s52 e46

[E36M3LX]

I finally have a front sway bar on my drift car! I was able to mount it up on the strut after some minor fabrication and machining. I cannot believe the difference. The car now requires a lot more effort to keep it sideways and transitions are super snappy but it is so much faster in drift. I was not expecting that big of a change at all. Got some videos and pictures for you guys.








other then the sway bar, no major updates. I changed a few things on the wiring harness just to make it more simple and added a fuel level gauge. hoping to drift at Grange (apple valley speedway) near the end of june.

[protomor]

Why not hook to the control arm? I hated the jacking forces the sway bar added when connected to the strut.

[E36M3LX]

Why not hook to the control arm? I hated the jacking forces the sway bar added when connected to the strut.

are you sure your endlinks weren't binding? I'm using a custom set up with super swivel rod-ends and have zero binding throughout the entire steering angle. Sway bar is much more effective when attached to the strut vs. the control arm. I have yet to experience the "jacking forces" you speak of. The car is definitely more prone to understeer, it's much snappier and harder to get transitions right but i'm willing to sacrifice all of that for more rear grip. the car is insanely fast in drift right now, of course IMO.

[protomor]

It binded a little but my car would tip toe at full lock off the ground. Felt so weird.

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[Press22]

I think it's recommended by SLR to mount it to the control arm and since it would be easy for you to do I'd try it and see if it feels better.

[E36M3LX]

It binded a little but my car would tip toe at full lock off the ground. Felt so weird.

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where did you attach at the strut?

I tried flipping my struts like Sean at slr suggested but I couldn't get it to work that way, too much binding. So I just mounted the sway bar to the center of the strut. I'm only copying what I have seen on formula d cars.

Sway bars are recommended on the control arm only because there is no possible binding issues. Sway bar works differently when mounted to the strut and is much more effective.

[protomor]

I welded tabs on my struts in the center position to the strut. At a stand still, if I went to full lock, the front end of the car would lift off the ground. like the car was on its tippy toes. It was so weird in drift.

I do agree strut mounted is more effective. But just getting a bigger sway bar on the control arm can make up for it. But you've given me lots of things to think about. Strut mounted would work well if I can prevent the binding. I have noticed FD cars like that but I don't get how they do away with that weird front end lifting thing.

[E36M3LX]

I welded tabs on my struts in the center position to the strut. At a stand still, if I went to full lock, the front end of the car would lift off the ground. like the car was on its tippy toes. It was so weird in drift.

I do agree strut mounted is more effective. But just getting a bigger sway bar on the control arm can make up for it. But you've given me lots of things to think about. Strut mounted would work well if I can prevent the binding. I have noticed FD cars like that but I don't get how they do away with that weird front end lifting thing.

I'd love to see pictures of how you welded the tab. I really think you just had binding issues, caster issues or maybe a bit of both.

Bigger sway on the control arm still isn't nearly as effective then a small bar on the strut IMO.

Watch how the sway bar gets pulled upwards as im turning in and out. This does not happen when sway bar is connected to the control arm. Imagine what this is doing during drifting. This is really hard for me to explain because internetz, but when the sway bar is being pulled upwards its unloading the other front tire during counter-steer which is then transferring more weight and more grip to the rear of the car. I really hope that makes sense.

[protomor]

Iunno maybe I'll copy you. What parts n junk do I need to buy to do this?

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[E36M3LX]

Iunno maybe I'll copy you. What parts n junk do I need to buy to do this?

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I used mcmaster carr for all of the grade 8 hardware and 3/8 super swivel rod ends. the conical mounts for the strut, the misalignment spacers and the adjustment tubes for the rod ends were all custom made. I can make all of this stuff again if needed, just let me know what specs you need or if you want me to just make copies of everything from my car. I am using an e36 sway bar on the e46, it lines up very closely to the center of the strut.

[protomor]

If it'll work with the stock E46 bar, I'd go for just the same of what you got. What's the cost?

[E36M3LX]

If it'll work with the stock E46 bar, I'd go for just the same of what you got. What's the cost?

sent you a PM

[E36M3LX]

Just installed a brake booster delete/new master cylinder and proportioning valve over the weekend. Sharing it here for anyone else that might want to do the same. It was any easy 50+ pounds off the firewall area and now my brake pedal feels awesome and works like it should. I used all 3/16 hardline with double flare to keep it cheap and simple. you could use all -3an SS line but it gets expensive.

The output from the proportioning valve is going straight to a tee at the firewall for the rear brake lines. I just ran all new hardline up front, it was easy enough.

If anyone wants to convert front brake lines to -3an you can just cut and re-flare factory brake lines for 3/8-24 nuts with double flare and use a 3/8-24 inverted flare female to -3an adapters. Then for the brake caliper you can use 10mm-1.0 to -3an adapters. I used 20 inch wilwood SS lines for the front brake lines

[protomor]

I've been thinking about removing the ABS module in my car. I would prefer to keep the brake booster tho. Why take it out? The booster itself is like 1lb.

[E36M3LX]

I've been thinking about removing the ABS module in my car. I would prefer to keep the brake booster tho. Why take it out? The booster itself is like 1lb.

brake boosters just don't belong in race cars. Makes the brake pedal too sensitive. I think it's closer to 15 or 20 pounds and there is also more than one way that they can fail. Boosted brakes feel like poo when there is no booster

[beat328i]

FYI. If you intend to compete w/ a car that has manual brakes, plan on changing that thing out for a dual pass master cylinder.

[E36M3LX]

finally got some more seat time in the e46. my bro and I rented out grange with a friend. 500 bucks for a friday.

sway bar on the strut is amazing.. check out the forward bite at about the 14 second mark in the video

[awp235]

brake boosters just don't belong in race cars. Makes the brake pedal too sensitive. I think it's closer to 15 or 20 pounds and there is also more than one way that they can fail. Boosted brakes feel like poo when there is no booster

Really? I feel the opposite actually, when I'm left foot braking my brakes lose all boost, making them essentially unboosted manual brakes. I love it for left foot braking because I can feel what they're doing way better, but when I'm normally braking I rather have the boosted ones. I know in reality I should probably fix the issue but whatever's wrong results in a situation I quite like!

[E36M3LX]

FYI. If you intend to compete w/ a car that has manual brakes, plan on changing that thing out for a dual pass master cylinder.

where do they not allow a single output master?

[protomor]

I think fd mandates dual. Its safer in case it fails. Then you lose half your brakes instead of all.

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[E36M3LX]

Really? I feel the opposite actually, when I'm left foot braking my brakes lose all boost, making them essentially unboosted manual brakes. I love it for left foot braking because I can feel what they're doing way better, but when I'm normally braking I rather have the boosted ones. I know in reality I should probably fix the issue but whatever's wrong results in a situation I quite like!

In reality you probably should fix the issue, but drift car for the win lol

in my opinion, for a drift car, there is such thing as "good enough". But, you cant ignore the fact that an OE master cylinder is designed to be boosted so its not going to perform like it should when there is no booster. Massive Brakes sells a brake booster eliminator that retains OE master, however you have to change the pivot point of the brake pedal to compensate for the missing booster.

- - - Updated - - -

I think fd mandates dual. Its safer in case it fails. Then you lose half your brakes instead of all.

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FD is dumb lol

im no engineer so ill just copy/paste what chasebays has to say about single output;

" A common misconception is to believe this causes a higher risk of failure due to a lack of a back up line should one line fail. Most OEM master cylinders are still single feed internally and have the same assumed “risk” to our Master Cylinder."

[E36M3LX]

here's some more pictures/video from our last drift day

[E36M3LX]

pretty cool ending to this build thread; sold the car to chelsea denofa and it is going to be used at his school of drift. focusing my priorities on other things for now.meandchelsea.jpg

[protomor]

priorities? Like building a new drift car?

[eurobred]

This build is so proper! in the process of this build as well