
I just replaced axel and that's all.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Well in order to not go through this again I'm going 210mm, just sent out my axles to get done by DSS as well, i don't want to worry about it.
On a more positive note I just got a nice box in the mail today
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
PT4788?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
What about no?
idiots on the interweb spouting free data gets free shitty results; if one keeps driving diffs made from garbage skills it might as well be a welded.
A proper diff does not need any preload to drive home on one axel; it just needs enough LOCK.
I drove home after breaking an axel on my 0 preload circuit unit; 6 miles up and down hwy 9 to cupertino to a friends garage to swap in a new axel.
0 preload means = diff turns like open diff; so if you break axels with an open diff making u turns you got some serious problems.
For any who actually have the balls to drive a welded; axels dont break often with a welded either unless power level is idiot for application parts;
Last edited by wanganstyle; 09-25-2018 at 01:08 AM.
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
Duplicate thread
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
Ah, the compressor cover threw me off. In my pondering about one day doing a single turbo setup I guessed that the PT7675 was the best bang for the size that might fit in our already tight engine compartment. Looking forward to the rest of your project.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Pulled the axles off the hub today... boy that was fun, had to call around to hunt down a 36mm 12point socket in order to remove the axle nut, used an impact wrench to take it off then hammered out the axle from the hub.
M3 axles are on route to DSS to get the 1000hp treatment they do... these things better hold up
Strengthening the axles moves the failure point to the next weakest link...and so it begins! ;-)
It's the stock ratio for the euro evo m3 which is 3.23, all the ratios you would normally expect are avail if needed....going to see how this ratio works with the upcoming turbo build and go from there before swapping anything out, if that doesn't work i'll swap it out for the trusted 3.91 like i currently have.
On version 2.0 of the car build lol i will also be going hydroboost so i can remove the annoying brake booster that gets in the way when trying to remove my valve covers.
Just go pictures of the setup assembled and will bolt right where the brake booster is, i'll take detailed pics of the install process in case anyone out there decides on it in the future.
Hydroboost kit is from http://www.custompowerbrake.com, i emailed him and although it's not on his website he has done it for e36 before and all that's needed is for you to send him your brake pedal assembly so he can modify it to work with the kit below
Last edited by RulyLSX; 09-29-2018 at 04:06 PM.
That link is no good. Did you get it from Elliot? If so, back when I was piecing mine together, I sent him a stock E36 eBay booster and a set of eBay E36 pedals to use for mock-up.
As far as I know, until now, mine was the only E36 setup he'd done. Glad to see another.
Elliot is a good guy.
link fixed, yup it's elliot's site! Got ahold of him after you referring him to me. Thanks again!
I only had to send him my brake assembly so i'm guessing he's using the mock up plans from your build haha.
DO you have pictures of how you set yours up? Was is pretty straightforward?
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
Glad to help. I'm happy to see Elliot get some more E36 business. I think most of his clientele is the American muscle car crowd.
I told him he could keep the E36 booster. I'm pretty sure he said he was going to make some notes or a jig at the time he did mine so he could duplicate it in the future.
Insofar as hooking it up, the bolt-in is pretty straight forward. And the brake lines are no different than with the vacuum booster, obviously.
I have some info starting here (and continuing in some posts after that) on making the hydraulic hoses. I thought about using JIC adapter fittings but I wanted to try to make it look more stockish, so I found an awesome custom hose shop nearby and used tube nuts with o-rings instead of JIC hose ends and fittings.
For the return back to the reservoir, it's not uncommon to tee the return line from the hydroboost to the existing power steering return line. But I've read of some people having problems when doing so.
I'm using LS2/GTO components so this reservoir, which is an aluminum duplicate of the OE plastic reservoir, might not work with your bracketry. But there are several aftermarket aluminum reservoirs available, and some already have two return ports;
I bought an aluminum replacement power steering reservoir, drilled a hole and had an additional o-ring bung tig-welded on. This way, the hydroboost will return directly to the reservoir.
I'm not sure if I have any pics of the reservoir in my thread so:
Here's a pic of the reservoir out of the box.
And here's one with the additional bung welded in
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 09-29-2018 at 05:16 PM.
By the way, if you've never seen this diagram, it's pretty much all you need to figure out your plumbing.
Again, the diagram depicts a return tee. But I eliminated the tee, instead using two direct return lines to the reservoir:
Not sure if this ever going to see a road course track, if so, I'd think twice about going hydroboost. The steering fluid is around boiling condition at the track, adding a booster into the loop will be even more cooking fun.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
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