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Thread: 2018 LSX into E36 build - 1998 328I

  1. #201
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    3,175
    My Cars
    96 328is 6.0L
    It probable would adress the overheationg, but not something I would add to my car that I use for track.

    Bigger ps cooler = more weight, more area covering radiator, and more heatsoak.

    Not sure how often one needs to remove valve covers to make such a major change to the breaking system just for that. To me it would be so much easier to lower subframe bolts by about half inch if you need to to take valve cover off and the head probably too if you needed to.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  2. #202
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    I do plan to track it but not something built for dedicated track use , I’ll research how to cook it proper . Thanks for the heads up bimerok

    - - - Updated - - -

    Assuming the cobra guys would have the answers

  3. #203
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    361
    My Cars
    2008 M5
    I've had issues with power steering systems anytime I've taken previous autos on a road course. O-ring failure (likely overtemp) to line fractures. Modern sticky rubber put extra load on it. I don't see too many supercharged Cobra's on the circuits...the blower also has issues. KISS is my preference.

    We are interested on how your 210 diff works out...can you say what ball park it will cost for the conversion?

    Thanks.

  4. #204
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    hmmmm ok, will have to rethink this hydro business then, guess i have to decide how much i want to go out to the track... although i know once i take it im gonna be hooked.


    Far as the 210mm conversion, i am not done so i might still incur more cost but so far here's what i got. Keep in mind some of my cost was due to me not having m3 to start with, if you already have an m3 most of what i have i don't believe is needed..

    -First i need to convert my rear end to m3
    --m3 rear end from an e36 i picked up for 200 bucks locally, it included everything from caliper to caliper except the diff


    210mm diff from m3 evo and subframe i paid 1600 for shipped to me from the UK, it included the brackets and bolts

    paid 150 for a new 4 bolt style input flange so I can re-use my jtr flange adapter


    From everything i Have read the diff/carrier will bolt into my us spec car and to my newly acquired m3 rear end

    The only thing I am unsure of is the differential, From reading other threads the 210mm diff is longer so a shorter diff might be needed, it's like 3/4th of an inch longer



    I was trying to find an e46 m3 diff, they also use 210mm and thanks to some advice from wanganstyle that's what I was going to do but coudn't find one locally and the evo option popped up so i pulled the trigger, cost woudl fo been around the same for either option anyways, i like the e46 idea because they come with 3.6x ratio

  5. #205
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    49
    My Cars
    1997 M3/4/5
    Since track use is being brought up, you may consider running an upgraded P/S pump. I used a gen 5 from Turn One for my build. Anything over stock rpm can cause issues.
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  6. #206
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by wbrentr View Post
    Since track use is being brought up, you may consider running an upgraded P/S pump. I used a gen 5 from Turn One for my build. Anything over stock rpm can cause issues.

    i have seen/heard about those before, they worth it?

  7. #207
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    49
    My Cars
    1997 M3/4/5
    Quote Originally Posted by RulyLSX View Post
    i have seen/heard about those before, they worth it?
    Since my engine didn't come with a PS pump (from a 14 Camaro SS w/ electric steering), I justified the extra expense to get something I never had to worry about. I have read some of the stock PS pumps having issues after a day on the track, or autox. I think they come from the higher rpm and load issues. The TurnOne actually flows less, which gets the correct flow at the higher rpms. You will have a little harder time turning at lower rpms though.

    There is an option to send your stock PS pump in, and TurnOne will upgrade it for a reasonable amount.

    Mine isn't running yet, but a buddies is and he swears by it.
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  8. #208
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    3,175
    My Cars
    96 328is 6.0L
    I had TurnOne on my LS1 e36. Huge improvement over OE GM pump, which would sing songs and boil fluid at the track. Turn one got rid of all that. They use underdrive pulley and give you orifice adapter that you drill out to your application. If you follow instructions then you will have zero issues with steering being hard at low speeds. You pretty much drill it in small increments until you like how your steering feels.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  9. #209
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Ok guess turnone is the way to go!!!

    In other news I dropped my rear end today, wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. bought an impact gun and that made a hell of a difference when loosening things. Now I don't feel like a hernia is about to erupt each time im breaking a hard nut/bolt.

    Took me 2 hours to drop the entire thing, spent a lot of time just looking over everything to make sure I didn't pull a cable or something.

    Such a shame I just bought all these nice new bushings and i'm going to get all new ones again for the new rear end.....






    As I was pulling it i realized I need to look into my current coil over set, not sure if they are going to work with the M3 rear end. blah
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 10-05-2018 at 10:00 PM.

  10. #210
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Update:

    -Had a buddy come over and he welded on the RTAB reinforcement plates, I then gave them a quick spray with Krylon spray paint
    -EVO subframe and 210mm diff are in the car


    Right now I am just waiting on DSS to finish my axles and I can put the rest of the rear end back on once they arrive, I think I might be ok to keep running my driveshaft too, it comes out about an inch from the seal of the tranny still... I think that's enough play for it not to bottom out.






  11. #211
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    3,175
    My Cars
    96 328is 6.0L
    Reinforcement plates look good. Curious to see what DSS axels going to look like...

    BTW, when you talk about driveshaft play and bottoming out, when are you expecting that play to occur? Once installed, your driveshaft should not have any relevant movement...
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  12. #212
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Reinforcement plates look good. Curious to see what DSS axels going to look like...

    BTW, when you talk about driveshaft play and bottoming out, when are you expecting that play to occur? Once installed, your driveshaft should not have any relevant movement...

    I am talking about the slip yoke from the transmission side, from reading around it has to go in a certain amount but read that it shoudn't bottom out from the transmission side.

    When bolting up the drive shaft to the differential i have about 1 inch of visible metal from the yoke past the transmission seal. I'll try to get a pic and hopefully that will describe it better lol.

    Sounds like from what you are saying that I am fine either way though

  13. #213
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Here is the amount it sticks out F2E5C3B0-4D43-4E0F-87ED-126210169643.jpg

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