Yeah I wish you would’ve done more research on the swap lol, you don’t need any sort of custom wiring harness or anything to run the S52 in an E46. I’m running the same engine in my E46 and it’s using the factory wiring harness and factory DME. All you have to run is an Alpina File since the E46 Alpina B3 uses the S52 engine, if you modify the head to accept the dual vanos then you won’t even have to do that it would be plug and play! If you have any questions feel free to PM me.
| BAGGEDE46 |
thanks but no thanks lol if you actually read my thread, you would see that i have no interest in keeping the electronics/wire harness from the e46. i was planning on doing a custom chassis harness regardless of the situation. thanks for the info though, that is really cool and good to know.
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thanks dude! i will be sure to keep this updated.
now that the trunk floor damage is fixed, time to refresh the rear sub-frame. i did all of the sub-frame bushings, diff bushings, outer ball-joints in the trailing arm, trailing arm bracket and bushing, rear lower camber arms, new brakes, wheel bearings and welded the diff.
e46 has very limited options when it comes to fitting a proper clutch-type LSD. you can either spend big bucks on after-market stuff, or swap in an entire e46 m3 rear sub-frame. i chose the broke-bitch option and just welded my diff for now. I will one day want a good LSD back there though. i am curious if anyone has fit a 210mm diff from an e32 like they do in e36.
next is installing all of the secondary handbrake stuff again. i will be sure to share that on this thread since photobucket basically ruined all of my other threads.
IIRC the non M rear is a 188. M3s are 210s but their ring gear has this odd thread pitch to it. I have an E32 open section I might just weld and toss in when I go with the M3 rear. For now though, I also just welded the stock diff. 3.09 or something.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
so for a welded diff for e46 m3, you can use the open section from an e32 with the ring gear from the e46 m?
when i had my e36, my plan was to rebuild the LSD with more clutch packs for 60% lock-up. i think it was only $400 for new clutch packs with the added lock-up. is this not an option with e46 m?
i have a list of e46 differential gear ratios. all of the numbers in blue are manual diff ratios and all the numbers in purple are auto diff ratios.
The E46 M3 diff has a different center section and axle stubs so you'd basically only be using the casing from the M3. You could also pop over the pinion and ring gear. But that's it.
The bad thing is that the E46 M3 diff isn't a regular clutch type LSD so packing it for more lock doesn't work that way. The E36 diff is still a 188 so you can't swap center sections. I think some E32s came clutch type LSD so that is also an option.
It's a pretty hodge podge thing to do. I just welded my 330 diff for now and if I get to the M3 rear and haven't figured it out, I'm gonna toss in my E32 center and weld that.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I have all the info on welding an M3 210mm in my build thread as that is what I run. It works great behind 420whp. And no, you cant do anything to the E46M3 diff, its not a clutch type like the others, its a stupid VLSD and its garbage. The "upgrade" is an OS Giken LSD in the quadruple digits.
Last edited by Novablue454; 04-05-2018 at 04:00 PM.
Thanks for all the info on the e46 differential/LSD options!! good stuff to know.
Here's some pictures of the handbrake install... pretty self-explanatory. I am running e36 m3 calipers and rotors all around, they are required to fit the secondary caliper brackets. The secondary caliper brackets are from massive brakes and ASD handle with wilwood master and calipers. I used a residual pressure valve to help with the feel at the handle. feel free to ask any questions.
Last edited by E36M3LX; 09-11-2018 at 11:29 PM.
I finally got the e46 out to the track. only got about an hour of driving in and my trans got stuck in what i call "no man's land". its been haunting me for a couple years now. i try to downshift from 3rd to 2nd and the shifter looks and feels like it is 2nd, but i am in neutral. super sketchy, almost sent me flying off track a few times now and this time, ended my day way too early. I can usually pop the shifter out of this weird area and get it back into 2nd, but this time it's jammed hard into some weird gear.
What's your hydro setup?
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
check post #33. I'll be more specific; I'm using wilwood dynapro calipers bolted to Massive Brakes secondary caliper brackets, asd handle with wilwood 3/4" master, 2 psi residual pressure valve right after the master and mostly hardline all the way back to 16" SS brake lines. The secondary caliper brackets require me to use e36 m3 calipers and rotors, which just bolt on to the e46 rear trailing arms with no modification.
Wait so you using dynapro secondary calipers and M3 primary calipers? I guess that works.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Last edited by E36M3LX; 09-12-2018 at 11:43 AM.
I agree. The only thing I don't like is that it removes the factory handbrake
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
what do you need that for? They don't work very well for drifting, cables stretch, they can completely fail depending on age and condition and always sucks to service them. If parking on flat, I leave it in gear. If I'm towing, I just chock one of the wheels. And if parking on a hill, just turn the wheel to the curb?
I wanted to share some pictures of what I did for the driveshaft. The center support bearing was moved ~16mm back because of the motorswap. so I installed some riv-nuts and made a couple brackets so I could also use the original studs to help hold it in place, I didn't want to trust the riv-nuts alone to secure the CSB.
After the first track day failure, I needed to replace the trans and decided to go with a shifter that has a reverse gear lock-out. I'm confident I mis-shifted into the reverse gate when I tried downshifting from 3rd to 2nd on the entry at Grange. Of course it happened while I was in tandem and I had to dodge my bro who spun out in front of me and then hope that whoever was behind me wasn't going to hit me. I will be ripping apart the trans to see if anything actually broke and maybe I can simply re-assemble it and get it to work again and keep as a spare.
I got another zf at the junkyard and picked up a shifter made by IRP for all BMW's with the standard zf/getrag transmissions. I got version 3 without the center spring, but it has reverse and 5/6 gear lock-outs. If anyone is curious, the trans was $160 at the junk yard and shifter was $500 shipped from ECS tuning.
I dd my car. I don't trust leaving the car in gear.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
that's all we use, basic wedge-style trailers. we just chock one of the wheels, never had a problem.
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I understand, but that would never give me enough reason to keep the cable-style e-brake. easy enough to just park somewhere flat or turn the wheels to the curb. Why are you daily driving a drift car anyways? Aren't you like 30? lol
My daily is in the shop getting a ton of work done. So DD it is! I also want to keep my track car a sleeper. Cop yesterday (writing me a ticket...) even commented how my car was a "ninja". Can't tell if racist... said "Caucasian" on the ticket.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
[QUOTE=E36M3LX;30104330]that's all we use, basic wedge-style trailers. we just chock one of the wheels, never had a problem.
how do you chock the wheel when you're loading alone and stuck in your car at the top of the trailer holding the brake pedal? My teamates S14 has rolled off the trailer twice due to the motor spinning over (he is dual caliper and was leaving it in gear)
[QUOTE=Novablue454;30104476]well, its definitely not rocket science. we have our chocks bolted to the trailers. Simply drive up over the chock and you're done. Plus this way, I only have to check the tongue weight once because the car goes right back where I originally set the tongue weight.
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haha! he was definitely being racist. sue them for more car parts.
ahhh, good call. I was picturing this style
81IL6X2gyhL._SX466_.jpg
We use the chocks that come with e36's. They are easy to drive over and already have a couple holes in them to make mounting them easy. We put one in the front and one in the back of one of the front wheels. Then use tie downs on all 4 corners.
I don't have my car registered for the street. Legally, I have no choice but to tow it to a parking lot and test it there. So I like loading and unloading of the car to be quick and easy.
We use these tie downs
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