Video of a few revs with coolant flowing!!!
oh my god that sounds SO good, sweet jesus! drooool
Thanks alwaysbored!! glad others like it as well
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Started it up a few times today to let it run for a while with coolant and confirm the fans kick on, all worked out great and no leaks anywhere. I did have a leak from the thermostat housing and long story short the bolts the housing came with were messed up. Replacing the bolts let me tighten it up real good and now it's leak free... for now
Did run into a weird issue, as I let it run for a while i noticed faint smoke coming from the shifter hole... Freaked out a bit and let the car cool off, I got under the car to cut out any of the insulation pad that was touching the exhaust, it wasn't alot but i cut out as much as possible and ensured NONE of it was touching exhaust.
Started it up a few more times and after the car gets warmed up the faint smoke re-appears. ANYONE ever experience this? I'm thinking it's the brand new excaust but it has me worried, i checked every inch of the exhaust piping and nothing is resting on it. Not sure if it's the exhaust or not considering i would think it got hot enough when it was welded to burn off anything....
Typically this is normal after the build. New parts, grease, etc will all smoke a bit for a while and then go away. If you don't see something obvious burning its fine and will go away in a little while.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Awesome build.
Whenever I see builds like this all I can think is
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-Tony
1989 325is
I didn't get to work on it last night but did turn it on a few times, The smoke went away just like Bimerok said, Thanks again man!
Today I did
Bleed the brakes
bleed the clutch
bleed the coolant from air best i could.
I really need to find a solution to having that shroud and coolant expansion tank in the front. Looked at the euro conversion but hate to do that and still have the plastic tank back there. I did order a mishimoto expansion tank for a wrx but not sure if i can fit it yet
ANyways, the car MOVED on it's own today took it for a spin just down the street lol, clutch and brakes felt great. Felt absolutely amazing to feel it move. Slowly but surely it's getting there!
I ordered a couple of coolant expansion tanks to see what would fit best in the euro location. Here is the mishimoto one and still waiting on the other universal one
Last edited by RulyLSX; 06-22-2018 at 12:13 AM.
Don't forget that both BMW and GM has cooling system that is pressure regulated by the cap on the expension tank. If you are changing the expension tanks, you need to make sure the cap on the new tank is also designed to the right pressure setting that is matching to GM.
Last edited by bimerok; 06-22-2018 at 07:12 AM.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
I had some info under my initial LS1 thread. On BMW caps, if you look on the bottom side, there will be pressure rating number in kPa. Original 328 cap caused my waterpump to leak from shaft seal due to exessive pressure. So I found another bimmer cap with lower pressure that was close enough to GM.
Just looked under my hood, I'm using 140 kPa cap, which is around 20PSI
Last edited by bimerok; 06-22-2018 at 03:59 PM.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Today I did the following
-Ran line from brake booster to the rear of the ls6 intake manifold
-Capped any ports not needed on valve covers
-ran vacuum line from ls6 valley cover to intake manifold
-ran vacuum line from throttle body to valve cover
-started messing around with putting on the nose and bumper
-mounted one of the fog lights, i am missing the bracket from the other side so i placed an order for htat
-moved around my intake - Going to the driver side is going to be tricky so i played around with moving it to the passenger side... it still looks like crap and im not even sure the hood will close how i have it but i'll get it running for now and worry about improving the intake later.... I re-read bimeroks thread for a millionth time and saw he had a 90 with a really sharp turn so I ordered that and it works way better than the one i previously had. Going to the passenger side i need extension for maf and iat, i had an IAT extension and placed order for maf.
Fired it up briefly to see how it would run with all the vacuum lines connected, it idles a lot smoother now even with just the base tune my tuner did , before it would kind of bounce all over the place. I did notice that my ABS light is still on and I don't believe power brakes are working... I would of though this would of been fixed after connecting the vacuum to the brake booster that i would have power brakes but i guess not :/
Does anyone know if I need to do anything special for abs after the build s? I only have that turn style connecter plugged in, the one right off the abs and that's it.
Anyways, it was about 110 today in phoenix, didn't take many pictures of all the vacuum lines but I did snap a few of the front end coming together
Last edited by RulyLSX; 06-23-2018 at 11:00 PM.
If you didn't mess with booster check valves and your line is going from booster straight to the back of the manifold, that should work. Granted everything was fine with the brakes prior to swap and they are now bled good.
As far as your ABS light - what did you do in place of e36 traction control solinoid? If you just removed it, this is why. The easiest way to check is to plug it back in and make sure ABS light is off. Then if you want, you can mess with the resistors to replace the solinoid. I just kept mine.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Yes everything was working fine before and I went from the brake booster to intake manifold . I just ordered another booster valve and grommet . I had removed them prior . I’ll replace those and continue bleeding the brakes to see if that gets me back power brakes.
abs light - yeah I just removed it , I don’t even know what it looks like , I’ll have to see if I still have it or if I sold it with the engine stuff . Thank you for the heads up , I’ll search around and see if I can find another one and where the hell it plugs into cause all my bmw harness stuff is gone
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Ok found this thread https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...54#post9444754
ill attempt that later today if I can find a resistor , hopefully I still have this plug
Ok found the plug and ordered a resistor , I’ll try it out tonight
What progress - gives us hope ours will run soon!
The wheels are nice addition to the color...
Will be fun!
Thanks Tim!!
Lil more progress today
cleaned up some of the wiring and zipped tied some i together, still more to go but looking better! Also installed the 140 pressure radiator cap
Bolted down the batter terminal with the bracket to the left instead of that other position some e36's have, also zip tied the wiringspecialties fuse box under the tray thing.
Started putting together the center console pieces to see how the gauges will look and get a look at the shifter position.. As you can see the shifter is no where near center lol . It's up and to the left. I can still shift all gears though. I want to try to find a bracket or something that can move it more to the right and back.
Installed the prosport gauges, I have fuel psi/water temp and oil psi. I am only going to use oil/fuel psi for now, Going to replace the water temp one with something else later, I already have 2 senders for water temp and don't feel like running yet another line.
Replaced the top center vent as my previous one was broken
Another pic of the shifter posiiton
Got the resistors from amazon today and did the tsc resistor mod thing from the DIY thread, I started the car up but the tsc light still came up. I don't know if the resister is just not working or i did a shitty job connecting them together. Here is the plug i put a resistor on, it's the one on the left
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Here is a video of the prosport gauges in action, the amber color matches perfectly with the rest of the interior lights. They are programmable and beep at you when it goes under/over a certain threshold. Since the gauges are mounted low figured this would be a good warning in case i ever run into trouble
Think i figured out the issue with the TSC resistor not working, The kit i thought was of just 10ohm resistors actually has 10-100k ohm resistors in it, long story short the resistor I used was 10kohm, I found AND tested the baggie for 10ohm and will try that out this week to see if that fixes the tsc light
Replaced the resistor today with the 10ohm one I needed, fired her up and the tsc light came on but the abs light went away instantly, i can live with the tsc light on as I read it's suppsoed to do that ! i'll take out the bulb later
Last edited by RulyLSX; 06-26-2018 at 12:47 AM.
Got the oil sender plugged in today
got more of the interior put together
Got my new headlights in and just set them on to get a feel for how it will look, previously i had the 1 piece headlights and I will be switching to the two piece square ones
Picture of the interior coming together, gauges are mounted as well...
--Shifter, as expected it's not centered at all but I can shift to all gears just fine
--gauges, placement SUCKS, i can't even see the top of the gauge from where I set.... luckily they have the audible beep for warnings but i really don't like the placement, I think the kit i bought came with some angle thing so I am going to see if i can angle them upwards later or just scratch this location all together and move them somewhere else
ordered new bulbs to replace the ones that came with the headlights
ordered a new steering wheel going to go with a leather flat bottom one simply cause it looks so nice
Last edited by RulyLSX; 06-27-2018 at 11:43 PM.
Looking great! Enjoy the images...
Got some more done today
--Finished setting the headlights with new bulbs
--put the corner lights on, are these stock? I don't like the pattern to them, Wish they were clear just like the headlights
--Got a bracket in for the shifter, I had ordered the steeda tri ax shifter as it has more of a curve to it and they also sell some bracket which I bought, after testing that other steeda and this hurst the hurst felt and looked better so i just used the bracket and the hurst shifter. It's almsot center perfectly!!!! I put the boot on as well and called it a day with the shifter stuff
-Added the fog lights, they aren't wired and not sure if I will even wire them... I never use them
--I shorted the coolant level and windshield fluid sensors by just connecting them together, putting black electrical tape around them. Now when I turn on the car I get no warnings that the fluids are low
--Took the car for a drive for the first time ever, went and got some gas!! I drove it for for about 10 miles just around close to my house .. I got some weird looks which im guessing is due to not having a hood haha, got on it abit and it felt great
Last edited by RulyLSX; 06-30-2018 at 11:48 PM.
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While driving around and getting on it I noticed the needle started to dive to the right and over heating. The fan is kicking on, It only started going into the red when I was at a stand still, once i started driving it would shoot back to the middle area of temp.
I didn't really spend a lot of time bleeding it for air so im hoping it's just that, I just got the euro tank in the mail today so i'll take care of that next weekend along with a full coolant flush and adding in water wetter
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