I'm going custom pistons to get the bob weight down quite a bit, which allows my to move the rings around a bit. The design will be for NA and an option for a small shot of N2O down the road (unless it increases bob weight).
Total Seal has a new ring design out that allows better sealing against the cylinder wall. This is an alternative to vertical/horizontal gas ports. Waiting on Erik to discuss with Total Seal before a decision is make.
https://www.totalseal.com/rings/gas-...%20the%20seal.
Honing it out:
Long story short, Covid and part delays.
Most of the parts should be arriving by early next week, hoping to have the engine back in a couple weeks. Should only take about a week to install as I'm planning to move some stuff around in the engine bay.
Here are some pictures of the custom pistons.
those are sexxxxxxxxyyyyyyyyy
Agree - works of art (with a price no doubt!).
Great thread!
With the custom pistons, it allows custom rings. I'm planning on staying NA with maybe a baby shot of N20 in the future. This setup knocks off about 2lbs from the bob weight of the rotating assembly, which is massive.
This will reduce wear, increasing reliability, and even power/efficiency. This will pair well with my CCW crankshaft.
I believe your math is a little off. It's about 130g/piston. ~454g/lb, so 1/4lb per piston. Uh, yeah. I'm wondering how it will rev. Should be super quick with that much weight knocked off. Mind you, this isn't over stock, this is over OTS 416cu in components.
The custom pistons added about $450 for the build. This allowed my to have custom rings, which knocked off another ~25g/piston. The rods will be heavier than stock and are OTS aftermarket. I should have weights for everything next week.
Assembly is starting today.
Bob Weight is under 1600 grams. I believe that is similar to the LS7 that uses Titanium. Pictures are incoming once Flicker let's me sign in.
Well, while the engine is out, I figured I should drop the rear subframe and replace all the bushings. They don't look bad, except one, but I assume 520hp to the wheels will make short work of the rubber bushings. I went with 95A to stiffen everything up.
Had a little difficulties when removing the e-brake cable. It got stuck and I had to remove the seat and e-brake handle. That wasn't fun tbh.
Engine should be done within the next 2 weeks or so. Hopefully the rear is complete by then.
Finally, the wait is over!
Had a buddy come over and help me wrestle this thing in the car. We had a pretty bad ice storm recently which delayed getting this installed for a few days.
Sometimes you just have to kick it
Done for the night, minus the TB install.
I added some additional insulation, ran out of tape towards the shifter area. I am quite pleased with how it turned out. Insulation is basically required, and I would highly recommend some high temp tape to fill the gaps, it looks so much better. I used some flue tap, it was about $8 from the local hardware store.
Wooo-hoooo!
Diving in at the shallow end!
I cleaned up my front subframe yesterday prior to my buddy coming over. I was considering reinforcing the subframe with the rally road kit. It was delayed (due to ice storm), so I fabbed up similar plates. After cleaning & sanding, I decided against reinforcing the front subframe. I figured it is worth the discussion.
My 2 main points in not doing it is:
- The Vorshlag mount uses the LCA bolt for it's main support w/ a 12mm bolt where the S52 mount is located. I am assuming this reduces the stress on the subframe.
- I am unable to paint/coat the underside of the plate. This would lead to guaranteed corrosion, which I deemed a higher risk than leaving the subframe stock.
What are your thoughts on this?
Did some wiring today and found some bolts I needed to order. One thing about engine swaps is, everything has an order it needs to go in the engine bay. Well, I forgot to partly install the DS header when putting the engine yesterday. Wrong order. So, had to drop the subframe a tad, remove the DS engine mount, and wiggle the header into the space. Wait a pain in the butt!
Lookin' good Brent!
Once your mounts and headers are on, just double check the clearance with the frame on the DS. My header isn't clearanced well with the Vlog stuff.
1998 M3 Sedan - LS3 M12T56 - A bad addiction.
Love to see it come together...such a clean build!
Well, everything is basically back together minus the front end. Still waiting on spark plugs to arrive prior to starting it up. I ordered Revshift bushings over 3 weeks ago and still waiting on those to ship, so the rear subframe is dropped still. I figure once they arrive, it will take a day to put the rear back on the car.
I did crank it over yesterday to make sure everything was wired up. Well, I cranked it for about 8-10 seconds, then lost all power! I don't have any blown fuses. I think there may be a short somewhere. I started some troubleshooting today. Got my voltmeter out and did a continuity test between the B+ Power Post and the ground, got a beep. Started going down stream from there and got to the Power Distribution Panel (under the fuse box). The 2/3 red wires connecting to the post had continuity with ground. I isolated them and found the red wire going inside the cabin was the grounded wire. I am still trying to figure out where exactly it is grounded, if anyone has any thoughts, please let me know because this is a PITA.
**It was the fusible link.
Last edited by wbrentr; 11-09-2020 at 10:14 PM.
All systems in the engine bay are a go to fire it up. I will hold off until I can put my exhaust back on so my neighbor's don't have to hear an open header 416. I won't be able to do that until my new subframe bushings arrive. Good news though, they should be here tomorrow. Need an alignment, then should be road worthy.
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I have about 100-150 miles to put on the engine prior to changing the oil. Then it will be put on the dyno for a final tune.
Just a reminder everyone, if you take a part off, clean it. This took about 15 minutes with a wire brush wheel on a drill. It's very therapuetic.
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Whew, yesterday was a long day. Tested positive for Covid, seems like I will be in the majority soon. I was able to get some work done on the car the past few days though. It's a bit slower, it feels my energy is drained after 15 minutes.
Anyways, here are some pictures!
If you remember, I had a hole cut in my PS headlight to get some fresh air for the engine. I ordered some fittings to make it a true cold air so I'm able to put my HIDs back.
Sub frame is ready to be installed. I wanted this to be a 2 person job as it's fairly heavy. It may be a 1 person w/ a jack job unless I want to wait 10 days. I may tackle this tomorrow.
Last edited by wbrentr; 11-13-2020 at 09:47 PM.
Good luck with your recovery!
Diving in at the shallow end!
Good progress. Good luck with the recovery and now we all have to wear mask and gloves when browsing your posts
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Looking really good, back and better than before. I also like how you did the intake, the heat reflective take on the two sections looks killer.
Thanks for the kind words. I'm feeling better, still have a few symptoms though. Fortunately, they weren't too bad and now my isolation period is over. Figure I would celebrate by having a buddy come over. He help me bleed the brakes and clutch. Also, have this video to share...
Last edited by wbrentr; 11-22-2020 at 05:14 PM.
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