E36 M3 eurospec engine

[Nrappa]

So I’m thinking of purchasing an e36 bmw with a manual transmission (doesn’t really matter which trim) the idea is to buy a cheap one and swap the engine out for an e36 m3 engine. I don’t know much about the e36 besides the fact that the m3 engine will practically plug and play into any body style. My question is, will the eurospec m3 engine do the same? The power from the US engine is just too underwhelming for me.

Thanks for any input - a potential e36 owner


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[MisterM52]

Nope, Euro Spec REAL M3 (B30 and B32) motors wont be plug and play, the US SPec E36 M3 was just a hotted up M52, raw deal they gave if you ask me, but still, you are better off looking at US Spec M3's, Euro Spec, specially considering costs, not a good option, and thats not even getting into emissions etc regulations you may face, I dont know whats it like there, but just saying.

Go with a E46 M3 S54 or just throw in a blower or something in there or whatever. Or just stay content with what you got. And since you are thinking of buying the car, dont even bothe upgrading it for a year, you will have a lot of TLC/DIY's to do, and learn about the car, see how you like it, they are nice cars as they are. Trust me. Grab a good one and it will keep you busy for years, then decide what you want to do.

[XnWarden]

Have you driven one yet? They are a ton of fun in stock form. If you want more power your best bet is a turbo kit. The Euro spec swap would end up costing about the same for way less gain

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[pbonsalb]

Plus a Euro motor is 20 years old and you have to import it. The early single vanos 286 hp one is probably easiest. More popular today is the S54 swap from the E46M3 but it’s not cheap. People often spend $10k.

Maybe buy an E46M3 or a 135i or 335i. With a $500 tune a 135i or 335i will keep up with an E90M3.

[notMpowered]

You are going to spend 15k to put a euro s50 into your car by the time you are done. Even an s54 is more cost effective. The b32 are about 8k euros regularly.

[Deus Ex Machina]

You would be better off waiting a few years, enjoying your car, and then importing a real German M3.

[Nrappa]

Hmmm alright, thanks for the help guys. I’m deciding which car I want to get so all of the info helps. I’ve been reading forums like it’s my job for the last 3 days


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[notMpowered]

Have you driven an e36 m3? I find it hard to believe you will find it underwhelming coming from a GTI.
I had a stg 2+ mk5 and even with 50 less HP the m3 is faster than the one wheel front wheel peeling machine. Add all the bolt ons to the s52 and you are in line with the 3.0 eurospec.

[Nrappa]

I drive a MK7.5 with a jb4 tuner so it’s Quicker, and makes more HP and TQ

[pbonsalb]

Stock E36M3 traps 95-100 mph in the quarter. Good for the mid to late 1990s, but not today. With thousands in bolt on mods and tuning, you can add 5 mph. For real power you want an intercooled supercharger or turbocharger, but the parts cost even for used stuff will be $3k to $8k. There are turbo E36M3 with $7k in parts trapping 125mph in the quarter.

It’s still an old car that will be needing more and more work, and the more power you add the more other weak links are exposed. I have broken 2 transmissions, twisted 2 driveshafts, fused 2 clutches, broken 2 differential output stubs, etc.

Starting with a car that makes more power is a great idea for many people. A 135i or 335i with a $500 JB4 piggyback tune will make 350 rwhp and 400 lbs rwtq. It’s a lot of fun—I have one in my heavier 535xi wagon and even that is fun.

[Nrappa]

Stock E36M3 traps 95-100 mph in the quarter. Good for the mid to late 1990s, but not today. With thousands in bolt on mods and tuning, you can add 5 mph. For real power you want an intercooled supercharger or turbocharger, but the parts cost even for used stuff will be $3k to $8k. There are turbo E36M3 with $7k in parts trapping 125mph in the quarter.

It’s still an old car that will be needing more and more work, and the more power you add the more other weak links are exposed. I have broken 2 transmissions, twisted 2 driveshafts, fused 2 clutches, broken 2 differential output stubs, etc.

Starting with a car that makes more power is a great idea for many people. A 135i or 335i with a $500 JB4 piggyback tune will make 350 rwhp and 400 lbs rwtq. It’s a lot of fun—I have one in my heavier 535xi wagon and even that is fun.

Wow yeah see that is why I’m coming on forums before finding a car lol. I really like the e36, I like the way it look, and sounds. I haven’t driven it yet but I’m sure it’s fine

However in new to the tuning scene and I don’t think I have the knowledge or resources to do something like that


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[pbonsalb]

If you can consider $10k engine swaps, you can consider paying a shop to add forced induction to your car.

[wanganstyle]

If you can consider $10k engine swaps, you can consider paying a shop to add forced induction to your car.

Or hiring a coach to help you drop seconds off your lap time / ET if you like driving on circuits / drag strips.

Both improving the nut behind the wheel and forced induction are expensive and effective ways to go from a to b faster (straight line or circuit)

[JEC928]

I haven’t driven it yet but I’m sure it’s fine

Never assume. Driving feel is critical to whether or not a car is right for you.

The E36 chassis has the same core Germanic feeling of solidity and stability as any modern VW chassis, but the M3 is far FAR more of a true analog sportscar driving machine than the modern GTI.

The classic VW driving feel is one of a friendly fun spirit, while the classic BMW driving feel is an absolute command of the road.

I have a mere pedestrian 325is, and despite the low power the M3 suspension bits I added make it a serious and rewarding traffic scapel. The feeling of confidence and control just exudes from the chassis.

Another thing to keep in mind is that age has taken a toll on these classic cars. The interiors are disintegrating and parts are getting hard to find. Maintaining an E36 is a commitment to continuous repairs and impossible-to-resist upgrades, but the payoff is sweet.

[Nrappa]

Never assume. Driving feel is critical to whether or not a car is right for you.

The E36 chassis has the same core Germanic feeling of solidity and stability as any modern VW chassis, but the M3 is far FAR more of a true analog sportscar driving machine than the modern GTI.

The classic VW driving feel is one of a friendly fun spirit, while the classic BMW driving feel is an absolute command of the road.

I have a mere pedestrian 325is, and despite the low power the M3 suspension bits I added make it a serious and rewarding traffic scapel. The feeling of confidence and control just exudes from the chassis.

Another thing to keep in mind is that age has taken a toll on these classic cars. The interiors are disintegrating and parts are getting hard to find. Maintaining an E36 is a commitment to continuous repairs and impossible-to-resist upgrades, but the payoff is sweet.

Well I would obviously drive it before I bought it, the idea is to by a second car to mod and stuff because I’m new to the whole modding scene. I’ve had a couple of cars and done little things to them (brakes and other easy tasks) so that I can have something to learn on, and turn into a track beast at the same time.


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[JEC928]

You definitely have the right idea to keep the project/track car as hobby and not daily. I learned that lesson with RX-7s long ago.

Have you been looking at ads and prices? M3 prices are rising and low-miles not-beat-to-hell cars are getting expensive and rare, which sucks. But the bargain priced 318/325/328 models have significantly softer/weaker suspension, brakes, dif, and motors so if you can swing it definitely get an M3.

[pbonsalb]

Or make the 325/328 a project car and swap M3 parts onto it. Since the suspension in a 20 year old car is worn out, you will be buying new parts even if you buy an M3 unless those parts have already been replaced.

[XnWarden]

Or make the 325/328 a project car and swap M3 parts onto it. Since the suspension in a 20 year old car is worn out, you will be buying new parts even if you buy an M3 unless those parts have already been replaced.

This is the route I went. Best way is to buy an M3 parts car to swap all the parts onto your functioning 3 series. That way you can refurbish the M3 parts at a rate your budget allows for, and appreciate the impact each upgrade has on the driving feel

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[JEC928]

Or make the 325/328 a project car and swap M3 parts onto it. Since the suspension in a 20 year old car is worn out, you will be buying new parts even if you buy an M3 unless those parts have already been replaced.

I advised against it due to my experience with how much more hassle this is for the casual DIY. You're trading the price difference for more work, and just plain giving up horsepower (the main point of OP's initial question).

Example: instead of slapping new pads and rotors on the car you're tracking down used M3 hubs and axles (and paying steep shipping if you can't find them locally), changing the master cylinder to the M3 version, and bleeding the system. So a 2 hour job stretches into 2 weeks if you have a life. It's rewarding for a hobby but every extra hour in the garage is an hour of driving lost... and when you do get to finally drive it you get smoked by your buddy who has an M3.

[pbonsalb]

It’s always more money or more work. Skip the old beat up overpriced E36M3 that needs a bunch of work and a bunch of parts and still is no faster than a V6 Camry or Lincoln Navigator and buy an E46M3 or 135i or 335i or E92M3 . . . .