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Thread: 1995 M3 turbo - Redoing a sketchy build

  1. #1
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    1995 M3 turbo - Redoing a sketchy build

    This is the first time I’ve posted anything about this car and I’ve never made a thread on the build progress of any car I’ve had. Since I’m redoing a lot on this car I figured I’d have questions a long the way and having a place to track progress will be nice.

    So, our house just went on the market and a buddy of mine offered space in his garage to store it until our new house is done being built. The only stipulation is we have to work on it so he can get some content for his YouTube channel. I have no problems with this since I do really need to start working on it, he has a lift and an extra set of hands will be of great help after having had to work on my back with the car on jackstands all this time by myself. Unfortunately the progress will likely be on the slow side due to our schedules and obligations but at least I’m finally going to be able to actually start installing parts. I dropped off most of the stuff at his house over the weekend and I should have the rest over there this coming weekend.

    A little about the car - It’s a ‘95 AW coupe that I picked up locally with the current turbo kit and a few mods. I’m the third owner, it has 120K on the odometer and it has been a Houston car all it’s life. The motor and head were freshened up around 4K ago and I put maybe put 1K on it myself before I hung it up. It makes decent power and the car itself is in really good condition but the PO cut so many corners when he did the install and tried to fix other little problems. Some of the things I’ve come across are just ridiculous.. I initially took the car off the road due to bad rear axle and and that’s when I started noticing all of the shortcuts taken on it. I started buying the right parts and worked on making things legit but the more I dug in the more BS I found. So it was then that decided to just start buying all of the parts I needed to build it to what I want it to be and it has been down ever since. I think it’s been close to 3 years now, being busy and unmotivated has not helped the cause.

    Anyway, here’s what was on the car when I bought it.

    - TCD cast mani with GT3582R
    - Ebay intercooler
    - TRM 60lb blow through tune

    -.140" cometic head gasket and ARP 2000 head studs
    - M50 intake mani
    - Janky 3” exhaust with a cut out and a magnaflow muffler
    - Tial 44mm WG
    - Tial 50mm BOV
    - F1 stage 4 w/ LTW flywheel
    - Bilstein shocks and H&R springs

    - PowerFlex subframe and RTAB bushings with limiters
    - Turner solid diff bushings
    - Adjustable rear control arms
    - New alcantara headliner and pillars
    - AEM trueboost
    - AEM Wideband
    - BBS LM reps

    I’ve since accumulated a slew of OEM and aftermarket parts to get the car close to what I want it to be even though it will never be *done*, weekend fun cars never are. Since I don’t know the history of a lot of the sensors and some other vital parts I’ll be replacing most of those for peace of mind.

    Here’s a couple of pics from when I first brought it home.




    and one of the Datsun I had previous being picked up, I miss that car..




    Here’s like the one pic I have of how and where it’s been sitting all this time. Unfortunately I didn't take many pics of what I've installed up until this point so there's not much content to add regarding that.



    I went to drop off most of my parts over the weekend so I wanted to share some pics of my buddy’s garage. Having the AC in there should keep being unmotivated at bay during the brutal summer heat and humidity here.







    - - - Updated - - -

    The first thing I need to do right now is get it streetable so I can drive it over to his place across town. I haven’t started the car in a long time so I need to change the oil, drain the tank, change the fuel filter and squirt a little oil down into the cylinders. I’ve already changed the plugs, crank and cam sensors, O2 sensor, coil packs and the water temp sensor for the ECU. The last time it ran it would go lean once it warmed up and would die with a MAF code. I figure it’s a vacuum leak so I’ll be testing that once I get my intercooler pipes back on. I’m hoping it’s that easy of a fix… When that gets sorted I have to install the new rotor rings up front, new pads all around and bed them in. After that I think it’ll be good to make the journey.


    Is there anything else I should consider doing before starting it since it has sat so long?
    Last edited by SyCK; 03-12-2018 at 03:39 PM.
    '95 M3 GT35R


  2. #2
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    Car looks clean I look forward to the updates. What is your friends youtube channel the car will be on?

  3. #3
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    Wow

    photogasm.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36 328is View Post
    What is your friends youtube channel the car will be on?


    I'll find out. It's mostly just vids of him modding his mustang, the garage build and reviews on a couple of things.


    I came across some pics that I happened to take and emailed to myself at some point.

    Here is some janky ass 2.5" hotside pipe that was on the car. I have since installed a 3" pipe with no 90 degree crush bend BS.



    TR1245 core thickness vs the Ebay IC that was on there.



    Mounted



    Bumper on. Installed a Reiger GT lip and Motion Motorsports underpanel with radiator baffle.



    Picked up a AP Racing kit for the front and rebuilt/painted the calipers. I also had Coleman Racing make me a new set of rotor rings.





    Porsche Brembo calipers and E46 M3 rotors for the rear.






    When I picked up my 666 mani from getting coated.



    Cleaned the underside of the whole car but only took a pic of this section






    That's about all I can find right now but I guess I can include a list of what all I have installed on the car up until this point.

    - New seals; All glass, sunroof and trunk
    - Reiger front lip

    - MM Underpanel w/ radiator baffle
    - Smoked corners
    - Stance SS coilovers
    - Treehouse Racing front control arm bushings
    - UUC Swaybarian front sway bar with poly bushings both front and rear (stock rear bar)
    - Status Gruppe adjustable front sway bar links
    - BMW X-brace
    - AP Racing CP5200 4 POT front kit w/ new 330x28mm rotors
    - Porsche 4 POT rears w/ new 328x20mm E46 M3 rotors
    - Porterfield R4S pads all around
    - SS braided brake lines F/R
    - Setrab oil cooler
    - Bear SSK with AGK DSSR with a full rebuild kit
    - E21 tranny mounts with UUC enforcer plates
    - MEurosport billet throttle cable bushing
    - CES 3 intake elbow
    - Genuine BMW crank, cam and water temp sensors
    - NGK copper plugs and Bosch coil packs
    '95 M3 GT35R


  5. #5
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    Have plans to ditch the 35r ?

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  6. #6
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    With the porsche rears you can use the 750il discs and keep the stock ebrake working. Also did you jist elbow grease clean the undercarriage or some special method?

  7. #7
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    I can't see the pics and may have missed it but did you replace the bad axle which caused you to take the car off the road in the first place? If not, I would recommend replacing both and the wheel bearings at the same time. I found that removing the axle halves was the biggest task in replacing the bearings and is a no brainer to do them at the same time.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdavid View Post
    I can't see the pics and may have missed it but did you replace the bad axle which caused you to take the car off the road in the first place? If not, I would recommend replacing both and the wheel bearings at the same time. I found that removing the axle halves was the biggest task in replacing the bearings and is a no brainer to do them at the same time.
    My axles popped out pretty easily but i had to rip on that Damn hub with a 10 lb slide hammer for at least 30 minutes

    Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    What did you coat the manifold with?


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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Have plans to ditch the 35r?
    Yep, I have a S363 SXE that I'll be installing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mklock View Post
    With the porsche rears you can use the 750il discs and keep the stock ebrake working. Also did you jist elbow grease clean the undercarriage or some special method?
    I wish I would have read up more on compatible rotors since I still have to adjust the ebrake on these. I damn near ripped the handle through the tunnel when I first yanked it up after I installed them.

    I tried the elbow grease thing but it just wasn't working out and started to piss me off. I went and bought a container of Tub O' Towels heavy duty cleaning wipes and that took care of it relatively easy. Those wipes are amazing and I use them for everything now.

    Quote Originally Posted by gdavid View Post
    I can't see the pics and may have missed it but did you replace the bad axle which caused you to take the car off the road in the first place? If not, I would recommend replacing both and the wheel bearings at the same time. I found that removing the axle halves was the biggest task in replacing the bearings and is a no brainer to do them at the same time.
    I already replaced the axle and the wheel bearings looked and felt fine. It being a TX car all it's life the axle came out with just a push of my thumbs so if I need to replace the bearings later it's NBD.

    Quote Originally Posted by SilburE36 View Post
    What did you coat the manifold with?
    I had a local company ceramic coat it. http://www.polydyn.com/performance-coatings


    So I was dicking around with the car last night and decided to redo the ground that is running from the coil harness to a front vanos bolt but once I pulled the harness cover off I noticed the cable had a resistor on it. Is this a thing? I tried searching around but could not find anything regarding it but it seems odd that it is on a ground wire. It runs to a bundle of grounds for the coils.

    '95 M3 GT35R


  11. #11
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    Why replace the Bilsteins with Stance coilovers?
    Don't mean to be douchey, but that seems like a major downgrade.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SyCK View Post
    I already replaced the axle and the wheel bearings looked and felt fine. It being a TX car all it's life the axle came out with just a push of my thumbs so if I need to replace the bearings later it's NBD.
    That is really nice, good luck with the project.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1000hp View Post
    Why replace the Bilsteins with Stance coilovers?
    Don't mean to be douchey, but that seems like a major downgrade.
    I wanted to go lower and I got a good deal on them. If I don't end up liking them I'll just get something else but they seem to have decent reviews. The car will never see a track so I'm not too overly concerned about it and TBH I wasn't all that impressed with the Bilsteins. That's probably due to having always ran coilovers on my cars but they just weren't doing it for me.
    '95 M3 GT35R


  14. #14
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    I dug deeper and apparently that ground wire with the resistor IS a thing, mine is just all busted up to hell. I've never seen this before so I was kind of taken aback when I saw it and thought it was some more BS the PO did. I ordered a new wire and if anyone is curious or needs a new one the part number is 13901738183.
    '95 M3 GT35R


  15. #15
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    Nice work! Looking forward to the progress.

    Ken


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    Ken

    95' Dakar M3
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quicker10u View Post
    Nice work! Looking forward to the progress.

    Ken


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks, Ken. I'm looking forward to just finally being able to drive this damn thing around the neighborhood.

    -

    I got my e-brake adjusted, drained the tank, changed the fuel filter and changed the oil. I also tested it for vacuum leaks @ 20psi and the only place I found a leak was around the blow through MAF where it mates to the flange. I'm not sure why it doesn't seal worth a damn but it was a decent sized leak. I fixed that with some permatex sensor safe gasket maker so I am hoping this is the cause of my MAF error code, going lean and stalling once in closed loop. If not... ugh.

    I ended up having to pressure test it with the tester I got from Butters attached to the IC since when I tried it on the turbo inlet it just blew by the seals and bubbled the oil and the pan. When I first heard it my stomach sank thinking it was air getting into the coolant from a blown HG, so glad that was not the case.




    The Battery Tender is taking forever to get the battery charged back up so once the LED goes green I'll fire it up and hope for the best...
    '95 M3 GT35R


  17. #17
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    Oh dude awesome a fellow turbo 95! +1 for your buddy's YouTube channel, let us know.

    And that garage is fackin awesome. Looking forward to your progress man.

  18. #18
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    So after a few hurdles I was finally able to get the car started last night after sitting so long, \o/

    I took a vid and it's hard to hear, it's a lot louder in person, but does the volume of the tickin sound about right? I remember the motor being noisy but I can't remember if it was as loud as it is right now. It's been a while so I could just be tripping.

    One thing though is I am still getting the P1215 code (MAF) but the car runs fine now with it plugged in. Before I let it sit so long it had that error code but it would stumble and die once in closed loop. Now it runs perfect but the code is still present. Would having the battery unplugged for a year not clear the code? I guess I'll clear it tonight and try again but I was just curious if anyone had any other ideas before I start throwing some parts at it. I did a vacuum leak test and fixed the only leak I could find but maybe there is another somewhere I couldn't get to with the spray bottle. The car idles steady with vacuum at -19.

    Anyway, here is the vid and let me know if it sounds normal to you guys.

    '95 M3 GT35R


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