cool
No e30s again.
Can somebody remind me which of the two ports has the larger diameter fitting?
Image1526518495.083233.jpg
The label on the 4 Seasons re-man compressor is confusing. I will try to get hold of them on Tuesday but does anyone know if this means that there is already 3oz of oil in the compressor or that I must add the oil. I presume the later, the first sentance should have said "This compressor MUST BE precharged with 3oz oil"
Only confusing thing is that when I remove the block off plates to install the ports, I do in fact see oil. (2nd pic)
Just finished my second conversion a couple of weeks ago. The first was for a 89" 325i and it was successful for 3 years. For that project I rebuilt the compressor with new seals, but the shaft seal started leaking in the 3rd year. Sold the car before I fixed that.
The second conversion was for my 91' 318ic. This time I purchased a rebuilt A/C compressor from Autohausaz for around $175. New dryer/pressure switch came with the correct electrical fitting already attached. The hoses were good, and the one high pressure hose that I ordered had the incorrect fittings, so I just used the original hoses, but went through and replaced every oring with the new green ones. While I was under the dash I replaced my heater core which had been dripping for eons, and the Expansion Valve, although they are on different sides of the center console. I didn't replace the $150 condenser and I think that was foolish. The shop that I had recharge the system said that the pressure was a bit higher than they were used to, and it was probably the condenser. Which will cost me at least $165 for the evac and recharge after I replace it. /sigh. Also, I had to swap the V-pulley for the Serpentine pulley that came with the rebuilt compressor. Couldn't find one for my year vehicle. Pretty straight forward swap, just needed my H-press to remove replace the old bearing with the new bearing the unit came with.
One thing I learned from my 325 was that the cooling system was a bit more taxed with the a/c running, so I eventually replaced the radiator and fan clutch. This time I was proactive and replaced the radiator with a new Behr (another reason to swap out the heater core if the system is drained anyway.)
Everything came from Autohausaz. I like Pelican, and their shipping is faster, but they are a bit higher on everything.
EgelhofAC Expansion Valve
P/N: 1268300384OE
1
x
$28.14
BehrRadiator
P/N: 17111469176OE
1
x
$146.84
DensoAC Compressor
P/N: 4711313
1
x
$172.79
SantechAC Conversion Kit; Fittings Kit For Conversion to R134A
P/N: 559807901
1
x
$12.93
BehrHeater Core; Side by Side Inlets and 3 Bolt Flange
P/N: 64118391363
1
x
$53.20
TGKHVAC Pressure Switch; At Receiver Drier Schrader Valve; With Wire
P/N: 64538390971
1
x
$35.71
BehrA/C Receiver Drier
P/N: 64538391025
1
x
$18.87
Genuine BMWElectrical Pin Connector
P/N: BM-61131378400
1
x
$2.88
Four SeasonsA/C Refrigerant Hose
P/N: FS-64538391051
1
x
$74.24
Last edited by rjcaptsean; 05-26-2018 at 09:12 PM.
Sean
A Company that will go to the ends of the Earth for it's people...will find that they can generally pay them 1/10th of an American worker.
It's amazing what people go through to convert their systems to 134A. Fifteen years ago for my 89 325I, I went to Reilly's bought their cheap conversion kit that consisted of new 134a fitting to R12, small can of proper oil, and several cans of 134a. I discharged the system by removing the valve core which blew out a lot of oil, evacuated the system, added the oil, the cans of R134a. I changed out nothing mechanically and it's been working ever since. Have to add a can of R134a every year or two. Gee how much work is that. Been working for 15 years.
Thats how i did my 85 325e and 86 325e, years ago. Never had a problem, either
No e30s again.
Compressors typically have 150cc of oil in them and if it's a 134 compressor it will have PAG. Total system capacity is 250cc so distribute the rest as follows...20cc in the evap and 20 in the condenser,10 in the drier and the rest in the hoses. If you ever replace any of those components add back this same amount (ie +10 in the new drier)
if you properly flushed your system you should have no problem using PAG. If you didn't you may be wasting money.
87 Zinno Cabrio 98k Barn Find. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=268987
87 Lachsilber ETA Time Capsule. bought w 125k from 87yo original owner
Cabrio deck lid & hinge struts (w sleeves) now for sale. See the link below for more info
New "made in Europe" seat shocks. PM for details
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4S confirmed that the compressor is shipped with 3oz of PAG46 in it and needs 6.75oz total therefore 3.75oz PAG46 needs to be added elsewhere to the system.
The new long hose from evap to compresssor i got from four seasons looks like it has a larger connection at the compressor. Did the different brands have different outlets?
Image1528590105.979989.jpg
Sorry somecarguy I missed this request. My understanding is when converting to R134 you need barrier rubber hoses. And, my hoses appeared pretty worn. I took them to a hydraulic supply shop near me. They removed the rubber part of the hoses and installed the barrier hoses. Now, I plan to install everything this weekend so I'll find out if they installed all the ends in the proper orientation. Fingers crossed!
2004 525i Sport, Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual
I have the new condenser installed and will do a comprehensive write up on how I found the procedure to differ from a couple of how tos posted elsewhere. I hit a bit of a snag which is that I don't love the condition of the drier to condenser hose. Luckily it appears to be one of the more generic about 12 inches long with 8.5 mm ends. Is this the type of part I might find as a generic item at a NAPA or similar?
IMG_2853.JPGIMG_2852.JPG
What I have to add to the procedure of replacing the condensor which has been described elsewhere is that the fan mounting gromets can be reused. The push out of the old condensor and with some silicone lube can be made to fit the new one easily.
I found that the oil cooler does not need to be unbolted to fit the new condenser.
All of above pertains to the APDI 7013464 condenser I used which was a 100% direct fit at all attachment points.
I found this procedure to take about 3 hours working almost entirely alone except when neighbor happened to walk by and helped me with the connections as the bumper was going back on.
Lessons learned:
-Like the posted of another how-to I managed to forget to re-apply the push-lock connectors on the wiring as it passes the front of the fan, will come up with a solution.
-I would recommend you replace both hoses that go to the condenser. Of all the hoses these live the hardest life and they will not be fun to replace later.
I finally got to the point of charging my system. I haven't had the chance to drive it on the highway but locally it seems about 90% there. I used two cans (total 24 oz) of R134. Suction side was a little higher than I thought it should be (60 lbs) and the high side a little lower (220 lbs). I'll pick up a thermometer on the way home from work and see what the temperature is at the vents. I expected it to feel a bit colder. More to come...
2004 525i Sport, Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual
The weather is inspiring me to finally finish this project. All I have left is the expansion valve. I’ve read a few tutorials does anyone have words of wisdom on how to replace this most easily?
Has anyone put the compressor above the alternator before? Turbskis are in the way on the passengers side.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
Compressor ports and hoses -
does anyone have the details of the output port thread specifications - have a hose that seems to be cross threaded and wanted to clean up the port (male) and the hose (female) threads - wont seat properly right now ...
Found this website and assume its one of these but not sure which one to get the correct die and tap...https://coldhose.com/fittings/metric...ng-metric.html
thanks
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