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Thread: Rebuilt engine oil priming

  1. #1
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    Rebuilt engine oil priming

    Not forced induction related but this section seems to have the most engine building discussion so I'll ask here. Is anyone using oil priming systems on freshly build motors? I just wrapped up my engine build and have been generous with assembly lube throughout the build but at this point the engine will be probably be laid up for 6 months or more before I run it. I'm a little nervous about letting the thing sit for a prolonged period before breaking it in. Are there any special precautions I should take? I plan to rotate the crank periodically but will this displace the assembly lube and start doing more harm than good? I've seen pressurized engine priming systems for sale but but have never used one, if there are as beneficial as they claim to be I could rig something up.

    I picked up the motor as a spare for my DD but the gasket and clean up job turned into a stroker project. The engine in my car is running just fine, aside from leaking a bit of oil I just don't have a pressing need to swap it right now.
    Last edited by gdavid; 03-16-2018 at 08:37 AM.

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    Leave it sealed up. Make sure to cover intake and exhaust ports with tape.

    When it comes time to put it in crank it without the fuel pump relay in to build pressure in the system.

    Relay back in, start, idle up to temp, fill cooling system. Turn it off let it cool all the way down while you check for leaks. Top up fluids. I'd change the oil at this point but it's your call. Most material that's coming off happens on the first start.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, I appreciate it.

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    Def's Avatar
    Def is offline Lead Disagreement Eng PE
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    I recommend a tiny amount of ATF (half an ounce or so) in the spark plug holes then turning the engine over a few times to coat the bores. Same thing before starting.

    Then build up oil pressure as above and you're good to crank.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Def View Post
    I recommend a tiny amount of ATF (half an ounce or so) in the spark plug holes then turning the engine over a few times to coat the bores. Same thing before starting.

    Then build up oil pressure as above and you're good to crank.
    That's a tough call; would be okay/beneficial for an engine being laid up that already had its rings seated, but the latest info I've been working off__primarily by ring manufacturers__is you want the bores dry to quickly seat the rings (piston skirts/rings get lightly oiled, but not the bore).

    Assuming it is only going to be six (6+) mos., then just tape the intake/exhaust openings, whether the ports themselves or manifold openings, and get on with the things you want to do to prep for the swap-over.

    At various times, I've employed a couple of different pre-lube routines; first one used an Spridget starter motor couple to a stationary engine's diesel fuel pump. It was very heavy and cumbersome__besides its own considerable mass, you also needed a decent-sized 12 volt battery. I toted it around through a couple of moves, then burdened someone else with it (I encouraged him to use it for an upcoming 1st start of his engine, then moved before he could give it back...).

    Just recently, I put a brand new LS3 crate engine into a '98 M3, and one of the guidelines (to preserve the warranty) in the engine's included paperwork, was to pressurize the oil circuits (and the car's owner is VERY BIG on procedure ) so I picked out a nice pre-luber from Summit and made him buy it for me. It worked very well, and with a variety of fittings/adapters (not all were included) I'd be able to use it on practically any engine that had external access to the oil galley.






  6. #6
    Def's Avatar
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    It's not necessarily to lube the piston rings, it's to make sure you don't get rust on the bores. Even with the ports taped up, you'll get lots of condensation in many parts of the country due to temperature fluctuation.

    A tiny amount of ATF is also going to burn off in no time, probably in just a few engine rotations at idle really. No real difference on seating rings, but it will make sure you aren't running rings along a really rusted bore, which will kill both in short order.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Def View Post
    It's not necessarily to lube the piston rings, it's to make sure you don't get rust on the bores. Even with the ports taped up, you'll get lots of condensation in many parts of the country due to temperature fluctuation.

    A tiny amount of ATF is also going to burn off in no time, probably in just a few engine rotations at idle really. No real difference on seating rings, but it will make sure you aren't running rings along a really rusted bore, which will kill both in short order.
    Yes, the more I thought about it, and as light as ATF is, I doubt it would inhibit quick seating.

    Though I had quoted your comment, I was as much replying to the original poster about his generosity with the assembly lube; I was envisioning the bores being slathered with white lithium grease, and soaking the inverted pistons/rings/rods up to their skirts in cut-open quart oil cans__both were tactics I used on some of my first engine builds (>40 yrs & >130 engines ago)!

    We live and learn

  8. #8
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    I agree with no assembly lube in the bores, that would be a no-no. The ATF is so light it tends to run through the rings within a day or so if it is pooled up in the bore (although you shouldn't put that much in there).

    I've also seen people spray some WD-40 in the bores to try to displace any water and give the bores a coating, but I'm not sure if it will stay for any length of time for storage type conditions.

  9. #9
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    I appreciate hearing the thoughts and no, I didn't slather the cylinder walls with assembly lube or soak the pistons but I did hone the cylinders with an antique 3 stone hone so you are pretty close to picturing my build and old fashioned ways.
    I am coming to the conclusion that the best way to store this engine would be in another project e36, maybe a vert with a bad HG or a cheap ti.

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