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Thread: 2018 LSX into E36 build - 1998 328I

  1. #226
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Carlos MN
    Posts
    38
    My Cars
    1999 E36 LS1 1998 TJ LS6
    Just FYI. The older Ford Rangers that have a manual trans have a nice clutch resesvior. I used them on a couple projects. Like $5 at the local salvage.

  2. #227
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    3,194
    My Cars
    96 328is 6.0L
    From doing some research the spring that you removed is both assistant and resistance spring. It provides a bit of resistance at the initial pedal travel and then past about half way it turns into assistance spring. It is best seen when the clutch pedal has no hydrolics connected.

    But if it made your pedal feel good, then its a win.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  3. #228
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    From doing some research the spring that you removed is both assistant and resistance spring. It provides a bit of resistance at the initial pedal travel and then past about half way it turns into assistance spring. It is best seen when the clutch pedal has no hydrolics connected.

    But if it made your pedal feel good, then its a win.
    Ok that makes sense due to that pivot thing it's on, I'm gonna run without it a for a while, so far i'm loving the consistent feeling it has through the whole pedal travel, it's just a tad bit firmer too which I like

  4. #229
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Today I installed a new clutch pedal, this was in part due to my frustration with my clutch issues lol. It's a mason engineering metal clutch pedal to replace the plastic one. It's touted as a "short throw" clutch pedal and it was expensive but reviews I had read were all saying it was totally worth it, best mod ever etc etc ... The feel of the clutch is the same as the plastic one to be honest, it does feel a bit shorter and the alignment is now just level with the brake pedal

    Here is a pic of side by side of the two, link to the details of the pedal here> https://www.masonengineering.net/pro...php?bmw_id=e36


    The cool thing about this all is that I am now a pro at removing/installing the clutch pedal assembly lol, i have done it 4 times now and to install this new metal pedal it took me about 15-20 mins from start to finish


    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by wbrentr View Post
    I dropped my pedals to install a new clutch MC. I ran into something similar as you did. I swear I was missing a part for the clutch spring, so I just removed it entirely hoping it wouldn't change much. I'm glad to hear it makes it better!

    haha glad I am not alone!!! Have you been running without it?
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 11-03-2018 at 10:43 PM.

  5. #230
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Not much to update, right now the thing that is bothering me as I'm driving the car more is the amount of "slop" in the steering, I did find another thread on bimmerforums that some have had slop using the flaming river setup as I have so i'm going to try to figure that out.

    I had my wife move the steering wheel back and forth in the "slop" area looks like everything moves as it should but the slop is in the steering wheel rack?

    Here is the video of the actual wheel slop



    Additionally here is what it looks like at the rack side



    Not sure if I should replace the steering shaft, adjust it or the rack/tie rods. I'm thinking since it's moving all the way to the rack that it's an issue with the rack though, any advice is appreciated.

  6. #231
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Stuttgart, Germany
    Posts
    439
    My Cars
    1997 M3 / 5.3
    I've noticed a bit of slop using Flaming River setup on ours...still unsure if it is much to worry about or what it is caused by. Our slop is nothing like what you are showing in your video though. I almost wonder if the -3 degree camber is causal for our M3...

    Although you could take the opportunity to install a quicker Z3 rack like we did...
    Last edited by Tim Mc; 11-08-2018 at 11:56 PM.

  7. #232
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    I've noticed a bit of slop using Flaming River setup on ours...still unsure if it is much to worry about or what it is caused by. Our slop is nothing like what you are showing in your video though. I almost wonder if the -3 degree camber is causal for our M3...

    Although you could take the opportunity to install a quicker Z3 rack like we did...

    Yeah looks like im gonna get a new rack and replace everything with it will look into the z3 one thanks!

  8. #233
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Updates for this week

    Installed e46 330i front calipers/rotors along with my apex stud conversion kit that has been sitting on my shelve for a while. Took the car out for a spin and noticed the same as others have noticed when doing the upgrade, it has increased the pedal travel for the brakes, feels a bit weird.

    I do have an m3 brake master that i was going to swap in, after removing the NON m brake master i realized that the new one isn't going to fit with my lines..... My lines to brake master are M10 and M12... The m3 one are both m10, DOH!

    I found a thread were a guy recommended some pipe that has m12 on one end and m10 on the other, placed an order for that.... for now the car will be "down" until this line comes in and i can get my brakes working again lol.


    The other thing I have been trying out is to install a water temp gauge onto my stock cluster, I used my prosport water temp gauge that i bought a while back and my old NON m gauge cluster to cut up lol. So far it fits well!!!

    Last edited by RulyLSX; 11-11-2018 at 10:30 AM.

  9. #234
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    162
    My Cars
    1997 M3 Sedan
    The gauge installation looks great.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  10. #235
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by BigL350 View Post
    The gauge installation looks great.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    Thank you! it's coming out better than expected, i did test it out already and everything works!!! Since I confirmed it works the next step is cutting up my m3 gauge cluster and leaving it on permanetly. IT's going to be nice knowing the actual temps

  11. #236
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    This weekend I took the car out to the track again after the 210mm diff swap, made a total of 4 passes, first two passes my clutch was sticking to the floor on shifts, I found out that with my violent clutch stomps the mickey mouse clutch stop i had made from home depot elevator bolt and the metal clutch was causing the "stuck" i would push the clutch in so hard that it would rub up against the metal clutch stop and cause it not to come up.

    After removing the clutch stop the pedal would come back to normal.


    The last two runs were nearly identical, 12.8 time, 2.0 60ft and 110mph trap speed, I am still spinning a lil off the line. I am clutch dumping at 4,000 with the launch control and tires were at 18psi. Time between runs was taking too long so I called it at night and went home. I'll be back out next week and will try launching a lil lower in the rpm range to see if i can improve my 60ft.

    Looks like going from 3.91 ratio to 3.23 on the diff caused me about 6mph at the drag strip

    anywho, here's a vid of the run.

  12. #237
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Not an update to my car but I did have the pleasure of meeting another local guy that has an LS e36!!! Met him through these forums and helped him install my old 3.91 LSD diff into his ride! Let alone the fact that I finally got to see another LS E36 in person other than my own but this one was actually the first e36 built by vorshlag with AC!!! I had seen their build thread of this car a few times so it was really cool to see it in person.

    I loved how quiet it was compared to mine at idle, such a sweet deep rumble, if i wasn't going turbo i would go with his same setup!

    More than anything it was fun wrenching with someone else, made stuff a hell of a lot easier and look forward to meeting up with Brian again!



  13. #238
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Update:

    Been working on cleaning up the engine bay wiring, tucked the harness and reworked the coil/injector wiring, also painted some items black... Intake clamps, maf and throttle body.. also working a different brake booster.

    Before



    After



    New steering rack and cooler, also converted all the lines to AN





    Removed OEM brake booster and started test fitting the smaller diameter booster from a 190e





    --Power steering cooler I used a Derale 13223 Frame Rail Fluid Cooler, it uses -6 an for both in and out ports, the cooler actually lined up perfectly where the existing power steering bolts go... Link to cooler https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    --For the brake booster, it's from a 1987 Mercedes 190e, I took it to a machine shop and they put it on a lathe to slightly enlarge the diameter of the hole were the master cylinder goes, also tapped the vacuum line in it for pipe thread(1/4npt) and have a fitting that goes 1/4npt to -6an... Going to see how that works, could also use -8 i guess if needed, plan is to put a check valve in place then run it to the back of the ls6 intake manifold and hide the hose as nice as possible, right now my hose went over the valve cover and it looks like crap IMO... I don't think i have seen someone use an line for booster vacuum line, hope it works.... worst case scenario is that I scratch the booster plan completely and use the hydroboost. Love how much clearance there is with the smaller booster, makes such a difference!
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 12-17-2018 at 10:40 AM.

  14. #239
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    New booster is in! was a PITA but it's finally in, flipped the booster around as well so the vacuum line is on the opposite side... hope that isn't an issue.

    Did an initial bleed and the breaks feel great, still have air in the lines but the pedal effort required isn't that bad at all, maybe slightly harder than stock.....


  15. #240
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Stuttgart, Germany
    Posts
    439
    My Cars
    1997 M3 / 5.3
    Slick! Certainly looks factory.

    Noticed your valve covers both have oil fills? Intentional? We only have one on the passengerside - unsure if that would help with clearance/clean up.

  16. #241
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Slick! Certainly looks factory.

    Noticed your valve covers both have oil fills? Intentional? We only have one on the passengerside - unsure if that would help with clearance/clean up.
    When I first put the car together I realized after I had everything in place that my valve covers were on the opposite ends, that meant I could only filll it from the rear driver side lol, I didn't have enough clearance to reach the rear driver side bolt to remove that side valve cover so that's how I ended up with what I have now lol.

    Now with the new booster I have plenty of room to correct that which I already have and will be added a smaller cover back there

  17. #242
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    One thing I found out after installing the new booster was that my brake lights weren't working at all. While inspecting the brake light switch it appears that the tab that activates the switch isn't reaching anymore.

    My only guess is that the new brake booster bracket that attaches to the pedal isn't as long as the stock one.... I dind't think to compare the two boosters while they were both out since I didn't see anyone mentioning that when doing this swap.

    I was able to fix the issue for now, I found a wheel weight that you normally put on wheels when balancing and stuck that to the brake switch tab on the pedal... I used a dab of super glue and the brake lights are working again.... Temp fix until i figure something else out



  18. #243
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Haven't updated in a while, car's been running great. I drive it to work roughly once a week 40 miles each way..... Runs like a friggin champ!!! I did have an issue with it back in January though, when i did some wiring clean up i ended up moving the o2 sensor a lil too close to the header and it shorted..... left me dead in the water and I Had to tow the car home lol, when using hte wiring specialties harness I found out that the o2 sensor is branches off the fuel pump wiring, so when that shorted my fuel pump fuse blew!!! Tried replacing it a few times but couldn't get further than a mile before it blew again :/

    I had to order a new o2 plug and fixed the wiring, after that was fixed i was able to correct the issue with the wires resting on the header and the car has been fine ever since!




    Also waiting on the fabricator I will be using to start building my custom turbo kit, looks like we are a few weeks out before that happens though. In the meanwhile I did get new parts that I am excited about

    It's the rally road lid/dual fuel pump hangar kit but I will only be using a single fuel pump for my turbo build... this is the walboro 525, should be enough for my power needs , I am going to put this in place and convert my fuel lines to all AN instead of the clamp setup i have now
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 03-06-2019 at 10:39 PM.

  19. #244
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Aus
    Posts
    24
    My Cars
    328i Manual Coupe
    Nice work on the swap
    Food for thought with your fuel system,if youíre considering adding a second pump or surge tank for track work. Consider adapting a fuel pump assembly from a modern car with a fuel bucket and Venturi pump.
    Iíve been thinking about this for my swap but Iím only just getting started.

  20. #245
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    238
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by octanematty View Post
    Nice work on the swap
    Food for thought with your fuel system,if you’re considering adding a second pump or surge tank for track work. Consider adapting a fuel pump assembly from a modern car with a fuel bucket and Venturi pump.
    I’ve been thinking about this for my swap but I’m only just getting started.

    Awesome, i'll keep that in mind once I attempt the fuel lines, can't wait to be booooosted

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