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Thread: s52 e46

  1. #51
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    small update

    I finally have a front sway bar on my drift car! I was able to mount it up on the strut after some minor fabrication and machining. I cannot believe the difference. The car now requires a lot more effort to keep it sideways and transitions are super snappy but it is so much faster in drift. I was not expecting that big of a change at all. Got some videos and pictures for you guys.








    other then the sway bar, no major updates. I changed a few things on the wiring harness just to make it more simple and added a fuel level gauge. hoping to drift at Grange (apple valley speedway) near the end of june.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #52
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    Why not hook to the control arm? I hated the jacking forces the sway bar added when connected to the strut.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    Why not hook to the control arm? I hated the jacking forces the sway bar added when connected to the strut.
    are you sure your endlinks weren't binding? I'm using a custom set up with super swivel rod-ends and have zero binding throughout the entire steering angle. Sway bar is much more effective when attached to the strut vs. the control arm. I have yet to experience the "jacking forces" you speak of. The car is definitely more prone to understeer, it's much snappier and harder to get transitions right but i'm willing to sacrifice all of that for more rear grip. the car is insanely fast in drift right now, of course IMO.

  4. #54
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    It binded a little but my car would tip toe at full lock off the ground. Felt so weird.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  5. #55
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    I think it's recommended by SLR to mount it to the control arm and since it would be easy for you to do I'd try it and see if it feels better.
    instagram @andyitslit

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    It binded a little but my car would tip toe at full lock off the ground. Felt so weird.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    where did you attach at the strut?

    I tried flipping my struts like Sean at slr suggested but I couldn't get it to work that way, too much binding. So I just mounted the sway bar to the center of the strut. I'm only copying what I have seen on formula d cars.

    Sway bars are recommended on the control arm only because there is no possible binding issues. Sway bar works differently when mounted to the strut and is much more effective.

  7. #57
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    I welded tabs on my struts in the center position to the strut. At a stand still, if I went to full lock, the front end of the car would lift off the ground. like the car was on its tippy toes. It was so weird in drift.

    I do agree strut mounted is more effective. But just getting a bigger sway bar on the control arm can make up for it. But you've given me lots of things to think about. Strut mounted would work well if I can prevent the binding. I have noticed FD cars like that but I don't get how they do away with that weird front end lifting thing.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    I welded tabs on my struts in the center position to the strut. At a stand still, if I went to full lock, the front end of the car would lift off the ground. like the car was on its tippy toes. It was so weird in drift.

    I do agree strut mounted is more effective. But just getting a bigger sway bar on the control arm can make up for it. But you've given me lots of things to think about. Strut mounted would work well if I can prevent the binding. I have noticed FD cars like that but I don't get how they do away with that weird front end lifting thing.
    I'd love to see pictures of how you welded the tab. I really think you just had binding issues, caster issues or maybe a bit of both.

    Bigger sway on the control arm still isn't nearly as effective then a small bar on the strut IMO.

    Watch how the sway bar gets pulled upwards as im turning in and out. This does not happen when sway bar is connected to the control arm. Imagine what this is doing during drifting. This is really hard for me to explain because internetz, but when the sway bar is being pulled upwards its unloading the other front tire during counter-steer which is then transferring more weight and more grip to the rear of the car. I really hope that makes sense.


  9. #59
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    Iunno maybe I'll copy you. What parts n junk do I need to buy to do this?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    Iunno maybe I'll copy you. What parts n junk do I need to buy to do this?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    I used mcmaster carr for all of the grade 8 hardware and 3/8 super swivel rod ends. the conical mounts for the strut, the misalignment spacers and the adjustment tubes for the rod ends were all custom made. I can make all of this stuff again if needed, just let me know what specs you need or if you want me to just make copies of everything from my car. I am using an e36 sway bar on the e46, it lines up very closely to the center of the strut.

  11. #61
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    If it'll work with the stock E46 bar, I'd go for just the same of what you got. What's the cost?

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    If it'll work with the stock E46 bar, I'd go for just the same of what you got. What's the cost?
    sent you a PM

  13. #63
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    Just installed a brake booster delete/new master cylinder and proportioning valve over the weekend. Sharing it here for anyone else that might want to do the same. It was any easy 50+ pounds off the firewall area and now my brake pedal feels awesome and works like it should. I used all 3/16 hardline with double flare to keep it cheap and simple. you could use all -3an SS line but it gets expensive.

    The output from the proportioning valve is going straight to a tee at the firewall for the rear brake lines. I just ran all new hardline up front, it was easy enough.

    If anyone wants to convert front brake lines to -3an you can just cut and re-flare factory brake lines for 3/8-24 nuts with double flare and use a 3/8-24 inverted flare female to -3an adapters. Then for the brake caliper you can use 10mm-1.0 to -3an adapters. I used 20 inch wilwood SS lines for the front brake lines
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    Last edited by E36M3LX; 06-09-2019 at 11:01 PM.

  14. #64
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    I've been thinking about removing the ABS module in my car. I would prefer to keep the brake booster tho. Why take it out? The booster itself is like 1lb.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    I've been thinking about removing the ABS module in my car. I would prefer to keep the brake booster tho. Why take it out? The booster itself is like 1lb.
    brake boosters just don't belong in race cars. Makes the brake pedal too sensitive. I think it's closer to 15 or 20 pounds and there is also more than one way that they can fail. Boosted brakes feel like poo when there is no booster

  16. #66
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    FYI. If you intend to compete w/ a car that has manual brakes, plan on changing that thing out for a dual pass master cylinder.

  17. #67
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    finally got some more seat time in the e46. my bro and I rented out grange with a friend. 500 bucks for a friday.

    sway bar on the strut is amazing.. check out the forward bite at about the 14 second mark in the video


  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36M3LX View Post
    brake boosters just don't belong in race cars. Makes the brake pedal too sensitive. I think it's closer to 15 or 20 pounds and there is also more than one way that they can fail. Boosted brakes feel like poo when there is no booster
    Really? I feel the opposite actually, when I'm left foot braking my brakes lose all boost, making them essentially unboosted manual brakes. I love it for left foot braking because I can feel what they're doing way better, but when I'm normally braking I rather have the boosted ones. I know in reality I should probably fix the issue but whatever's wrong results in a situation I quite like!
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by beat328i View Post
    FYI. If you intend to compete w/ a car that has manual brakes, plan on changing that thing out for a dual pass master cylinder.
    where do they not allow a single output master?

  20. #70
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    I think fd mandates dual. Its safer in case it fails. Then you lose half your brakes instead of all.

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    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by awp235 View Post
    Really? I feel the opposite actually, when I'm left foot braking my brakes lose all boost, making them essentially unboosted manual brakes. I love it for left foot braking because I can feel what they're doing way better, but when I'm normally braking I rather have the boosted ones. I know in reality I should probably fix the issue but whatever's wrong results in a situation I quite like!
    In reality you probably should fix the issue, but drift car for the win lol

    in my opinion, for a drift car, there is such thing as "good enough". But, you cant ignore the fact that an OE master cylinder is designed to be boosted so its not going to perform like it should when there is no booster. Massive Brakes sells a brake booster eliminator that retains OE master, however you have to change the pivot point of the brake pedal to compensate for the missing booster.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    I think fd mandates dual. Its safer in case it fails. Then you lose half your brakes instead of all.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    FD is dumb lol

    im no engineer so ill just copy/paste what chasebays has to say about single output;

    " A common misconception is to believe this causes a higher risk of failure due to a lack of a back up line should one line fail. Most OEM master cylinders are still single feed internally and have the same assumed “risk” to our Master Cylinder."
    Last edited by E36M3LX; 07-02-2019 at 07:51 PM.

  22. #72
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    here's some more pictures/video from our last drift day



    Attached Images Attached Images

  23. #73
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    pretty cool ending to this build thread; sold the car to chelsea denofa and it is going to be used at his school of drift. focusing my priorities on other things for now.meandchelsea.jpg
    Last edited by E36M3LX; 05-26-2020 at 06:29 PM.

  24. #74
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    priorities? Like building a new drift car?

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  25. #75
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    California
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    2003 BMW E46 330 coupe
    This build is so proper! in the process of this build as well

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