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Thread: 2018 LSX into E36 build - 1998 328I

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    That's your problem. Since your car is 98 and OBD2, you need to reuse your original 4 pole sensor (only 2 poles are used though). OBD1 sensor is not compatible with OBD2 gauge.


    Hmm, I'll look into getting that connector. I am not sure if the harness will hook up to a 4 prong though, I think it only plugs into a 2 prong.




    I did swap the sensors just now, I had an extra and figured it coudn't hurt. I turned the car on and just let it idle for a long time With the new sensor(same obd1 just a new one) The gauge is more stable it seems... but today it's only 75 degrees instead of 110 when i was testing it before, this time when the needle would go 3/4th's of the way that's when the fans would kick on and it would bring it all the way to the middle of the area.

    The fan kicked on the first time around 204-205 according to the obd scan and turned off at about 200, here is how hot it got and when the fan turned off is where the temp needle is at



    Here is where the needle was while it went from 205ish back to 200





    Then I decided to just hold RPM at 2k and see how hot i could get it and if i could get it to 240 ... for testing purposes lol. I held at ~2000rpm and the temps started rising and rising, It got to about 210ish and then it stopped rising and went the oppositeway

    I coudn't get it to go past 210, not really an apples to apples test but I at least am glad i wasn't overheating as bad the bmw gauge lead me to believe...



    - - - Updated - - -

    one thing i noticed as I was holding the rpms at 2k, the bmw gauge is completely off... While i was holding at 2,000rpm via the obd input the dash was showing I was somewhere around 1000, anyone have a fix for that? I thought I read something about tuning the dash? If you notice at my first two pics my car idles around 1k currently but the dash is closer to 500 lol
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 07-09-2018 at 11:41 PM.

  2. #102
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    Mar 2018
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    1998 328I
    Found another thread about needing to change the ls1 pcm rpm output to 6 cyl, i'll get that done when I get the car dyno tuned on July 27th! \

    Forgot to add that this weekend I also swapped out the fuel pump, I used this fuel pump

    http://www.enjoytechnica.com/product...kit-duplicate/

    The swap was extremely simple and took less than an hour from start to finish. It's getting hot as HELL in Arizona, I think when I was doing this it was about 114F.... I drank a lot of beers but sadly didn't take pictures

    My fuel PSI right now sits idle at 70+, hope that doesn't cause an issue since the fuel regulator is supposed to be 58, I was getting i believe like 60+ with the stock pump. I just looked at it while idling. if I blipped the throttle the PSI would dip down so im hoping it regulates to the 58 range when going WOT
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 07-10-2018 at 02:49 AM.

  3. #103
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    nnj
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    14 Viper, 99M-LSX, GolfR
    Seems like u found your answer for the RPM but yeah its a super easy change in HPtuners for the rpm output signal.

    All of my stock gauges work (sans the mpg thingy). For a reference when the temp gauge on mine hits the first line (the 3/4 mark) toward hot it's running right at about 200*
    Track days @ ApexObsessed.com

  4. #104
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by pMak26 View Post
    Seems like u found your answer for the RPM but yeah its a super easy change in HPtuners for the rpm output signal.

    All of my stock gauges work (sans the mpg thingy). For a reference when the temp gauge on mine hits the first line (the 3/4 mark) toward hot it's running right at about 200*
    Thank you for that gauge info pmak, makes me feel better about the temps and the upcoming dyno tune!

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    96 328is 6.0L
    All you need to do guys is use the correct sensor to the year of your car and the gauge will work the same as with BMW engine.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  6. #106
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    All you need to do guys is use the correct sensor to the year of your car and the gauge will work the same as with BMW engine.
    I believe you Bimerok and have one on the way, the only issue though is my wiring harness from wiring specialties only has two prong and takes that obd1 plug... I looked up pics of the obd2 one and it has a 4 terminal connector. I don't think ti's gonna work but i'll give it a shot! I don't want to cut up my wiring harness either :/

    Do you happen to have a part number for the obd2 one?


    I drove around today, first time since fuel pump and the weather outside was great(80f) got on it pretty good and it felt great, car never got over 205 either


    Also changed out my gauge cluster to an m3 one, before i installed it i removed the TSC light bulb, no more TSC light woohoo!!!


    BUT now i have that stupid tamper light hahahaha, can't catch a win.. I looked up instructions online on how to remove it but it's not working, i go to test 9 and hold it for 4 seconds and it doesn't do anything.. I'll mess with it again later OR see if i can just remove that bulb as well


    I also put in an order for a new steering wheel, went with this one. Comes with airbag, the only difference is i asked the guy to make mine the flat bottom version to give it more of that race car look


  7. #107
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Update: The tamper light was bothering me so I read up on it more, everyone was saying to go into the cluster menu, unlock the options via test 15 then do test 09 while holding the reset button for 4 seconds to reset the mileage to the higher of two locations. I tried this multiple times and it wasn't working.

    I then read that the location of the mileage is stored on the gauge and also on a "code plug" that's like a little cartridge connected unto the back of the cluster... I removed the code plug from my original gauge cluster and moved it to my new m3 gauge cluster, I also noticed the check engine bulb on the new cluster was not even installed haha which according to pelicanparts write up needs to be in location #24. re-installed the gauge cluster and the tamper light is now off! no more annoying random light.

    Still a mystery is that my CEL light still does not even light up when i turn the key to acc position or turn the car on and it's still throwing the code for it,

    I'll do more testing on it tomorrow and see if i can get the bulb for CEL working by confirming the right bulb location with a flashlight and or replacing that bulb i put in... it was new so i doubt it's that, i'm thinking i just put it in the wrong slot.
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 07-11-2018 at 01:17 AM.

  8. #108
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    Mar 2004
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    96 328is 6.0L
    Sounds like you got the wrong wiring harness for OBD1 instead of OBD2. You will not be able to use your connector on the new sensor and would need to switch to a new one by either de-pinning your 2 pins or attaching a new connector altogether. Here is a thread that has pins, part numbers and picture. It is quoted at the bottom of post one. I can't find original where I posted it.
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=Voltage+range

    As for your check engine light, again, if you only have x20 connector then it will never work as OBD2 cars don't have it there. Only OBD1s do. Your car has it in one of the smaller connectors next to it as someone already mentioned. Can't remember code for it - x69 something???
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    FL Gulf Coast
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    1,065
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    ... if you only have x20 connector then it will never work as OBD2 cars don't have it there. Only OBD1s do. Your car has it in one of the smaller connectors next to it as someone already mentioned. Can't remember code for it - x69 something???

  10. #110
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    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Ok check engine light is now working, thank you bigl350 for the initial suggestion and the rest of you for beating it into my stubborn head. I apologize.

    Initially I tried running a wire from the x20 wire that wiringspecialties claims is for the check engine(Pin 8 on x20) to pin 1 on x6031. Nothing happened

    What worked was exactly what bigl350 suggested, I spliced into pin 46 of the red pcm connector and ran a wire to pin 1 wire on the x6031. After running the wire my CEL lights is fully functional and I am now officially cleared of all trouble codes! Not planning on going to emissions but if I did I would pass now

    The VSS one just disappeared, the lean conditions codes cleared after I plugged a vacuum port I had left open.
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 07-11-2018 at 11:58 PM.

  11. #111
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    abc
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 07-11-2018 at 11:50 PM. Reason: dupe

  12. #112
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    Last edited by RulyLSX; 07-11-2018 at 11:53 PM.

  13. #113
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    Update: car will get dyno tuned on July 21st, been taking it out for drives every day just to make sure cooling is all set and it never gets over 210 even in the middle of the afternoon.


    After looking at different radiators and reading up Bimerocks thread on his nicely done double pass rad I ordered the new age hot rods ls e36 radiator, received it today. Really liked the fact that i will be able to run the air filter turned to the passenger side like i had originally planned and this rad fits stock equipment. NO need to custom make anything, it was pricey as hell but it's looks fucking awesome

    It also has a built in tank so no need to run the euro tank anymore.... I'll either hold on to the euro tank i have or try to list it up for sale





    Last edited by RulyLSX; 07-17-2018 at 04:57 PM.

  14. #114
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    1998 328I
    Pics of the new rad installed






  15. #115
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    Filled it up with coolant today and routed the air intake back to the driver side. Drove it around as well, all is well and no leaks!


    Tomorrow I am going to try to put on the hood, any tips out there on how to make this as easy as possible?






  16. #116
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    96 328is 6.0L
    Trick 1 is to align your intake clamp band so it lines up with clamp bolt and doesn't rub through.

    Trick 2 is unless you're planning to pre-drill your hood, you need to at least orient the massive claps on intake so that they don't point up. You really don't need them to be that massive, they are not the ones holding your engine in the bay . Home Depot Racing isle has normal hose clamps of a dalla or so.

    Trick 3 you really need two people to put the hood back on safely and painlessly (unless you want to come up with a hoist rig)

    Sorry for being facetious.

    - - - Updated - - -

    You also might want to orient your hot air intak a bit down as it might interfere with the hood.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  17. #117
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Trick 1 is to align your intake clamp band so it lines up with clamp bolt and doesn't rub through.

    Trick 2 is unless you're planning to pre-drill your hood, you need to at least orient the massive claps on intake so that they don't point up. You really don't need them to be that massive, they are not the ones holding your engine in the bay . Home Depot Racing isle has normal hose clamps of a dalla or so.

    Trick 3 you really need two people to put the hood back on safely and painlessly (unless you want to come up with a hoist rig)

    Sorry for being facetious.

    - - - Updated - - -

    You also might want to orient your hot air intak a bit down as it might interfere with the hood.

    lol yeah figured as much with the hose clamps, sounds like an easy job if all I I need to worry about is lining up the bolts and getting it on. The two person job is gonna be tricky, will have to work on buttering up the wife before I ask her to help me haha

  18. #118
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    2008 M5
    Radiator looks to be a nice piece!

    What 90 degree air intake part are you using? The one immediately off the TB?

    Thanks.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Radiator looks to be a nice piece!

    What 90 degree air intake part are you using? The one immediately off the TB?

    Thanks.

    I am using a 90 that came in the cxracing intake kit, here is the link to the kit I used

    https://www.cxracing.com/AI-LS-UNI

  20. #120
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    Update:

    Fixed up my engine bay and fitted the hood. It was pretty easy although I still need to align it a bit better as it's not perfectly straight..... i'll worry about it later as the hood closes fine and you can't tell that much.

    Took my car to the tuner and car is dialed in, have to fix a hose and my tuner recommended I plug in the VSS sensor to the tranny. here is a vid of the dyno pull


  21. #121
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    Ruly: Thanks for the point toward the air intake...looks to be a clean install.

    On the rollers - the car sounds radical!

    What was the final numbers?

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Ruly: Thanks for the point toward the air intake...looks to be a clean install.

    On the rollers - the car sounds radical!

    What was the final numbers?

    Thank you, it put down 400, torque numbers i'm not sure as the dyno was having issues and didn't report correctly. I'll go to a different dyno at a later date and get actual numbers. All i was really worried about was dialing in the tune.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Today I connected the speed sensor and the code went away and the car is no longer trying to die when i clutch+neutral while coasting... only reason I didn't connect it was because I forgot about it, people said it wasn't needed so I just kinda went with that.

    Last thing to do is fix a vacuum hose that's kinked up and some more interior pieces

    - - - Updated - - -

    Bonus video, my buddy with a cammed srt8 300c wanted a taste of the ls1 . Pulled on him pretty hard, he only took over once i left off


  23. #123
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    Sounds great!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  24. #124
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    1998 328I
    Got my steering wheel today, box was well packaged and as soon as I opened it the smell of fresh leather hits. Thing is absolutely beautiful. Got it installed already too. For my 98 it was completely plug and play. The leather feels great on the hands and it's thicker than stock or so the ad says.



    Last edited by RulyLSX; 07-28-2018 at 12:58 AM.

  25. #125
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    new thing to worry about, my horn isnt' working both with the old and new steering wheel. While pressing the horn on the steering wheel the relay clicks but no horn sound.... new adventure i guess blah

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