Help!!!
Maybe i've gone symptom blind after going over this car for the last 3 weeks. Anyway long story short:-
Original Symptom
Car blew head gasket between pots 3-4
Head checked for warp/leaks/cracks OK
Rebuilt/timed engine with BM tooling for vanos setup.
plugged the fuel lines in backwards and realised after it wouldnt start. (Brain Fart and senior moment!!!!)
replaced fuel pressure regulator in case i buggered it with reverse pressure
Car ran fine for 50 miles or so
New Symptom
From engine cold noticed the car would not change up from 3-4 & 4-5 gear until Eng/Gbox temp was higher. While accelerating up long gradient car had slight hiccup (felt like Fuel Starvation) and recovered, carried on journey and stopped car. Tried to start car while engine in normal temp range and nothing. just cranks over with an attempt to fire occasionally. Let the car cool for 1 hr and it started straight up then within 30 secs started to rough idle until stall. No Start again
Got car home plugged in with INPA and pulled code for bank 2 O2 sensor 1 lean condition. Let car cool right down, cleared code and started car while watching INPA data feed. Both O2 sensors appeared to be working as advertised and no codes so would sumise that the O2 code was a response to something else in the system going south. approx 5 mins after start, rough idle then stall as though the injection system had been shut down/low fuel pressure. No Codes stored, Time for much head scratching!!!!!!
The list
replaced fuel pump (43-50psi constant at the rail even when the car stalls)
Checked injectors (good flow and even spray patterns)
replaced fuel filter
replaced fuel pressure regulator
replaced spark plugs
replaced both O2 sensors (only 2 pre cat sensors on this M52)
rechecked engine timing
swapped coils between bank 1 + 2 (no codes and no change )
replaced cam sensor (Siemens sensor)
Replaced crank sensor (non OEM, Delphi sensor) Ohms out at 820 cold drops to 607 when heated with hair dryer appears to be within 550-800 ish spec
Cleaned ICV
Cleaned MAF (yes used Alchohol IPA only), Checked while running and unplug makes car stumble/recover same when its plugged back in in.
Replaced CCV valve and hoses
replaced eng temp sensor
replaced IAT sensor + voltage check
checked for vacuum leaks only 1 showed up on smoke test (small hole in Valve cover by No6 coil bonding lead (repaired)
As you can see i have replaced / cleaned /checked every part that would affect Air/Fuel ratio except ECU. from what i can see the car appears to stumble with switching from open to closed loop when it uses the O2 sensor input. However i believe that this car has titania wide band heated sensors and the switch between open /close loop happens a lot earlier after startup (within 30 secs-1 min???) so could rule the O2 sensors out as the cause.
Question
1. Am i correct in thinking the cam sensor determines injection pulse/width based on crank sensor/TPS/MAF/IAT input for TDC/RPM ??
2. Are Auto G/Box gear changes determined by RPM data from CKS and wheel speed sensors???
3. Any good parts suppliers for Siemens Crank sensors apart from the OEM main stealers???
without a scope checking the CKS in action is a little awkward. I suspect that the crank sensor may be going open circuit with engine heat as its at the front of the block. However i dont see any codes for the CKS but also suspect they can go intermittent without throwing a code. (anyone experienced this???)
If anyone can see something i have missed that will cause this would appreciate the input.
A very thorough post.
The crank sensor resistance is way wrong; do you still have the old one? (FCP Euro is an excellent supplier for OEM parts, or getbmwparts.com.)
Wait a minute....the crank sensor is up front? Oh no, that's not good. There was a recall on this. The sensor needs to be replaced with the later one for M52 tu engines, located below the starter. The power to that sensor needs to be switched from 5 volts to 12, using an adapter lead......
I'm going to copy that bulletin below, but I'd like to mention that personally, my wild-assed guess is that your MAF is bad. Have you watched data on that while symptoms are manifesting?
Okay, here's the Service Information Bulletin for the recallsorry, attaching the photos is MUCH more difficult) I note that you don't have a code for the crank sensor though, which is why I think that's really not your issue.
Engine Electrical Sy8tems
Bulletin Number
12 10 99
Woodcliff Lake, NJ
July 1999
Product Engineering
This Service Information bulletin supersedes S.I. 12 10 99 dated May 1999 which should be removed and discarded from your S.I. binder.
PERFORM THE PROCEDURE OUTLINED IN THIS SERVICE INFORMATION ON ALL AFFECTED VEHICLES THE NEXT TIME THEY ARE IN THE SHOP FOR MAINTENANCE OR REPAIRS AND ON EVERY AFFECTED VEHICLE PRIOR TO RETAIL.
Changes to this revision are identified by asterisks.
SUBJECT:
Voluntary Emissions Recall Campaign No. 99E-A01
MODEL:
E36 - 323i and 328i with M52 engine produced 6/95 - 12/98
E36 - M3 with 852 engine produced 1/96 - 12/98
E39 - 528i with M52 engine produced 3/96 - 8/98
Z3 - with M52 engine produced 7/96 - 9/98
Z3 - with 852 engine produced 1/98 - 1/99
Situation:
BMW of North America, Inc. has initiated a Voluntary Emission-Recall Campaign to correct vehicles that may have a faulty crankshaft position sensor. A customer notification letter will be sent out by May 1999. This action will address the illumination of the "Check Engine" lamp and the following faults being set in the Engine Control Module (ECM/DME):
Fault Code 83 - Crankshaft position sensor
Fault Code 244 - Crankshaft segment timing
Cause:
Internal failure of the sensor
Affected Vehicles:
This recall involves E36,E39 and Z3 vehicles with M52 and 852 engines which were produced from 6/95 - 1/99.
The procedure given in this bulletin must be performed on all affected vehicles identified on DCS. (A copy of the letter which will be sent to all affected customers in a staggered mailing is attached to this 8.1.)
In order to determine if a specific vehicle is affected by this Recall, it will be necessary to utilize the "Service Menu" of the DCS (Dealer Communication System). Based on the response of the system, either proceed with the corrective action or take no further action.
The Chassis Number Ranges listed below are only for informational purposes and are not to be considered as the only deciding factor.
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Correction:
The crankshaft position sensor needs to be replaced with the same type of sensor that is currently being used on the M52TU engine. Along with replacing the sensor an adapter harness must also be installed in order to supply the sensor with a 12V operating voltage instead of the 5 volts currently being supplied by the DME.
NOTE:
**SOME VEHICLES LISTED IN DCS MAY ALREADY HAVE THE NEW STYLE SENSOR INSTALLED, FOR THESE VEHICLES A CHECK/VERIFICATION WILL ONLY BE NEEDED.**
Procedure:
The following steps must be followed when replacing the original M52 crankshaft sensor with the new M52TU sensor.
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1. Remove the crankshaft position sensor which is located below the starter motor.
Remove the Sensor (1)
**If the sensor currently installed in the vehicle has a connector directly on the sensor which can be disconnected, then the new sensor is already installed. No further action is required and the DCS contact can be closed.**
Note:
Illustration shows location of component with air filter housing and air mass meter removed. It is not necessary to remove these components to perform this repair.
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2. The electrical connection of the crankshaft sensor to the engine harness is located below the intake manifold.
To access this connector, the cap of the oil filter housing (1) should be removed and the oil filter and housing should then be covered to prevent dirt from getting onto the oil filter.
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3. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor (1) from the engine harness.
Note:
This illustration shows the plug connectors with the intake manifold removed. It is not necessary to remove the intake manifold in order to gain access to these connectors and complete this repair.
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4. Remove the fuel rail cover and unplug the VANOS solenoid valve plug connector (2).
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5. Install the new crankshaft position sensor (1) P/N 12 141 709616 and 0-ring P/N 12 14 1 748 398.
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6. Install adapter harness P/N 12 51 4 592 703.
a. Connect (1) to the new crankshaft position sensor.
b. Connect (2) to the engine harness connector which was previously connected to the old crankshaft sensor located below the intake manifold.
c. Connect (3) to the VANOS solenoid valve located on the VANOS unit.
d. Connect (4) to the engine wiring harness connector which previously connected directly to the VANOS solenoid valve.
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7. After the adapter harness has been installed secure the harness lead going to the VANOS solenoid valve (1) to the VANOS oil line with 2 cable ties (3).
Note:
The harness lead going to the VANOS solenoid valve should not be under tension. The harness lead should be able to move.
Parts Information:
Part Number Description Oty.
12 14 1 709 616 Crankshaft position sensor 1
12 51 4 592 703 Adapter harness 1
12 14 1 748 398 O-ring, 17 x 3 1
61 13 1 377 134 Cable tie 2
NOTE:
The early style Crankshaft position sensors are no longer available from the Parts Department.
Any retailer stock of Part Number 12 14 1 744 492 should be returned to your facing PDC using:
Return code: TEC 36
Order and invoice numbers do not need to be provided.
Recall Label Instructions:
After the vehicle has been checked and corrected, obtain a label (SD 92-124) and with a ball point pen print your dealer code (5 digits) on the Recall Completion Label (see illustration). An initial quantity of 100 labels will be sent to all BMW automotive centers. Peel the label from its backing and affix it to the left front strut tower (in the engine compartment) next to the Vehicle Emission Control Label.
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For California centers only it is required by the California Code of Regulations that an executed orange "Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction" certificate (SD92-084, see illustration) be provided to each customer (for vehicles registered in the state of California) once the Recall on their vehicle has been completed.
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Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Agree with the MAF, bad ones will effect shifting
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
appreciate the input guys, I will get the old girl started up again and see what the data shows for the MAF between idle and wide open throttle.
never had issues with front mounted crank sensors here, maybe the weather is cool enough not to cook them.
With the O2 sensors should i be seeing a 1 sec cycle from 1 volt to 4.8 volt on the voltage control in INPA seem to recall last time i started it yesterday it would hang at 4.8 volts (no cycles) suggesting as you have that maybe the MAF indeed is sending duff info and causing the ecu to lean out until it stalls while its trying to get the O2 under control and back in cycle.
started car up again with original CPS & CKS sensors back in.
Have now got an O2 bank 2 code again however this may be as you suggested a problem with the MAF.
INPA shows the MAF at .92 volts at idle and only 2.87 volts open throttle, total air use of the MAF is off the scale at 20.50Kg/h at idle and open throttle.
before i condem the MAF i have peeled back the boot on the MAF plug and can see the insulation on the 4 wires is cracked. May be wise to check the wiring back to the ECU for breaks/high Resistance. Does anyone have reference data for pinouts from ECU plug to MAF.
wires are as follows, not certain which is which if i need to test for ref voltage with ignition on. would assume we have a ground wire (black), feed wire (red), Heater wire (red /yellow) and signal wire (yellow):-
black
red
yellow
red/yellow
Thoughts anyone........
Production date of the car?
Are you sure the right plug is attached to your maf? My wiring diagrams show:
Brown/orange: Ground
Red/White: Hot from Fuse 2 of e-box
Black: Sensor Ground
Yellow: Sensor signal
Recheck your wire colors, see if age has altered them, or if I've got the wrong year (I used '97, but they don't change much), or if the wrong plug is on there. (I really can't imagine how any other plug would reach, and have 4 pins, and plug into the wrong place....BMW doesn't generally do that.
I'll go try another source, to double check.
I would say, absolutely, that the MAF 20 kg/hr at idle proves you've found the problem.
Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 03-18-2018 at 03:11 PM.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Those colors I gave you check out at the other source too. Black goes to pin 7 of the DME, yellow goes to pin 8. Other 2 are 12volts hot and ground.
If it were my car, I'd buy a MAF, and it would be OEM.
Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 03-18-2018 at 03:20 PM.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Thanks Chris, your colors will be correct (my color blindness altered the brown /orange.
Car is a 98 (GT84725), managed to find diagram of what i believe are the pin outs from the ECU 88 pin plug showing pin 7 as hot film sensor ground and pin 8 as hot film sensor signal
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