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Thread: 2018 LSX into E36 build - 1998 328I

  1. #76
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Stuttgart, Germany
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    577
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    1997 M3 / 5.3
    I've had that feeling before...first drive. Looking forward to our date...

    Look great...especially without the hood.

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    I've had that feeling before...first drive. Looking forward to our date...

    Look great...especially without the hood.

    Since I got the car I have spent any free time working on the build,driving it for the first time simply to just get gas was such an amazing experience.... a bit addicting :P

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    I drove it around a bit more today and there is a knocking sound coming from the driver side front tire, I know it's not engine related as the sound only comes when going over 20mph and doens't increase when I rev it. I'm thinking it has to do with the alignment or wheel balance as both haven't been done yet and my alignment is REALLY after the suspension work i did

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Figured out the knocking sound, Left the lug bolts a little to lose.

    Hooked up a scanner to the obd2 port and getting

    -p0650 code which is for the check engine light not working . it's not turning on when i put the key to the "on" position so im guessing my bulb is out. Ordered an m3 gauge cluster from ebay
    can't remember the other code but it had to do with it not detecting engine speed or something


    Will try to fix up these codes and also make sure I don't have any vacuum leaks as I have a pending code for that

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Houston, TX
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    My Cars
    1997 M3 Sedan
    That code is because there’s nothing connected to the CEL circuit. That circuit is in the x6031 connector which is eliminated in the Wiring Specialties harness (at least the one I have). I added a pin on the PCM side and ran a single wire to the correct pin on the x6031 connector and the code cleared and CEL started working.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by BigL350 View Post
    That code is because there’s nothing connected to the CEL circuit. That circuit is in the x6031 connector which is eliminated in the Wiring Specialties harness (at least the one I have). I added a pin on the PCM side and ran a single wire to the correct pin on the x6031 connector and the code cleared and CEL started working.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    The codes I am currently getting are

    --P0650 - Is this the one you added a pin and got it cleared? I was assuming the wiring specialties harness would just work as is... Sucks I have to add something to it to get the check engine light working

    --P0500 - Speed sensor malfunction - I am assuming this is nothing to be concerned about? Speedo on gauge is working and I used a block off on the t56 magnum since I was told the speedo works off the diff and didn't need to plug this in

    --P0171 - System lean bank 1
    --P0174 - System lean bank 2

    I googled the system lean codes and it looks like these ones are usually related to vacuum line leaks, I do have one line (#4 in this picture) That i never capped, i'm going to cap this one and hope that makes the code go away


  7. #82
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Houston, TX
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    1997 M3 Sedan
    I was a little disappointed too with no CEL included in the wiring. That is what’s triggering the p0650 code.

    I don’t know what the consequences are of not having VSS signal to the PCM but in my case the sensor was there and the harness had a plug for it so I used it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by BigL350 View Post
    I was a little disappointed too with no CEL included in the wiring. That is what’s triggering the p0650 code.

    I don’t know what the consequences are of not having VSS signal to the PCM but in my case the sensor was there and the harness had a plug for it so I used it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    I emailed support at wiring specialties and they said that my harness is wired up and should trigger CEL on the e36 dash, once i get the new gauges i'll confirm since I do believe my bulb is out. the magnum doesn't have a speed sensor so i hope no issues come from not having that plugged in.

    What tranny you using @Bigl350?

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Houston, TX
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    1997 M3 Sedan
    If they’re using the x6031 plug then I would assume the CEL should be wired to work. Mine only had the x20 plug.

    I’m running a T56 from a 2002 Camaro.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Getting a bit annoyed with this over heating issue, While driving and getting on it it's started to go past the 3/4th marker on the gauge. IF i leave the car just idling it will move towards the 3/4ths then the fan kicks on and it brings it back to the middle.

    I have tried bleeding the coolant but I am not sure if there is still air in it, my gauge is bad or something else is bad. I also just have a base tune on the car with the big cam but maybe that's causing some issues??

    Being 110F here in Phoenix I'm sure is not helping lol, I can't wait for my euro tank bracket to come in so i can install that new euro tank and have it self bleed.



    Today I am going to try to bleed it again, I read that you can use the coolant crossover hoses that are on the top of the heads to see if that's a better bleed point.


    I am also ONLY using distilled water for the test, maybe water wetter will work best.


    Full dyno tune is scheduled for July 27th, I need to figure this out before that date

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by BigL350 View Post
    If they’re using the x6031 plug then I would assume the CEL should be wired to work. Mine only had the x20 plug.

    I’m running a T56 from a 2002 Camaro.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    Yeah mine only has the x20 plug and Wiring specialties swears CEL will work lol

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    USA
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    3,241
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    96 328is 6.0L
    Gauges and sensors rarely go bad. You can check both top and bottom radiator hoses to make sure they are pressurized and are hot after thermostat is open. Also if you conncted OBD2, then you can hook up the scanner to read the actual temperature from the GM sensor.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Gauges and sensors rarely go bad. You can check both top and bottom radiator hoses to make sure they are pressurized and are hot after thermostat is open. Also if you conncted OBD2, then you can hook up the scanner to read the actual temperature from the GM sensor.

    Will do Bimerok, I did try getting the info from obd2 scanner but when i try to view the live data while the car is on it gives me "this module is not supported" it works as long as the car is off though ....will order a new scanner and test

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
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    1997 M3 Sedan
    Quote Originally Posted by RulyLSX View Post
    Getting a bit annoyed with this over heating issue, While driving and getting on it it's started to go past the 3/4th marker on the gauge. IF i leave the car just idling it will move towards the 3/4ths then the fan kicks on and it brings it back to the middle.

    I have tried bleeding the coolant but I am not sure if there is still air in it, my gauge is bad or something else is bad. I also just have a base tune on the car with the big cam but maybe that's causing some issues??

    Being 110F here in Phoenix I'm sure is not helping lol, I can't wait for my euro tank bracket to come in so i can install that new euro tank and have it self bleed.



    Today I am going to try to bleed it again, I read that you can use the coolant crossover hoses that are on the top of the heads to see if that's a better bleed point.


    I am also ONLY using distilled water for the test, maybe water wetter will work best.


    Full dyno tune is scheduled for July 27th, I need to figure this out before that date

    - - - Updated - - -




    Yeah mine only has the x20 plug and Wiring specialties swears CEL will work lol
    Yeah, not without a wire connected to it.

    Regarding your overheating issue, I had a similar thing going on and it was because there were no vent/bypass holes in the thermostat. A lot of aftermarket thermostats don’t have them and it prevents hot coolant from touching the thermostatic element so it doesn’t open. There’s a photo in my thread showing the difference. I read about guys having this issue after plugging the heater core ports on the water pump. Coolant temp has been rock solid ever since switching thermostats.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by BigL350 View Post
    Yeah, not without a wire connected to it.

    Regarding your overheating issue, I had a similar thing going on and it was because there were no vent/bypass holes in the thermostat. A lot of aftermarket thermostats don’t have them and it prevents hot coolant from touching the thermostatic element so it doesn’t open. There’s a photo in my thread showing the difference. I read about guys having this issue after plugging the heater core ports on the water pump. Coolant temp has been rock solid ever since switching thermostats.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    hmmm, I just looked at my thermostat order(it came with the housing) and it appears the one i have is motorad which you say in your thread does not have the bypass holes.... I do have the water IN connected to the waterpump for the heater core though.


    Either way im going to rip out that thermostat and confirm if it has the bypass holes,if not i'll get it swapped out tonight! I'll report in shortly haha

  15. #90
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    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Dammit! it has the bypass holes, im still going to go to autozone and pick up another one, see if a lower temp one helps


  16. #91
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    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Well I took out the thermostat and did the boiling water trick, this is as far as it will open.....


  17. #92
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
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    1997 M3 Sedan
    Ah, too bad. Sorry for making you go back in.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  18. #93
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    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigL350 View Post
    Ah, too bad. Sorry for making you go back in.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    haha no worries man, I did run into an issue with the damn housing bolt stripping then when tightening it down the oring got severed... BUT the new 160 tstat is in in there. THe new one I got is a 160 degree and does NOT have those bypass holes, figured it was ok based on your thread since I am running the water IN from the heater core.....


    Anyways, I replaced the coolant and added royal purple water wetter, car is doing something even stranger now, the temp gauge took a dive to the hot side and the fan kicked on for a bit then it just turned off.... I shut the car off and went inside.

    I didn't do a full flush and refill on the tstat change so i'll try that tomorrow and see IF i can monitor the temps from the ls pcm side with a scanner, lastly, I have an extra water temp for the bmw gauge side so im just gonna swap that too to see if it makes any difference, I am not sure why the fan kicked on then turned off after 5 seconds when the bmw gauge was showing it was still in the red.


    BLAH!

  19. #94
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    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Did a full flush today and refilled, bleed etc... still over heating, it gets to about 210 and if i hold revs higher than idle it will keep climbing, fan on the whole time.. At this point i'm not doing anything else until i get the euro tank bracket in and i set that up and see if that makes things better.


    Annoyed but oh well, any other ideas are welcome.






    As far as radiator/fan setup goes, any of you guys running the same setup as me as far as fan goes? All i have is a thin 16" spal mounted directly onto the mishimoto radiator, then i have the ac condensor bolted on and that's it, i didn't add any of the stock shrouds or plastics, i did not connect the stock electric fan either

  20. #95
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Stuttgart, Germany
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    1997 M3 / 5.3
    Why not employ the OEM electric pusher fan? JTR states that the pusher setup with the Volvo fan is sufficient for most applications...it is the route I'm planning...nothing else, just the pusher fan.

    Good Luck on the trouble shooting...

  21. #96
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Why not employ the OEM electric pusher fan? JTR states that the pusher setup with the Volvo fan is sufficient for most applications...it is the route I'm planning...nothing else, just the pusher fan.

    Good Luck on the trouble shooting...

    I didn't go that route simply because I didn't want to look for it and I wanted something quick and easy. After reading more on ls1tech it seems my car is actually running within ls1 normal temps, I never go above 220 even while getting on it and it seems that's fine for the LS engine.

    I do have a pusher fan on the way and i'm going to mount that on the ac condensor and wire it up since my wiringspecialties harness has a connector for 2 fans. While testing It never went over 220 but since that caused it to go to the red on the bmw gauge it freaked me out and I kept shutting it off, going to test more this week and monitor the actual Ls1 pcm temps and see if there really is an issue or not.

  22. #97
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Kansas City
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    11
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    E36 M3 Sedan
    I would recommend that you reinstall all of the stock shrouding to force airflow through the radiator. My set up: 160 tstat, Z3M S54 rad, oem expansion tank, and fan wired to PCM (set to come on at 196 and 200). It works flawlessly and the fan rarely ever kicks into high speed.

  23. #98
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    96 328is 6.0L
    Homm... Something is not right with your gauge... It should be dead center if the temp is within norm even to the point when fan comes on. Could be something with your wiring or wrong sensor? What sensor are you using?
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Homm... Something is not right with your gauge... It should be dead center if the temp is within norm even to the point when fan comes on. Could be something with your wiring or wrong sensor? What sensor are you using?

    Yeah while watching the pcm temp via the live stats from my obd2 scanner it never goes above 220, even as i'm revving it , but the gauge in the cluster just takes a drive into the red area, I actually know exactly when the fans are going to come on because they always come on as soon as the needle is about to hit the red area.

    For sensor I am running OBD1 Coolant Switch from E36 - BOSCH Part# 0280130026. That's the one wiringspecialties recommended I run and it's located in the passenser side rear head.

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by RulyLSX View Post
    ...
    For sensor I am running OBD1 Coolant Switch from E36 - BOSCH Part# 0280130026. That's the one wiringspecialties recommended I run and it's located in the passenser side rear head.
    That's your problem. Since your car is 98 and OBD2, you need to reuse your original 4 pole sensor (only 2 poles are used though). OBD1 sensor is not compatible with OBD2 gauge.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

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