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Thread: Mixed E36 Build

  1. #76
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    Mar 2012
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    Oklahoma
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    1997 M3/4/5
    I think this is pretty good
    Front: 48.8%
    Rear: 51.2%

    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  2. #77
    Join Date
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    Washington
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    BMW 525i
    What water pump are you using and is it with fbody accessories?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2002 BMW 525i - 6.6L LS Turbo Swap
    Follow me on Instagram at @LantzFab
    Link to LantzFab.com
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    Link to my build page

  3. #78
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    1997 M3/4/5
    LS3 ATI Damper & WP w/ F-body accessories.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lantz View Post
    What water pump are you using and is it with fbody accessories?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by wbrentr; 05-24-2020 at 04:53 PM.
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  4. #79
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    1997 M3/4/5
    I'm currently working on the ABS system.

    My light is on even though I installed the 10 ohm resistor across the secondary throttle. Do I need to use any signals from the x69 connector (e.g. wheel speed) and connect to the ABS module? Is the ABS pump self bleeding?
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  5. #80
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    1997 M3/4/5
    Well, after doing about 7 hours of research and reading through a bunch of wiring schematics, I found the issue with the ABS.

    I know Bimerok has a lot of advice; it should be headed. After reading through a bunch of threads with people suggesting different things, one of his posts mentioned it works w/o touching anything. When I relocated my ABS pump, I made a wiring extension from some old connectors I got from the junkyard. I had 2 wires switched while soldering. A simple continuity test on the extension harness and I found the error in about 30 seconds. Swapped them around and no more ABS light.

    I still need to route the low pressure lines to my liking. Am I correct in saying the low pressure lines flow from the ABS to MC?
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  6. #81
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    Mar 2004
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    USA
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    96 328is 6.0L
    Glad you were able to find your ABS issue!

    On your post with weight distribution, did you post it other way around? I think The front should be on the heavy side, not the rear?
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  7. #82
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    1997 M3/4/5
    I was surprised by the weight distribution as well. It was a full tank of fuel, so they may be why it has slightly more rear bias.
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  8. #83
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    96 328is 6.0L
    Hmmm. Very strange.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  9. #84
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    1997 M3/4/5
    Just double checked and the scales were right. I have a stock e36 I'm going to weigh soon. Looking forward to the comparison.

    I mean, I'm not mad about more weight in the rear.

  10. #85
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    1995 M3
    Spare tire in the car, OEM sized battery? Those together are 80-90lbs.

  11. #86
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    1997 M3/4/5
    Stock size battery. No spare tire or jack. I did have a few tools in the back, but not more than 10 lbs.

  12. #87
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    96 328is 6.0L
    Is the floor you are using scales on absolutely level? Something must be off
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  13. #88
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    1997 M3/4/5
    After going on a drive last night, first time with a passenger, I noticed some rubbing.

    Got really motivated this morning and went to hacking the rear fenders to make some more room for the tires. Got that done this morning, just need to weld it up. I will post pictures later. The headlight I ordered should arrive today and that will start the process of a custom intake via the high beam spot on the passenger side.

    I also ordered the Term X and components. More of a safety factor w/ the tune, but I'm already itching for "Mo' Power Baby". So... I'm considering nitrous.

    And finally, I ordered a heater bypass hose. The only reason I kept my heater is to provide extra cooling in case my engine needs it. My temps have been staying around 192-195 depending on driving conditions, so I'm going to delete that and hopefully remove some heat from the cabin. I will leave everything in place until next summer just in case I want to hook it back up.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Is the floor you are using scales on absolutely level? Something must be off
    You are probably correct. I put a level on the floor and there is the slightest angle (for a water drain off) in the garage. Not sure how I'm going to measure the angle to add height to the rear scale, but it will take some thinking.
    Last edited by wbrentr; 05-30-2020 at 11:47 AM.
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  14. #89
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    '99 LS-swapped 323i vert
    Quote Originally Posted by wbrentr View Post
    You are probably correct. I put a level on the floor and there is the slightest angle (for a water drain off) in the garage. Not sure how I'm going to measure the angle to add height to the rear scale, but it will take some thinking.

    You could just back in to the scale and see if it makes any difference.

    My guess is that the angles we are talking about are so small that the difference will be totally negligible. (But what do I know, I am only a physicist!)
    Diving in at the shallow end!

  15. #90
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    Yeah, makes sense. Kind of surprised I didn't think of that. I guess when you get focused on a problem, it is easy to forget to think outside of the box.

    Quote Originally Posted by motorV8ed View Post
    You could just back in to the scale and see if it makes any difference.

    My guess is that the angles we are talking about are so small that the difference will be totally negligible. (But what do I know, I am only a physicist!)

    My Holley Term X arrived today. I will make provisions this week to start wiring everything up I need.
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  16. #91
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    1997 M3/4/5
    I installed the Terminator X and have been playing around with that recently, which means watching a lot of youtube videos on it. Just set up my knock sensors last night and need to tune them. The fuel tables are good to go, just need to start playing with the spark table. If anyone has some advice, that would be great. I've done a bunch of reading but sometimes it's tough to trust people on the internet.

    Sunday is the first autocross. I'm interested in seeing how it does. I know I will have some heat issues, but I picked up a new hood and installed some vents, getting vinyl wrapped on Friday, so hopefully that helps. I also wired a switch so I can turn my fan on while the car is off.

    Temps start rising when I am at idle. The highest I've seen is 206F. I'm not sure what the upper limit at idle is right now.
    Last edited by wbrentr; 06-23-2020 at 09:56 AM.
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  17. #92
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    Installed the hood last night. I noticed about a 5 degree drop on highway CTS (194-189) and I haven't seen any temps over 200 while idling, but I still have some testing to do. The IAT temp range didn't change. IAT would creep up while idling, up to about 130, and then drop quickly (quicker w/ new vented hood) to about 10 degrees over ambient. I did fashion a gurney flap on the front of the vents. I'm assuming that helps, but will confirm with a string test.

    Onto the Holley, I have figured out they prefer you to use their sensors instead of doing a custom setup. They do have some defaults (e.g. MAP - GM LSx), but they aren't very descriptive. That sensor referred to the ls1 style, so I had to do some conversions to get the Ls3 to work. No biggie. You just have to be thorough when going through the sensors during setup. I do have some tuning left to do, mainly adjusted some partial throttle timing.

    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  18. #93
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    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    367
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    1998 328I
    Quote Originally Posted by wbrentr View Post
    Installed the hood last night. I noticed about a 5 degree drop on highway CTS (194-189) and I haven't seen any temps over 200 while idling, but I still have some testing to do. The IAT temp range didn't change. IAT would creep up while idling, up to about 130, and then drop quickly (quicker w/ new vented hood) to about 10 degrees over ambient. I did fashion a gurney flap on the front of the vents. I'm assuming that helps, but will confirm with a string test.

    Onto the Holley, I have figured out they prefer you to use their sensors instead of doing a custom setup. They do have some defaults (e.g. MAP - GM LSx), but they aren't very descriptive. That sensor referred to the ls1 style, so I had to do some conversions to get the Ls3 to work. No biggie. You just have to be thorough when going through the sensors during setup. I do have some tuning left to do, mainly adjusted some partial throttle timing.


    How was the overall install of the term x system? Been curious to see more people use these for e36 and how it all ties in/works etc. Just curious

    Also, my car is boosted and have had no issues doing auto cross with heat, hope you have the same experience!

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by RulyLSX View Post
    How was the overall install of the term x system? Been curious to see more people use these for e36 and how it all ties in/works etc. Just curious

    Also, my car is boosted and have had no issues doing auto cross with heat, hope you have the same experience!
    I am liking it. As with any of our builds, we will spend more time & effort to our satisfaction than tuner will (or exhaust builder in my case). It's totally understandable, but tuning requires some time to dial everything in place. It is nice to be able to make those changes on the fly. The not so fun part about the Terminator X system is you have to do your own charging system and fan relay. That just means some extra clean up though. Another downside is you can't change the signal on the Term X that gets sent to the tach, so the stock tach is off. I'm still trying to manipulate that signal without installing a Dakota Digital box. But that will wait for a while as you can read below.


    Autocross went well. The ABS unit was acting up as I probably didn't let it self bleed enough before the event. So, bleeding the brakes is on my list of things to do. My temps never got above 200, even while idling for a short period, but I didn't have to idle too long. I still need to monitor it and see where it wants to settle at while idling. Each heat had 5 runs. I improved with every run and dropped about 2.5 seconds from my first to fourth run. At the end of my 4th run, I noticed my oil pressure was only around 25 psi, which seemed lower than normal but thought it just got a little hot. As I prepared for my 5th run, I started the car and noticed 0 psi on my oil pressure gauge after about 10 seconds. I immediately turned the car off. I investigated and then plugged my computer in to check the 2nd pressure sender, started it and both gauges showed 0 and I started to hear lifter tick. Shut off immediately.

    A friend picked me up in his trailer and after I got home, I started tearing the front end off the car while troubleshooting in my head.
    1. Blocked pickup tube
    2. Cut O-Ring
    3. Pressure relief stuck open in oil pump

    As I pulled off the timing cover, I noticed the timing tensioner was broken. Cool. I found this is a common issue, so I'm switching to an LS2 guide.


    I pulled the oil pump off and the spring was still in the pump. I dropped the sub frame to get the oil pan off.


    Pick up tube & o-ring is good. I started digging around in the oil pan and noticed my magnetic plug has some build up on it. As I've read, this is fairly normal for a new cam/spring package. Although I'm not sure if this amount is normal. There were a couple flakes/burrs in the oil pan. Not sure where those came from, but I sent an oil sample to BlackStone today. Hopefully will have that back late next week.



    So, there it sits tore apart. I will pull the valve covers to see if I lost any trunions. I think some of the burrs may be from the new springs. If the oil report is bad, the engine is getting pulled and sent off for diagnosis. I am cutting the oil filter today and if it looks okay, I will start putting parts back. A new Melling oil pump will be install waiting for the oil report.
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  20. #95
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    96 328is 6.0L
    That is very strange. If the pump is still intact and nothing is blocking pickup, how could you possibly loose all the pressure? Is there another bypass in the block somewhere that could possibly be releasing all of it?

    Very interested what you will find.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    That is very strange. If the pump is still intact and nothing is blocking pickup, how could you possibly loose all the pressure? Is there another bypass in the block somewhere that could possibly be releasing all of it?

    Very interested what you will find.
    There are a lot of oil pumps that have their relief valve stick open, which puts it in recirc mode and doesn't build pressure. Decent little youtube video showing the flow path.
    https://youtu.be/Il5F_QfHGV4?t=99

    https://youtu.be/v4jiSshUhUY?t=79
    Last edited by wbrentr; 07-02-2020 at 10:38 AM.
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  22. #97
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    Ok, I see. I thought in your original post you checked for that and it was good. Maybe I misunderstood.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Ok, I see. I thought in your original post you checked for that and it was good. Maybe I misunderstood.
    I did and thought it was fine. But I'm coming back to that as that is what went bad. No idea why oil pressure went to 0.

    Cut my filter open this morning, not good news.
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  24. #99
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    Well, not as bad as I first thought. I think I may be able to install a new pump and be good; although the longevity is shortened considerably. But, I'm not going to do that.

    The question now is 416 vs 427. Either should achieve >500 rwhp. For those who run that through the M diff and half shafts, have you guys had any problems?
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

  25. #100
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    Engine is torn down. I know a lot of people boost these; I've done that before, but I've never built a big NA engine, so here goes.

    During tear down, it is thought that the oil pump relief valve stuck open, resulting with 0 oil pressure. There was some metal that went through the engine due to the cam/springs/retainer install, which is fairly normal. I should have did an oil change after a couple hundred miles, but I didn't. There really wasn't any damage internally and it was discussed just to put a new oil pump on it and drive it.



    It was decided to build out to 416 in3 while it's out. As I plan on keeping this car for at least 5-10 years, I really don't want to pull the motor out again and have to go through it. That guided the build as follows:

    416 - Bore 4.070 Stroke 4
    Callie's 8 CW crank - Fairly new offering in the forged area, but 8 CW is more common with billet cranks
    Scat 6.125 CR
    Custom pistons - Erik Koenig is designing these. Shelf-stock pistons are a bit heavy. We are trying to get the bob weight down
    Johnson Lifters w/ tie bars
    Comp Cams Shaft Rocker System
    Heads - Stock LS3
    Intake - Stock LS3

    I'm leaving the h/i stock and can pick up some power in the future. I'm expecting somewhere in the 525whp with this setup.


    I was considering going 427, but that would increase the stroke to 4.125. That can pull the pistons out of the stock sleeve, but custom pistons can be accommodate for this. There will still be quicker wear vs a 4" stroke though. The engine is being built at Horsepower Research (HPR). They specialize in racing applications and large cube LS/LT engines, as well as Ford engines. One of their popular builds is there 468 in3.
    1997 E36 M3/4/5
    ASM - Slicktop
    My LS3 Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30117299

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