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Thread: Replacing rear subframe bushings

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Replacing rear subframe bushings

    Good morning kind folks of bimmer forum,

    I am wanting to replace my rear subframe bushings on my 2003 530i, can anyone help me do this "the right way?"

    any help is greatly appreciated!

    Part questions:
    1.) any difference meyle vs lemforder?
    2.) is there an advantage to replacing the differential bushing at the same time, or is the setup to reaching these parts somewhat unrelated?

    Tool questions:
    I noticed there is a rental on this forum. I posted a couple weeks ago but have not heard back.
    3.) which tool is best for doing this job? What is the one in the rental? (for the 4 door / sedan)

    Procedure: (Just copy-pasted from older thread to make it easy for future forum searchers)

    "Tools and parts needed: New Subframe Mounts (4), this rental tool set, Floor Jack, Jack Stands, Wheel Chocks, (1) 12mm wrench, 21mm socket and socket wrench, 1/2in Torque Wrench, (1) phillips screw driver to open up the box, Grease (Multipurpose/Hi-Temp/General/Bearing etc), Windex or Soap Water Mix.


    0. Open the tool box. Inspect all pieces of the tool kit and read the instruction card. Ask M5 Jed if there are any questions or concerns.
    1. Find a level ground.
    2. Jack the diff off the ground about 18-20 inches using the diff housing (Avoid touching the diff rear end cover, place the jack an inch or so forward from the back). The higher the car, the easier to use the tool later but make sure your front bumper don't hit the ground.
    2. Place jack stands at the rear jack points near the rear wheels.
    3. Remove the jack and let the car sit on the jack stand. Place wheel chokes in front of front wheels. Check stability of the car. Don't go underneath if the car isn't stable.
    4. Jack the diff up again and have the factory jack point pads barely touching the jack stands. The idea is to support most of the weight by the floor jack at this point.
    5. Unclip the plastic holder of the slash guards. Loosen all four subframe mount bolts for about 2 inches using the 21mm socket.
    6. Lower the jack and let the diff drop with about 0.5 inches left on the bolts.
    7. Remove the 2 driver side bolts (front and rear) then lower the jack enough so there is enough room to install the tool on the top side.
    8. Spray lubrication fluid (PB blaster, 50/50 mix of acetone&power steering fluid, etc) at the top and bottom edges of the subframe mounts.
    9. Install tool per instruction card for mount removal. Make sure the long stud is clean and greased up before use.
    10. Remove both mounts on the driver's side with a 12mm wrench and the supplied 24mm wrench. Wait a few seconds for the mounts to deform back to shape if the nut is too tight to turn.
    10. Once the driver's side mounts are removed, take a few minutes to clean the surrounding subframe carrier.
    11. Spray lubrication fluid (windex, etc) on the new mounts and inner surface of the subframe carrier cylinder. Install tool per instruction card for mount installation.
    12. Line up the arrows on top of the new mount to the front and back of the car (longitudinal). Install the new mounts.
    13. Jack the diff and bring the subframe mounts up near the chassis mounting holes.
    14. Install the subframe mount bolts and plates while having someone to help push the rear wheel to line up the assembly.
    15. Repeat Steps 7-14 for the passenger side mounts.
    16. Tighten all 4 bolts and torque them to 140Nm or 103 lb-ft.
    17. Reinstall the plastic clips.
    18. Make sure nothing is around underneath the car then jack up the diff high enough to remove the jack stand.
    19. Lower the car, remove the wheel chocks and go for a test drive.
    20. Clean all components inside the tool box, put them back where they should be including the instruction card. Ship it to the next guy by USPS Priority Mail Flat Rate Medium Box.
    21. Notify M5 Jed with tracking number.
    "

    Thanks in advance!

    P.s. Sorry if this has been answered before. I tried searching for these, but had very little luck. If this topic has already answered let me know

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    CT
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChickenFood View Post
    Good morning kind folks of bimmer forum,

    I am wanting to replace my rear subframe bushings on my 2003 530i, can anyone help me do this "the right way?"

    any help is greatly appreciated!

    Part questions:
    1.) any difference meyle vs lemforder?
    2.) is there an advantage to replacing the differential bushing at the same time, or is the setup to reaching these parts somewhat unrelated?

    Tool questions:
    I noticed there is a rental on this forum. I posted a couple weeks ago but have not heard back.
    3.) which tool is best for doing this job? What is the one in the rental? (for the 4 door / sedan)

    Procedure: (Just copy-pasted from older thread to make it easy for future forum searchers)

    "Tools and parts needed: New Subframe Mounts (4), this rental tool set, Floor Jack, Jack Stands, Wheel Chocks, (1) 12mm wrench, 21mm socket and socket wrench, 1/2in Torque Wrench, (1) phillips screw driver to open up the box, Grease (Multipurpose/Hi-Temp/General/Bearing etc), Windex or Soap Water Mix.


    0. Open the tool box. Inspect all pieces of the tool kit and read the instruction card. Ask M5 Jed if there are any questions or concerns.
    1. Find a level ground.
    2. Jack the diff off the ground about 18-20 inches using the diff housing (Avoid touching the diff rear end cover, place the jack an inch or so forward from the back). The higher the car, the easier to use the tool later but make sure your front bumper don't hit the ground.
    2. Place jack stands at the rear jack points near the rear wheels.
    3. Remove the jack and let the car sit on the jack stand. Place wheel chokes in front of front wheels. Check stability of the car. Don't go underneath if the car isn't stable.
    4. Jack the diff up again and have the factory jack point pads barely touching the jack stands. The idea is to support most of the weight by the floor jack at this point.
    5. Unclip the plastic holder of the slash guards. Loosen all four subframe mount bolts for about 2 inches using the 21mm socket.
    6. Lower the jack and let the diff drop with about 0.5 inches left on the bolts.
    7. Remove the 2 driver side bolts (front and rear) then lower the jack enough so there is enough room to install the tool on the top side.
    8. Spray lubrication fluid (PB blaster, 50/50 mix of acetone&power steering fluid, etc) at the top and bottom edges of the subframe mounts.
    9. Install tool per instruction card for mount removal. Make sure the long stud is clean and greased up before use.
    10. Remove both mounts on the driver's side with a 12mm wrench and the supplied 24mm wrench. Wait a few seconds for the mounts to deform back to shape if the nut is too tight to turn.
    10. Once the driver's side mounts are removed, take a few minutes to clean the surrounding subframe carrier.
    11. Spray lubrication fluid (windex, etc) on the new mounts and inner surface of the subframe carrier cylinder. Install tool per instruction card for mount installation.
    12. Line up the arrows on top of the new mount to the front and back of the car (longitudinal). Install the new mounts.
    13. Jack the diff and bring the subframe mounts up near the chassis mounting holes.
    14. Install the subframe mount bolts and plates while having someone to help push the rear wheel to line up the assembly.
    15. Repeat Steps 7-14 for the passenger side mounts.
    16. Tighten all 4 bolts and torque them to 140Nm or 103 lb-ft.
    17. Reinstall the plastic clips.
    18. Make sure nothing is around underneath the car then jack up the diff high enough to remove the jack stand.
    19. Lower the car, remove the wheel chocks and go for a test drive.
    20. Clean all components inside the tool box, put them back where they should be including the instruction card. Ship it to the next guy by USPS Priority Mail Flat Rate Medium Box.
    21. Notify M5 Jed with tracking number.
    "

    Thanks in advance!

    P.s. Sorry if this has been answered before. I tried searching for these, but had very little luck. If this topic has already answered let me know
    This has been covered extensively in the E39 touring forum...check it out.

    I installed the Lemforder on mine and am very pleased with the result. I did not do the diff bushings as per my Indy saying mine were ok. however i do have them. Best of luck...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    Bellflower, California
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    2003 BMW 530i
    For those here from google:

    After reviewing the schematics from real oem, seems as though the bushings are a relatively straightforward job which does NOT require removing exhaust and the top strut mounts.

    The differential bushings, however, do require quite a bit more work. Fix one problem at a time

    Bushings only at first.

    Cheers!

  4. #4
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    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Doing my subframe bushings on my 03 540i next week. ordered this tool made for e39 sedans today. $150 but should hopefully save me loads of time
    https://www.bavauto.com/catalog/prod...hoCaPkQAvD_BwE

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdobro22 View Post
    Doing my subframe bushings on my 03 540i next week. ordered this tool made for e39 sedans today. $150 but should hopefully save me loads of time
    https://www.bavauto.com/catalog/prod...hoCaPkQAvD_BwE
    Bavauto is back in business?
    demet

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by demetk View Post
    Bavauto is back in business?
    huh. well nevermind that. i was reading through fourms and stumbled upon this. i had this part in my shopping cart for a week now and i posted that before i was about to place my order. they allow you to go through their website and add parts to your cart but dont allow you to actually buy anything -_-

    - - - Updated - - -

    if i were to take one second and read the giant message on the website i would have known. damn im stupid

  8. #8
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    has anyone actually used this tool for e39 sedans? in the description it only lists that it works for ball joints and rear control arm bushings for the e39.

  9. #9
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    So, why do'nt you replace the whole rear control arm -bushings and ball joint included in the new Lemforder control arm? What would you need this tool for ??

  10. #10
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chedley View Post
    So, why do'nt you replace the whole rear control arm -bushings and ball joint included in the new Lemforder control arm? What would you need this tool for ??
    Chedley....4:05 AM? You haven't had enough coffee yet?
    That tool is for removing/installing the rear subframe bushings that connect the subframe to the body.

    Jdobro22, pretty sure there are a few peeps here that have a better subframe tool that they rent out.
    Last edited by JimLev; 03-28-2019 at 11:20 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChickenFood View Post
    Part questions:
    1.) any difference meyle vs lemforder?
    The Meyle are solid, while the lems are liquid filled like the OE versions. You can probably research the various opinions on each version. I put Meyle in my wagon and have been happy with them.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sienayr View Post
    The Meyle are solid, while the lems are liquid filled like the OE versions. You can probably research the various opinions on each version. I put Meyle in my wagon and have been happy with them.
    I have heard too many complaints about the Meyle control arms and bushings (failures).
    I would stick with OE Lemfoerder or TRW.

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
    I have heard too many complaints about the Meyle control arms and bushings (failures).
    I would stick with OE Lemfoerder or TRW.
    I've heard very few complaints of failures of the Meyle control arms and bushings. Are you discussing the Meyle HD, solid rubber bushings or is the failure at the ball joint end?

  14. #14
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    I used Lemforder bushings, but honestly meyle is fine for a daily driver.

    I have the tool to rent if you want to borrow it. $40 to borrow and send to you in CA.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazy4trains View Post
    I've heard very few complaints of failures of the Meyle control arms and bushings. Are you discussing the Meyle HD, solid rubber bushings or is the failure at the ball joint end?
    Bushings / Rubber stuffs / ball joint stuffs...
    Danny has experience with the failures.

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Olly84 View Post
    I used Lemforder bushings, but honestly meyle is fine for a daily driver.

    I have the tool to rent if you want to borrow it. $40 to borrow and send to you in CA.
    Hi,

    you still rent the subframe bushing tool? I live in Rockland County, NY

    i bought a 2000 BMW 528i wagon. Doing suspension refresh. Next on the list is SF bushings. Already got 4 Meyle HD bushings. Just looking to rent.

    thx
    Ser Guerrero
    Last edited by Chedeng; 04-01-2020 at 08:54 PM.

  17. #17
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    You can check here as well. I rented the tool from this guy.

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...an-AND-Touring

  18. #18
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    You can also purchase your own. They aren't that expensive. Then you can rent yours out to other people.
    https://www.kommentools.com/search?q=BMW+E39+Rear+Suspension+Subframe+Bushing+ Tool+Set
    I do not believe in a risk free society where the thrill of living is traded for the safety of existence. Nick Ienatsch

    The law does NOT determine "right" from "wrong". They are unrelated.

    If you put cheap parts on your car, you will soon have a cheap parts car.

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