Height off ground needed for Clutch Installation

**Alpine 318is** · 03-13-2018, 01:34 PM

I am highly considering picking up a QuickJack lift for my garage. (https://www.quickjack.com/car-lift-s...-car-lift.html). The reason being my M3 needs to have a clutch pretty soon as well as getting some headers installed. Since the shop labor cost for a clutch is around $800-$900 in the Seattle area I am about $400 away from the total cost if I do the work myself.

Because the main reason I will be getting the lift is for the clutch repair I want to make sure that it will lift the car high enough to clear the transmission and such. For those who have done clutches or transmission work what would you say is the lowest comfortable height you need to get the job done.

Thanks!

**NoLastName** · 03-13-2018, 01:55 PM

The higher the better. I'm going off memory here, but I measured once and think my preferred height for a clutch job was close to 24" off the ground. Remember you have to lift the body at least high as the height of the transmission bellhousing plus whatever you're lowering it onto.

**TheJordanWhitte** · 03-13-2018, 01:55 PM

I’ve been really tempted to get a quick jack but it’s not that far off in price from a two post lift, but the big advantage of the quick jack is it’s not permanent...

But to try and help with your question... I’ve watched a few videos of people doing clutch jobs with a quick jack just fine.

**pbonsalb** · 03-13-2018, 02:42 PM

I think a quickjack would be fine for a clutch job. I did them on jack stands that were a little lower. A lift is obviously easiest since then you are not on your back. Max Jax is moveable if it would work for you and goes to 48”.

**JitteryJoe** · 03-13-2018, 03:36 PM

I have one of these and there is plenty of clearance.
http://www.ezcarlift.com/

I've also done a clutch job using Harbor Freight 6 ton jack stands. They provide enough lift as well at a lot less cost.

**th3turk** · 03-13-2018, 03:39 PM

Hope this gives you a rough idea of height, I’ve never actually measured how night I got the car up but it’s totally doable on jack stands. Ideally the higher the better tho

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**bimma360** · 03-13-2018, 04:42 PM

Slightly unrelated, but I am going the crazy route and just pulling the entire motor out when I do my clutch shortly. I'll be able to address some seals and gaskets on the motor anyway, and I'd much rather just do the whole ting in comfort even If I loose a day taking out the motor.

**NoLastName** · 03-13-2018, 04:52 PM

Originally Posted by bimma360

Slightly unrelated, but I am going the crazy route and just pulling the entire motor out when I do my clutch shortly. I'll be able to address some seals and gaskets on the motor anyway, and I'd much rather just do the whole ting in comfort even If I loose a day taking out the motor.

I've done this a couple times myself. Things are so much easier to access and you can clean everything too. If you plan to pull the engine and transmission out through the hood as a unit, the body needs to be very high off the ground or else the tail of the transmission hits. The angle to pull out of the engine bay is quite steep. Also make sure you don't get everything loose and the engine hanging in the hoist only to discover you didn't leave yourself enough ceiling clearance... lol.

**JitteryJoe** · 03-13-2018, 04:54 PM

Originally Posted by bimma360

Slightly unrelated, but I am going the crazy route and just pulling the entire motor out when I do my clutch shortly. I'll be able to address some seals and gaskets on the motor anyway, and I'd much rather just do the whole ting in comfort even If I loose a day taking out the motor.

If it just costs you an extra day I'll be very impressed. I can see if you have done it a few times you might be able to get it done in a day, but no way I could even though I have now done it once. Just so much stuff that has to be cleared out of the way.

**pbonsalb** · 03-13-2018, 05:29 PM

If you drill out the spot welds (reinstall with nuts and bolts), the radiator support front sheet metal comes off and it is very easy to pull the engine and trans right out the front. You don’t need much height, unlike trying to lift both out the hood opening.

**NoLastName** · 03-13-2018, 06:40 PM

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

If you drill out the spot welds (reinstall with nuts and bolts), the radiator support front sheet metal comes off and it is very easy to pull the engine and trans right out the front. You don’t need much height, unlike trying to lift both out the hood opening.

That's my preferred removal method. Super easy on my own car where I've removed all HVAC stuff. For those who haven't used this procedure: it's awesome, but to keep a/c intact you have to evacuate and recharge the system refrigerant.

Engine.jpg

**NeilM** · 03-14-2018, 08:38 AM

Originally Posted by JitteryJoe

I've also done a clutch job using Harbor Freight 6 ton jack stands. They provide enough lift as well at a lot less cost.

Yep. I've been there twice using the jack stand method.

While it's not immediately obvious, you don't actually want the car too high (unless using a full size lift). It needs to be low enough to reach what you need to while lying more or less flat on a creeper, and for a transmission jack to work. This makes the jack stand method work better than people might expect.

Otherwise the car needs to be significantly higher than jack stands allow so that you can sit up under the car. Otherwise you'll be trying to sit up partially, which isn't going to work for long. When working on the shift linkage and the upper bellhousing bolts you have to be able to reach up in there.

Over the years I've been intrigued by the QuickJack and other similar products, but they do rather block access from the side while in use:

I've concluded that for me the benefit isn't there.

Neil

**scooper** · 03-14-2018, 10:20 AM

I've swapped auto and manual transmissions just jacking the car up 18-24"? I don't recall exactly how high, but I use craftsman 4T jack stands with a wood blocks underneath. I do recall needing to jack the car higher for the auto trans to get the trans to roll out afterwards. I removed the wheels to get more clearance.

**TH3 Shifty** · 03-14-2018, 12:13 PM

Originally Posted by JitteryJoe

I have one of these and there is plenty of clearance.
http://www.ezcarlift.com/

I've also done a clutch job using Harbor Freight 6 ton jack stands. They provide enough lift as well at a lot less cost.

I’m actually more impressed with this system than quick jack. This gives you the ability to have more side room under the car as well as the ability to essentially put it on wheels and move the car around. My only gripe is how slow it is to raise the car with an electric drill.

**pbonsalb** · 03-14-2018, 12:56 PM

Costs more than a 2 post lift. Did not see the weight to determine portability. One issue some report with quickjack is that the platforms are not long enough to go below each factory jacking point. Not sure whether EZ is better in this respect. It seems to me that quick jack is a fair value for a portable. EZ costs 1/3 more.

**JitteryJoe** · 03-14-2018, 01:23 PM

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Costs more than a 2 post lift. Did not see the weight to determine portability. One issue some report with quickjack is that the platforms are not long enough to go below each factory jacking point. Not sure whether EZ is better in this respect. It seems to me that quick jack is a fair value for a portable. EZ costs 1/3 more.

EZ is plenty long to fit under the factory jack points. As mentioned above, it is nice that there is room to enter/exit under the car from the sides. It is not perfect but I'm happy with it.

**Alpine 318is** · 03-14-2018, 04:54 PM

The Quickjack has a longer version of the 5000 lbs one that only costs a bit more so I will just have to measure the jack points to see which one to get. The EZ Jack costs more, you have to use a drill and at a 4000 LBS weight limit that means I can't jack up my X3 which just wouldn't be worth it.

**bimma360** · 03-14-2018, 10:00 PM

Originally Posted by NoLastName

I've done this a couple times myself. Things are so much easier to access and you can clean everything too. If you plan to pull the engine and transmission out through the hood as a unit, the body needs to be very high off the ground or else the tail of the transmission hits. The angle to pull out of the engine bay is quite steep. Also make sure you don't get everything loose and the engine hanging in the hoist only to discover you didn't leave yourself enough ceiling clearance... lol.

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

If you drill out the spot welds (reinstall with nuts and bolts), the radiator support front sheet metal comes off and it is very easy to pull the engine and trans right out the front. You don’t need much height, unlike trying to lift both out the hood opening.

^This is the plan!

Originally Posted by JitteryJoe

If it just costs you an extra day I'll be very impressed. I can see if you have done it a few times you might be able to get it done in a day, but no way I could even though I have now done it once. Just so much stuff that has to be cleared out of the way.

Hahah I use "a day" very loosely... what am I talking about? 8 hours? 12 hours? I don't know haha. Getting to the stage where the motor is ready to come out from the front I don't anticipate to take me more than a day. Pulling the motor at that point is quick work. But hey, I'll just have to see how it goes.

**pbonsalb** · 03-14-2018, 10:06 PM

I can pull a trans in less than 2 hours including all the prep work and removing the clutch. I can’t pull a motor that fast.

**bimma360** · 03-14-2018, 10:21 PM

I definitely can't do that haha, not even close. But thats why I said I would be going the crazy route. I'd much rather take the longer tedious path than to try to do a clutch job on jack stands under the car. I just have zero interest, I don't know.

**NeilM** · 03-15-2018, 08:16 AM

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I can pull a trans in less than 2 hours including all the prep work and removing the clutch. I can’t pull a motor that fast.

Clearly you've done it way too many times!

Neil

**pbonsalb** · 03-15-2018, 10:07 AM

Yes. In addition to being on my 3rd engine in 13 years, I am on my 3rd ZF320 and my 4th clutch. Forced induction and drag racing is fun but hard on parts not designed for the power and abuse. I’ll probably be changing to a 6 speed trans this year that is stronger so I have another trans pull in the future.

**M3kiwi** · 03-15-2018, 01:17 PM

+1 re quickjack

**nick325xit 5spd** · 03-15-2018, 02:48 PM

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Yes. In addition to being on my 3rd engine in 13 years, I am on my 3rd ZF320 and my 4th clutch. Forced induction and drag racing is fun but hard on parts not designed for the power and abuse. I’ll probably be changing to a 6 speed trans this year that is stronger so I have another trans pull in the future.

Yeah, I've pulled plenty of engines and transmissions. I can do a clutch job a lot faster than I can R&R an engine.

**pbonsalb** · 03-15-2018, 04:07 PM

My favorite time saving tricks are to use a couple of guide bolts/studs in place of trans bolts. These are trans bolts with the head and some length cut off and a slot dremeled into the end for a screwdriver. I remove a couple of bolts and let the trans hang on these while I pull the rest. I then slide thectrans off these. I use them to hold the trans while I slide it the last inch or two back on since that is the part that often hangs up (probably pilot bearing) and I am too old now to hold the trans while I try to wiggle it into place.

My second trick is to put the trans on a harbor freight trans scissor jack. These go up about 3 feet so I sit on a stool and lower my lift. I use an 18V impact wrench to run the scissor up with the trans on it. Jack is about $90 at HF. Once or twice the trans has gone right onto the motor and the other times have taken just a couple of minutes. You can adjust the top plate of the jack to level the trans. It has to be very square to the motor or it does not want to fully seat. I judge by the evenness of the bell housing to motor gap. Beware of the metal gasket plate hanging up also—the guide bolts help here as well.