Hey all. I have my rear right speed sensor pulled out, which effectively disables my stability control systems. For my dual caliper setup, I'm going to have to remove the rear left one. If I remove that one, will I still hold onto my speedometer functions? I need my speedo to work, not only because it's a streeted car, but because anytime I pulled a fuse that disabled the speedo, but ignition got cut at 5k rpm. There must be a workaround, or simply that the speedo operated off the front wheels only?
Looking for clarification- thank you!
I think I've figured out that the left rear does feed the speedo... What if I splice those wires into one of the front sensors? Hmmm.... I bought all this dual caliper stuff, so I'm doing it- I really don't want to screw my car by doing it!
This probably isn't much help since I am not sure of a way to keep your speedo but speaking from the last two cars I've dailyed didn't have working speedo's its not that big a deal to estimate speed by gear and rpm. Get a good GPS speed app for your phone and have fun.
Piner- this could be the way I do it. My main qualm is that when I pulled the fuses to disable the stability controls, I lost my speedo, and I would get ignition cut at 5k rpm because the car didn't actually think it was moving. Can't be having that!
E46? The system has like 8 ways to determine speed. Taking out one sensor will revert it to other methods. Just because the speedo doesn't work, doesn't mean the DME isn't getting a wheel speed calc.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I believe andy sapp had a writeup somewhere about the e46 wheel speed sensors and them cutting ignition / limp modeing if removed
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I found 2 links to the articles and they're both broken
Honestly, I'm going to go ahead and do yolo it. I spent almost $500 on the dual caliper setup all said and done, if it puts the car in limp mode what I'm going to do is splice the rear wires Into the front sensor, effectively giving it the same reading(in theory....) as the front sensor. Then it knows the car is moving at least.
Otherwise i guess I'll look into a custom tune through rpd22 or RK and see if they can make it happen. I'm not sure what other choice I have if I want to go ahead with dual caliper- does no one around here with an e46 run duals?
i have dual's on my e46 but there's an s52 in it and that DME doesn't care, and i don't need a speedo
Course your assumption is that the front setup is the same as the rear (reluctor wheel and all). Which isn't likely. I think the answer is to code out that module. The car has other ways to get speed. I just don't recall how to code it out.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Honestly, I ended up pulling it and running the car through the gears (on stands) and it would bounce off the limiter, so I think it hasn't gone into limp mode. We will see, but my bmw mechanic that works on my 335 said one of his techs knows everything abo0ut coding. So maybe I'll try to get the Speedo to draw from another source if possible, and to code out that particular limp mode.
E46 uses one rear sensor to monitor wheel speed. Don't remember which it is. But it also uses that for a lot of other things. I have removed both because of axle issues and so my inline hydro will function. Also my hydro is run through my DSC distribution block. Currently my speedo does not work, my odometer doesn't accrue mileage, my gas gauge is extremely inaccurate, my auto wipers have a mind of their own, my instant mpg does not work, abs, dsc, and brake light are illuminated, and none of the obc functions that relate to speed or mileage are accurate, if they even work at all. Currently the only way to get around that would be to have someone disable DSC/ABS through programming/coding. Pulling the ABS fuse as stated above will result in a 5000 rpm governor. The only weird solution I've been told to try is to unplug the brake fluid level sensor. The reasoning behind that was simply, if the car thinks it's out of brake fluid the ABS won't be activated. No clue if that's true or not. But would be worth a shot. It would let you retain the speedo for sure.
Edit: realized the dual caliper will make it impossible to run speed sensors. That sucks. But I think you may be SOL. I drive without a speedo. It's not that bad.
Last edited by Jrcanes55; 03-20-2018 at 01:53 PM.
Throwing it out there- For you, my setup how I ran all last season will fit your needs- Put the drivers speed sensor back in. You'll have speedo and odo, but removing the passenger rear sensor kills all stability/ traction / abs control. I've been like that for about 5k miles. I do street drive, so I'm going to try to figure out how to keep my odo working. Going to ask someone who apparently is great at coding. Alternatively, I really think spicing that rear sensor into the front might work.
Promoter- What you're saying is that the Splicing into the front probably wont work, as a result of a different kind of speed sensor?
hello mate,
I've got same problem here due to dual caliber setup, have you resolved the issue ?
regards,
Matt
My solution is "22mph per 1k rpm in 5th gear". I haven/t tried to splice it into the front yet, because I haven't been pulled over for speed yet with no speedo. Must be doing something right! I'd love for m odo to work, so it's on the list for this winter. I have a 3.46 rear end.
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
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