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Thread: E34 $1500 or Less Budget LS Swap

  1. #51
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    Crap! I also asked this on Ls1tech, someone said there could be a way to tune around that to where it might eliminate it all togather. But it is a 2 wire hook up that should be easy to splice in. I think despite gearing differences it should not affect anything else. It looks like there is 2 VSS output wires I can eliminate.
    95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
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  2. #52
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    The only way to tune around a lack of VSS is with a cable throttle body, but then you need a different PCM and you need to re-pin some wiring. Why is an ever so slightly different plug going to be such a problem? They actually look compatible to me but even if they weren’t, I can’t see how you couldn’t make it work. You just put a GM engine in a BMW- but this is what’s got you tripped up? C’mon man.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    The only way to tune around a lack of VSS is with a cable throttle body, but then you need a different PCM and you need to re-pin some wiring. Why is an ever so slightly different plug going to be such a problem? They actually look compatible to me but even if they weren’t, I can’t see how you couldn’t make it work. You just put a GM engine in a BMW- but this is what’s got you tripped up? C’mon man.
    There is no problem putting in the plug, all I need is a hammer and I can make anything work lol

    There is one thing I was looking at and it is the low oil sensor. I wonder if it is a simple circuit that just grounds it self amd can trigger the “OIL LEVEL” message on the cluster just by hooking the wire directly to the X20. Probably would not need it but would be cool to keep as much functional I can.
    95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
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  4. #54
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    It’s a magnetic reed switch, just like the coolant level sensor.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    It’s a magnetic reed switch, just like the coolant level sensor.
    So I think I understand what you are saying. So it is a simple 2 wire switch, one to ground and one to the X20 and it should function? I am absolutely inexperienced with electrical components and I am in way over my head. My only electrical experience is basic home owner stuff so please bare with me here. I got the harness mostly clipped of junk and still need to add a few AC related wires to the harness. It is kind of organized and labeled but I am not looming it until the engine is in the car.





    Now the next part of the wire harness is the fuse block. I am looking for feedback on this. Like I said, no experience in electronics so my drafting is probably not proper but I hope it at least portray what I am wanting to do. I am going to have AC, and 2 electric fans. I doubt my AC relay is going to be how it is since I read how the E36 AC request line is hot when AC off and not hot when AC on. I might need to rewire the AC diagram or maybe a NC relay. I don't know, what do yall think?

    I am also not sure what wire gauge to use. I ordered a bunch of 18ga TXL and am thinking of using it on all the wires in the diagram except for the red wires that are from the battery which will more than likely come off the starter lug. What do you yall think those should be?

    Seriously, please critique me on this since I did kind of jump head first into this.

    edit: Where would the starter solenoid go in this and how is it hooked to the car?

    edit: Disregard last question, I forgot the starter solenoid is hooked on a different pin on X20. But I am not sure if the starter solenoid wire needs to be connected to the ignition switch via relay or not.


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    Last edited by XCRN; 02-10-2019 at 01:05 PM.
    95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
    93 E34 525iA Beater with no heater
    VANOS kicked in yo!

  6. #56
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    Sloppy Mechanic has some commonly-used items on his wiki like fuse blocks and such that he likes.

    I'd use 18GA for common 0-5V signals or 12V signals under 1A. 12-14GA for up to 5A. 30A stuff line fan power wires should be 6-8GA, battery stuff should be 2-4GA.

  7. #57
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    Actually I think the oil level sensor is a sender like in a gas tank. Never mind what I said.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laminar View Post
    Sloppy Mechanic has some commonly-used items on his wiki like fuse blocks and such that he likes.

    I'd use 18GA for common 0-5V signals or 12V signals under 1A. 12-14GA for up to 5A. 30A stuff line fan power wires should be 6-8GA, battery stuff should be 2-4GA.
    Real idiot question, but how is it that the red always hot wires are smaller 14ish gauge that connect some of the relays and fuses, yet they are driven from a 1-4 ga battery cable that seems to be sending more than what it can handle. I attatched revision 1 of the diagram and added a starter relay since the GM purple wire seemed thick, I figured it might be wise to have a relay in place. Though for security reasons I may have the supply 30 come from a switched power instead. Would I be able to run 14 ga for the always how from the starter and through out the rest?
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  9. #59
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    For the line coming from PCM 19, does that have enough current to drive four relays, the ignition coils, and the injectors?

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laminar View Post
    For the line coming from PCM 19, does that have enough current to drive four relays, the ignition coils, and the injectors?
    I could be wrong but I thought that was the keyed power going to the PCM not out. All the power to the relays comes through the main originating from the always hot wire.
    95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
    93 E34 525iA Beater with no heater
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  11. #61
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    That makes more sense - I just couldn't find a path from the purple wire to the battery +, but the ignition switch isn't shown.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laminar View Post
    Sloppy Mechanic has some commonly-used items on his wiki like fuse blocks and such that he likes.

    I'd use 18GA for common 0-5V signals or 12V signals under 1A. 12-14GA for up to 5A. 30A stuff line fan power wires should be 6-8GA, battery stuff should be 2-4GA.
    All of this, aside the battery cables, is over kill.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laminar View Post
    That makes more sense - I just couldn't find a path from the purple wire to the battery +, but the ignition switch isn't shown.
    Fair enough, I should have probably added something more than just “X20...” But like I said, 0 experience with electrical much less electrical drafting. I have designed basic hydraulic circuits before and there is a lot of similarities between drafting them.
    95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
    93 E34 525iA Beater with no heater
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  14. #64
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    Got home from work amd started hooking up the 18ga circuits up. I plan on adding 4 injectors to one relay and 4 coils to one relay for switched power. Probably going to get some 14ga for the remaining pink switched wires. Not sure where I wamt to put this in the engine bay yet. I was thinking, if it is not used on the body harness, is the black relay box on the driver wheel arch.
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  15. #65
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    I’m not sure what you mean “drive the coils and injectors” they need relays, they’re not powered by the ignition. Everything should be on relays.

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    I’m not sure what you mean “drive the coils and injectors” they need relays, they’re not powered by the ignition. Everything should be on relays.
    I thought how it worked in the truck was constant power came through the main relay (triggered by ignition switch and ground) and after that to the individual fuse then to the device (H02s, MAF, Coil, etc). Or is that what you meant in your statement, I read it as individual relays per pink circuit.
    95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
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  17. #67
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    As long as they’re on relays. You won’t need to split the injectors up. I did one relay for the injectors, one for the coils, one for the PCM - but PCM relay wasn’t needed, it just was already in the DME box so I made use of it.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    As long as they’re on relays. You won’t need to split the injectors up. I did one relay for the injectors, one for the coils, one for the PCM - but PCM relay wasn’t needed, it just was already in the DME box so I made use of it.
    Im not sure but do they really all need relays? Why would they need individual relays? Looking through both the truck diagram and E34 ETM and it looks like the only relay that the injectors, PCM/DME, coils all only used the main relay.
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  19. #69
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    I’m excited to see what or how you build exhaust manifolds

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreasyE34 View Post
    I’m excited to see what or how you build exhaust manifolds
    I was thinking making the manifolds with thoes in-line air filter thingys, kind of like this!
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  21. #71
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    To figure out if and how many relays you need, you have to add up the amperage of all the circuits supplying the engine (pink wires). You can find that info on www.lt1swap.com. If the total is greater than the amperage rating of the ignition supply circuit from the car (and it will be), divide by 30 (rating of typical automotive relays) and you will have the number of relays you need. I wound up with 3 power supply relays for my LS3 and, IIRC, I divvied up the PS and DS banks of injectors and O2’s between two relays and put the PCM and whatever else was left on the third relay.


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  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigL350 View Post
    To figure out if and how many relays you need, you have to add up the amperage of all the circuits supplying the engine (pink wires). You can find that info on www.lt1swap.com. If the total is greater than the amperage rating of the ignition supply circuit from the car (and it will be), divide by 30 (rating of typical automotive relays) and you will have the number of relays you need. I wound up with 3 power supply relays for my LS3 and, IIRC, I divvied up the PS and DS banks of injectors and O2’s between two relays and put the PCM and whatever else was left on the third relay.


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    I have been using Lt1swap a lot and has been a real help. But I did not see anything about more relays than the fuel pump and main relay for all injectors, coils, O2s, MAF, PCM. He does go over differnt fuses per single or combined circuit but not relays. Would you mind pointing out where on Lt1 the circuit amperages are listed? The link below is what I have been using as a reference.

    http://www.lt1swap.com/fuseblock_obd2port.html
    Last edited by XCRN; 02-15-2019 at 12:30 PM.
    95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
    93 E34 525iA Beater with no heater
    VANOS kicked in yo!

  23. #73
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    http://www.lt1swap.com/2010camaro_underhood_x3.htm

    That’s what I was using for reference. I don’t think the amperage would differ between LS models for injectors, O2 sensors, etc.

    I can post my notes showing how I laid out my fuse/relay box when I get back to civilization next week. I probably should have done that already but I need to clean up the spreadsheet I’ve been using to compile everything.


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  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigL350 View Post
    http://www.lt1swap.com/2010camaro_underhood_x3.htm

    That’s what I was using for reference. I don’t think the amperage would differ between LS models for injectors, O2 sensors, etc.

    I can post my notes showing how I laid out my fuse/relay box when I get back to civilization next week. I probably should have done that already but I need to clean up the spreadsheet I’ve been using to compile everything.


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    That would be awesome if you would not mind!
    95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
    93 E34 525iA Beater with no heater
    VANOS kicked in yo!

  25. #75
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    So I saw a set of Z32 300ZX turbos. Im thinking they are too small for 600whp, but I am also thinking for less than $100 they could go on something stupid if they would not support my goals of 600whp.
    95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
    93 E34 525iA Beater with no heater
    VANOS kicked in yo!

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