E34 $1500 or Less Budget LS Swap

[marshallnoise]

WOW! I was not expecting that. Now that will be different and awesome!

I have called it a SHTF build. Plus, I love the early full size Bronco. 79.

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[XCRN]

I have called it a SHTF build. Plus, I love the early full size Bronco. 79.

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That is my same reasoning for an LS Cherokee I will be doing after this. Just an all around practical vehicle that can go any where it needs on or off the road with plenty of parts lying around everywhere.

[marshallnoise]

That is my same reasoning for an LS Cherokee I will be doing after this. Just an all around practical vehicle that can go any where it needs on or off the road with plenty of parts lying around everywhere.

Great minds!

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[XCRN]

I know I keep going back and forth but while it is too cold to do any work on this all I can do is think about things. I could bore the 5.3 aluminum block to 3.898 get a 4” forged crank, 6.125” rods, pistons and have a 383 stroker. I was surprised how...not really cheap, but inexpensive the cranks are. Get me a good set of flowing heads with LS7 valvetrain, lifters, etc. I think the bottom end would be around $2000, not sure on top end but this would break my budget.

[marshallnoise]

I know I keep going back and forth but while it is too cold to do any work on this all I can do is think about things. I could bore the 5.3 aluminum block to 3.898 get a 4” forged crank, 6.125” rods, pistons and have a 383 stroker. I was surprised how...not really cheap, but inexpensive the cranks are. Get me a good set of flowing heads with LS7 valvetrain, lifters, etc. I think the bottom end would be around $2000, not sure on top end but this would break my budget.

I would run a stock gen 3 5.3 with valve springs and a sloppy stage 2 cam and be done with it. Matt Happle has proven that 600 hp can be done reliably with that combo.

Unless you just want to be unique, it's a waste of money and time, imho.

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[Liquidity]

Stroking engines is what people did 50 years ago because they couldn’t figure out how to control the valvetrain in higher revs. We don’t have that problem anymore. We destroke engines now because revs>*

[XCRN]

Stroking engines is what people did 50 years ago because they couldn’t figure out how to control the valvetrain in higher revs. We don’t have that problem anymore. We destroke engines now because revs>*

I agree with this a lot, thats why I bought the 4.8. I prefer the smooth idle shouting V8s, and right now I own a 16 Mustang GT and really like the feel of the Coyote and the revs it can produce. Though I can’t say I prefer the noise of it compared to an LS3/7 or the older 5.0 for that matter. Not saying I don’t like it, there are just better options.

The issues with the 3.27” stroke crank is the lack of any aftermarket support. The only rods that are up to the task with a little bit of a safety factor would be Gen 4 rods which are to my surprise very difficult to find.

Stock universal 3.6” stroke would not be too hard to get aftermarket support for. Probably would not be too bad to get to 7K.

However a factory example of a high revving high output engine is the LS7 with a 4” stroke. Just an overbored 383.

I would prefer a overbore setup and that option is still on the table with either 3.27 or 3.6 crank. I think regardless the block is going to be bored to the factory fresh stock LS1/6 3.898 which will leave plenty of cleanup in the future to 3.905 if ever needed which is the stated max overbore on these blocks by a few reputable sources. I do like the idea of running LS7 valvetrain and maybe cam since it clearly works well for higher (for a pushrod V8 anyways) RPM. Just a lot of options and a few more winter nights to ponder on them.

[Sleepyhead97]

I would run a stock gen 3 5.3 with valve springs and a sloppy stage 2 cam and be done with it. Matt Happle has proven that 600 hp can be done reliably with that combo.

Unless you just want to be unique, it's a waste of money and time, imho.

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I agree. Keep it simple! If you go the 4.8 route I don't blame you, but what ever you do keep it simple. Moneystarts vaporizing when machine work is called for

[marshallnoise]

I agree. Keep it simple! If you go the 4.8 route I don't blame you, but what ever you do keep it simple. Moneystarts vaporizing when machine work is called for

Most excellent advice here.

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[XCRN]

Simple would be nice. I think I am going to put the engine side of things on the back burner and focus on getting it on all 4 wheels. I am hopefully going to be picking up the front sub-frame being modified for the rack and pinion this weekend so I can put all the front end back together. Next would be to get all the rear trailing arm and sub frame bushings out and send those out for powder coating since I cannot powder coat things that big at home, yet. It might even be warm enough to actually work on it too which is mostly just getting the old fuel system out. I might even PC the fuel tank if the shop is willing to do that.

[BigL350]

That would be awesome if you would not mind!

Better late than never, I hope? Sorry, i've been working nonstop for the last two months. Here you go:
Fuse Box WiringCROPPED.jpg

Note that I'm letting the ECM turn on two of the relays (Powertrain Relay 1 and 2). I don't think it needs to be done that way. You would have verify on your ECM application. You could probably just power those relay coils from ignition like I did with the "Unloader Relay". Anyways, it's installed and working the way shown with the LS3 E38 ECM.

[XCRN]

This ain't dead yet! I just spent most of this year paying off debts and got it down to just car and house. Now I should have a little extra cash flow coming into this, the $1500 truck partout budget might have worked, but I have put in too much to make it junky and cut corners. But anyways I think I successfully got the rack and pinion mounting and geometry correct but I need to figure out the steering linkage. I think I will have to end up cutting the shaft on the chassis side further up and get the u joint up there to keep from exceeding 35 degrees. The VW uses a weird spline size, its like a 9/16" x 22 spine and I cannot seem to find any u-joint with that at all. Atlases the BMW being a 17mm x 54 spline I can find after market and have that adapt to more common sizes and also as double joints. For now I just ordered a used VW steering shaft so I can start playing around with that. At least with the LS in there it fits good around that.




Though I did have to raise the engine a little more to clear the rack so I am going to work on new mounts and just weld tabs on top of the rack mount and use poly suspension bushings as isolators. I also started putting the F-body accessories on to check on clearances for that. I will probably go with Corvette high mount after seeing these in place since I want t go low mount turbos. I have plenty of clearance forward with the core support, so now I am thinking getting a shorter same width but deeper radiator so I can run the outlet of an Intercooler from the top center to the intake. I cut out the lower core support since it was kind of pissing me off trying to get the engine and trans in. It would not allow me to roll the hoist in all the way. I will either make it bolt on or just weld it back down the line.






Speaking of intake, some how it fits! I put a board across the fender line and the intake is WELL above it, especially compared to stock.




Yet somehow just barely clears, that hood is very deceiving. Though I might have to make a turn down spacer for the throttle body.




That is all I have really done unfortunately but now I am a little more financially free I can get back at it. My next goals are more of getting it back on wheels. Other than the lots of new suspension parts I need to buy. I still need to get the front sub frame final welded and powder coated, rear sub frame stripped then powder coated, rear trailing arms just need to be powder coated. Everything get powder coated when you have the equipment and it fits in my $40 Craigslist special kitchen oven!

[Laminar]

That's great that the hood fits! The outer fenders probably add an inch or two over the inners, right?

[XCRN]

That's great that the hood fits! The outer fenders probably add an inch or two over the inners, right?

About an inch. I did do a test fit with the outers and the top of the throttle was still well above but regardless it works. Just need to get some stuff to make the angled throttle spacer. Apparently I can buy the mounting flange for the 102mm TB so all I need to do is find some 102mm (4.015”) ID tube to mandrel bend.

Today I did get some parts ready for the new mounts, hopefuly Monday will be the rest and I can start mocking up again and final welding.

[Lantz]

Fun build, keep it coming!

[Sleepyhead97]

Hows it going?

[omarmarji]

can i buy a set of ls arms and cross member for my e34? lmk cash ready

[Mercedes M3]

TL;DR Just buy a LS Swap Kit unless you enjoy losing your garage, economic security, and sanity.

On the plus side, if you go the DIY route you'll get to have a pen pal named hans in the Swiss Alps that you communicate with via smoke signals for hints on EDM transmission adapter plates; you'll appreciate the company after your girlfriend leaves you 🙄💀

[Matt330LS]

Stroking engines is what people did 50 years ago because they couldn’t figure out how to control the valvetrain in higher revs. We don’t have that problem anymore. We destroke engines now because revs>*

Uh, what? People still run stroker engines because cubic inches win. I can run a 4.8/5.3/6.0 to the same RPM these days and all things being equal cubes win. I have a 408 in my E46 for that reason.

[McKinney]

Any updates? This has been a great read.