95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
I know I keep going back and forth but while it is too cold to do any work on this all I can do is think about things. I could bore the 5.3 aluminum block to 3.898 get a 4” forged crank, 6.125” rods, pistons and have a 383 stroker. I was surprised how...not really cheap, but inexpensive the cranks are. Get me a good set of flowing heads with LS7 valvetrain, lifters, etc. I think the bottom end would be around $2000, not sure on top end but this would break my budget.
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
I would run a stock gen 3 5.3 with valve springs and a sloppy stage 2 cam and be done with it. Matt Happle has proven that 600 hp can be done reliably with that combo.
Unless you just want to be unique, it's a waste of money and time, imho.
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Stroking engines is what people did 50 years ago because they couldn’t figure out how to control the valvetrain in higher revs. We don’t have that problem anymore. We destroke engines now because revs>*
I agree with this a lot, thats why I bought the 4.8. I prefer the smooth idle shouting V8s, and right now I own a 16 Mustang GT and really like the feel of the Coyote and the revs it can produce. Though I can’t say I prefer the noise of it compared to an LS3/7 or the older 5.0 for that matter. Not saying I don’t like it, there are just better options.
The issues with the 3.27” stroke crank is the lack of any aftermarket support. The only rods that are up to the task with a little bit of a safety factor would be Gen 4 rods which are to my surprise very difficult to find.
Stock universal 3.6” stroke would not be too hard to get aftermarket support for. Probably would not be too bad to get to 7K.
However a factory example of a high revving high output engine is the LS7 with a 4” stroke. Just an overbored 383.
I would prefer a overbore setup and that option is still on the table with either 3.27 or 3.6 crank. I think regardless the block is going to be bored to the factory fresh stock LS1/6 3.898 which will leave plenty of cleanup in the future to 3.905 if ever needed which is the stated max overbore on these blocks by a few reputable sources. I do like the idea of running LS7 valvetrain and maybe cam since it clearly works well for higher (for a pushrod V8 anyways) RPM. Just a lot of options and a few more winter nights to ponder on them.
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
Simple would be nice. I think I am going to put the engine side of things on the back burner and focus on getting it on all 4 wheels. I am hopefully going to be picking up the front sub-frame being modified for the rack and pinion this weekend so I can put all the front end back together. Next would be to get all the rear trailing arm and sub frame bushings out and send those out for powder coating since I cannot powder coat things that big at home, yet. It might even be warm enough to actually work on it too which is mostly just getting the old fuel system out. I might even PC the fuel tank if the shop is willing to do that.
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
Better late than never, I hope? Sorry, i've been working nonstop for the last two months. Here you go:
Fuse Box WiringCROPPED.jpg
Note that I'm letting the ECM turn on two of the relays (Powertrain Relay 1 and 2). I don't think it needs to be done that way. You would have verify on your ECM application. You could probably just power those relay coils from ignition like I did with the "Unloader Relay". Anyways, it's installed and working the way shown with the LS3 E38 ECM.
This ain't dead yet! I just spent most of this year paying off debts and got it down to just car and house. Now I should have a little extra cash flow coming into this, the $1500 truck partout budget might have worked, but I have put in too much to make it junky and cut corners. But anyways I think I successfully got the rack and pinion mounting and geometry correct but I need to figure out the steering linkage. I think I will have to end up cutting the shaft on the chassis side further up and get the u joint up there to keep from exceeding 35 degrees. The VW uses a weird spline size, its like a 9/16" x 22 spine and I cannot seem to find any u-joint with that at all. Atlases the BMW being a 17mm x 54 spline I can find after market and have that adapt to more common sizes and also as double joints. For now I just ordered a used VW steering shaft so I can start playing around with that. At least with the LS in there it fits good around that.
Though I did have to raise the engine a little more to clear the rack so I am going to work on new mounts and just weld tabs on top of the rack mount and use poly suspension bushings as isolators. I also started putting the F-body accessories on to check on clearances for that. I will probably go with Corvette high mount after seeing these in place since I want t go low mount turbos. I have plenty of clearance forward with the core support, so now I am thinking getting a shorter same width but deeper radiator so I can run the outlet of an Intercooler from the top center to the intake. I cut out the lower core support since it was kind of pissing me off trying to get the engine and trans in. It would not allow me to roll the hoist in all the way. I will either make it bolt on or just weld it back down the line.
Speaking of intake, some how it fits! I put a board across the fender line and the intake is WELL above it, especially compared to stock.
Yet somehow just barely clears, that hood is very deceiving. Though I might have to make a turn down spacer for the throttle body.
That is all I have really done unfortunately but now I am a little more financially free I can get back at it. My next goals are more of getting it back on wheels. Other than the lots of new suspension parts I need to buy. I still need to get the front sub frame final welded and powder coated, rear sub frame stripped then powder coated, rear trailing arms just need to be powder coated. Everything get powder coated when you have the equipment and it fits in my $40 Craigslist special kitchen oven!
Last edited by XCRN; 08-17-2019 at 11:33 PM.
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
That's great that the hood fits! The outer fenders probably add an inch or two over the inners, right?
About an inch. I did do a test fit with the outers and the top of the throttle was still well above but regardless it works. Just need to get some stuff to make the angled throttle spacer. Apparently I can buy the mounting flange for the 102mm TB so all I need to do is find some 102mm (4.015”) ID tube to mandrel bend.
Today I did get some parts ready for the new mounts, hopefuly Monday will be the rest and I can start mocking up again and final welding.
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
Fun build, keep it coming!
2002 BMW 525i - 6.6L LS Turbo Swap
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Hows it going?
can i buy a set of ls arms and cross member for my e34? lmk cash ready
TL;DR Just buy a LS Swap Kit unless you enjoy losing your garage, economic security, and sanity.
On the plus side, if you go the DIY route you'll get to have a pen pal named hans in the Swiss Alps that you communicate with via smoke signals for hints on EDM transmission adapter plates; you'll appreciate the company after your girlfriend leaves you 🙄💀
Any updates? This has been a great read.
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