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Thread: 2018 LSX into E36 build - 1998 328I

  1. #151
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Florida
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    393
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    2008 M5
    Ruly: Noticed you removed your heater loop and capped off the ends. I thought LS' needed a loop or cause cooling issues?

    Glad to see an AC install from start to finish.

    Confirm you didn't have to do any special wiring? Just use the OEM compressor wire for trigger?

    AC is not a priority currently, but would like to add back to the car...live in FL so...

    Thanks.

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Ruly: Noticed you removed your heater loop and capped off the ends. I thought LS' needed a loop or cause cooling issues?

    Glad to see an AC install from start to finish.

    Confirm you didn't have to do any special wiring? Just use the OEM compressor wire for trigger?

    AC is not a priority currently, but would like to add back to the car...live in FL so...

    Thanks.

    Well, apparently from what I learned the heating issue and capping the heater ends come from certain thermostats that don't have a little hole in them to let some water through which causes the thermostat to open. I verified mine has those holes so i ran with it and haven't had a single issue. You can see that convo on page 4 of this thread around post #90. I still need to get the darn pictures reposted, i'll shoot for tomorrow. My plan for next weekend is actually to remove the water pump and tap those heater core lines and add in steel plugs so i can hide the caps and the ugly worm clamps lol

    As far as the AC wiring, it was pretty easy, My wiring harness from wiring specialties has a harness for ac and it has the stock connectors for the compressor and the pressure sensor. With this sanden compressor though it obviously doesn't use the stock camaro plug so i cut it and just connected the power wire coming from the harness.

    So What I had to do with wiring is just connect the compressor to the power wire, then plug in the pressure switch and that was it really. Those two are needed, without the pressure switch it would not kick on the compressor when you turn on the AC via inside the car. The pressure switch was added to the high side of the newly made refrigerant lines. If it helps Tim i have included the diagram provided to me from wiring specialties. I can't recall if you are using their harness or making your own but this should help. Screen Shot 2018-08-30 at 8.40.55 PM.png

    - - - Updated - - -

    I plan on taking the car out to the drag strip and with that I ordered an MSD launch controller(2 step) I tested it out yesterday and made a short vid... sounds like a race car haha

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Wired up the 2step permanetly today, wired it to the clutch safety switch

    Clutch safety switch wires
    purple - 12v when key on
    brown/black - gets 12v when clutch is pressed all the way
    brown - always ground


    Ended up wiring the MSD 2 step launch control to the brown/black wire, so when clutch is pressed it activated 2 step


    Tomorrow i'll spend time mounting the unit somewhere on the engine bay and clean up the wiring mess

    - - - Updated - - -

    This is the launch controller(2 step) i used, plugs inline with the coil packs and is activated by a single wire, you can either give it a ground or give it 12v.

    https://www.amazon.com/MSD-Ignition-...msd+2+step+ls1

  4. #154
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    Apr 2012
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    2008 M5
    Sounds like a race car...folks will expect it to run like one!

    Thanks for the AC details...will be helpful as we re-equip ours if and when it drives again.

  5. #155
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    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Took the beast out to the opening night of friday night drags, first time driving the car so hard, first time in over 10 years at the drag strip .... My best of the night was a 13.1 with a 116mph trap speed.


    I tried dumping the clutch off launch control and it resulted in an immediate spin, I made a total of 5-6 passes, eventually just stopped dumping the clutch and reverted to doing a slow roll off the line and gave it more gas as I gained momentum.


    Trap speed was decent, just need it to actually hook on launch. I ordered some drag radials and i'll try again next week. RIP rear end.

    Here is a vid of one of the passes.




  6. #156
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Got some 275/40/17 Nitto 555R drag radials installed.

    Old tires width was 10.23"(255/40/17)
    New tire width is 10.90" (275/40/17)


    New tires fit great, no more rubbing than what I had on the old 255 setup.


    Going to test out the new drag radials at the strip this weekend.

    aedScreenShot20180912at.jpg
    ScreenShot20180912at.jpg
    916ScreenShot20180912at.jpg
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 09-12-2018 at 05:46 PM.

  7. #157
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    Florida
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    2008 M5
    Meaty!

  8. #158
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    Jun 2005
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    Concord, NH
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    08 E90M3; 99 E36M3 Turbo
    Looks like fun. V8 torque is great! And 116 mph is pretty good. When you hook up and it squats off the line those 275s will rub. You will need maximum rear ride height and major clearancing. Flares with the inner liners cut and welded would be best. Hooking up us the hard part. With enough power you snap the 188mm diff output stubs on launch. I assume you have a heavier duty driveshaft; if stock it will twist in two with enough power on launch

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    Looks like fun. V8 torque is great! And 116 mph is pretty good. When you hook up and it squats off the line those 275s will rub. You will need maximum rear ride height and major clearancing. Flares with the inner liners cut and welded would be best. Hooking up us the hard part. With enough power you snap the 188mm diff output stubs on launch. I assume you have a heavier duty driveshaft; if stock it will twist in two with enough power on launch
    Ya I went into the drag radial deal fully knowing something will break, hope it last a few passes on it though haha, if it last at least a couple passes i'll be happy. Ya I have a single piece steel drive shaft

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Been looking at rear end options, it looks like either 210mm diff or ford 8.8. I think I have a good working list of what I am going to need

    -Driveshaft, since the new diff could potentially be longer I will have to get a new length driveshaft
    -Rear trailing arms, hub, spindle, brakes from an M3 e36
    -New m3 type axles


    The only thing I am still unsure about is the speedo, looking at some of the pictures online it doesn't appear that the 210mm has a plug for the e36 speedo sensor. Anyone know how this is done or if It's just located elsewhere on the diff?

  11. #161
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    08 E90M3; 99 E36M3 Turbo
    210 fits and speed sensor transfers over. You need an adapter plate to weld to the subframe. E32 750il 3.15 LSD is the one many use — not sure what is required to fit others. Rally Road sells one. It makes the front mount solid which adds NVH. With a 1 piece DS, you will notice it. A creative person might be able to fabricate a Euro E36M3 style front diff mount. I plan to do that mount at some point. M3 asked bolt to the 210 diff output stubs on the E32 750il diff. Never tried others but I know some big diff output stubs don’t fit the M3 axles.
    Last edited by pbonsalb; 09-13-2018 at 12:35 PM.

  12. #162
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    210 fits and speed sensor transfers over. You need an adapter plate to weld to the subframe. E32 750il 3.15 LSD is the one many use — not sure what is required to fit others. Rally Road sells one. It makes the front mount solid which adds NVH. With a 1 piece DS, you will notice it. A creative person might be able to fabricate a Euro E36M3 style front diff mount. I plan to do that mount at some point. M3 asked bolt to the 210 diff output stubs on the E32 750il diff. Never tried others but I know some big diff output stubs don’t fit the M3 axles.

    Awesome, thank you for this. IT really helps, i have 2 diffs in mind and will probably buy it this week and start prepping for that. Even if my current diff isn't broken yet I want to have a backup ready. Next on my project list is to go turbo so im gonna need the diff sooner or later.

    As far as the m3 axles go, they bolt up to the 210mm diff but are they the correct length to hook up to the wheel side?

  13. #163
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    SF bay area
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    1998 M3 / 2000 S2000

    2018 LSX into E36 build - 1998 328I

    Quote Originally Posted by RulyLSX View Post
    Awesome, thank you for this. IT really helps, i have 2 diffs in mind and will probably buy it this week and start prepping for that. Even if my current diff isn't broken yet I want to have a backup ready. Next on my project list is to go turbo so im gonna need the diff sooner or later.

    As far as the m3 axles go, they bolt up to the 210mm diff but are they the correct length to hook up to the wheel side?


    E36m euro 3.2 has the same axels as our usa 3.2.

    Euro 36m uses 210mm; usdm uses 188

    The x member and diff + driveshaft are the only items changed oem between the 3.2 euro 36m 210mm car and the 3.2 usdm car.

    Driveshaft between the euro car and usdm are not same due to 5/6 speed physical differences.



    Anything 36m fits non m; this is one of the reasons why often the phrase "should have started with an M car" will often be heard.

    You just need an entire donor 4 corners with hubs and arms from a 36m

    The m3 rear trailing arms+ hubs+axels+ brakes are a one or none conversion for non m cars.

    Either you install it all or nothing
    Last edited by wanganstyle; 09-14-2018 at 01:45 PM.
    Billet Original CNC LSD for 188K
    http://www.wanganstyle.com/

    S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471

    E30 M20 2,7L Alpina + Euro E46 320D ZF 6 speed install
    http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110010

  14. #164
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by wanganstyle View Post
    E36m euro 3.2 has the same axels as our usa 3.2.

    Euro 36m uses 210mm; usdm uses 188

    The x member and diff + driveshaft are the only items changed oem between the 3.2 euro 36m 210mm car and the 3.2 usdm car.

    Driveshaft between the euro car and usdm are not same due to 5/6 speed physical differences.



    Anything 36m fits non m; this is one of the reasons why often the phrase "should have started with an M car" will often be heard.

    You just need an entire donor 4 corners with hubs and arms from a 36m

    The m3 rear trailing arms+ hubs+axels+ brakes are a one or none conversion for non m cars.

    Either you install it all or nothing

    Thank you sir, yeah I really wish I would of started with an M car to continue on my quest of making a drag car, but oh well, full m swap of the arms/hubs/axles incoming

  15. #165
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    1998 328I
    kkjh
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 09-14-2018 at 07:03 PM.

  16. #166
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    Mar 2018
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    1998 328I
    Not much to report on from the build, should probably just start up another thread or something but the next items on the list are as follows


    ABS unit
    -Plan to relocate this somewhere, i hate how it's in the way of everything in it's stock location. Planning to move this to the passenger rear or somehow hide it in the dash or something.... more to come on that but I did order another abs unit and new m3 master so i can mock up how it will all fit and have someone make me a brakcet.

    Hydroboost brake kit
    -Working with a guy i was reffered to here to get a hydroboost kit done, waiting on gettng that so i can install and remove the giant brake booster




    210mm diff conversion
    -Found a guy locally that sold me an entire rear end off an m3 car, 200 bucks for everything. I guess he had it in his possesion from a storage container he bought. Anyways, I now have in my possesion rear axles, trailing arms, control arms, subframe, calipers, spindles etc.. all from an 97 m3 car... Pretty sweet deal considering the rear trailing arm alone on ebay was going for 300 bucks each...
    -Still trying to source a large case diff, had a few leads locally to get an e46 diff but they fell through... ebay pricing kills the deal with shipping. Huge shoutout to wanganstyle for being so hopeful, will be using him for sure if i need it rebuilt later

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also ordered some turbo stuff
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 09-22-2018 at 01:27 AM.

  17. #167
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    0FB4A7D0-5F28-410E-9643-FB96EE188AE0.jpg

    Went out to the drag strip on drag radials , blew up on first launch


    rip

  18. #168
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    2008 M5
    The 'hook' is never a good trip.

    What blew up...hopefully (?) just the diff...

  19. #169
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    USA
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    96 328is 6.0L
    Most likely axels is my bet.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  20. #170
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    Not sure what blew up, here is what happened

    Pulled up to waterbox
    2nd gear burn out for 4 seconds
    pulled up to stage
    rev to 3k rpm
    released clutch
    dead hook and something went POP


    Car will barely inch forward on any gear, haven't had a chance to look at it, i'll throw it up on some jack stands today and asses the damage..... I hope it's just the diff, was planning on going 210mm diff anyways ... I just wished it would of held together for a few runs lol.
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 09-23-2018 at 12:32 PM.

  21. #171
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    96 328is 6.0L
    If bearly inches forward then it is axel
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  22. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    If bearly inches forward then it is axel
    You were right




    Driver side axle is toast, passenger one seems ok and spins the driveshaft when i turn the wheel. The driver side one does not.

  23. #173
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    Why does it just creep forward? I would think that with one still turning that it would just spin the single one? Is it a speed sensor thing or a differential thing?

  24. #174
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    Hey rusty, long time lurker here, definitely an inspirational build given how quickly you sorted the swap out.
    Are you going for a 210mm diff? Considered a ford8.8 swap instead? Custom Axles arenít cheap but long term it will probably be cheaper and lighter

  25. #175
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    I would expect you are relying on the limited slip to provide forward movement...depending on its 'break away' may not be enough to drive the car. On Subaru's if you break an axle, you lock the center diff and let the car act as front wheel drive.

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