That's the right cam tool set for an S-52 single VANOS engine.
The value of ARP head (main) studs is that they're reusable__otherwise, why pay 3X the cost of one-use TTY bolts, unless you expect to rebuild the engine more than once (plus they have higher tensile strength, desirable with forced induction).
Update: Received AA headers, Clutch, & Picked-up the engine
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Nice
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“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
― George Orwell
I am currently stripping down the engine (i.e. Manifold, harness, etc.). I noticed a huge rust spot and wanted to ask a question. Would this rust spot be caused by the plug leaking coolant?
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Working on changing the water pump and power steering pump while I wait for the gasket kit and tools to come in. I still need to purchase head studs.
Anybody know the bolt size to remove the water pump?
Sorry for not being clear. The question was directed to the thread/size for the bolts to push out the pump. Regardless never thought of using the same bolt that holds it in place. Great idea sir.
I got bolts that worked on the new pump but they were to big on the old pump.
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Damn wrench doesn't fit.
Modified the tool. Timing gears are off.
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No Good
That sucks. I hope that something that is soft enough to drill. I once had an intake bolt break off in a head. I tried to easyout it and the easyout broke too. Once that happened I was screwed. I tried everything for a day and failed. I ended up changing the entire head.
I don't think it in fucked yet. Need easy out the bolt. Head is off though.
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That there is what never changing the coolant looks like. Tis the first time I've seen the head gasket leak at the water port.
- - - Updated - - -
Do not drill or try an easy out. Lightly heat the aluminum with a propane torch and wind the nub out with baby vise grips.
Thanks guys. It was pretty nasty. Spent the last 3.5 hours cleaning the block and head with razor blade and brass brush. You guys were right with recommending the head gasket replacement.
When there's no stub to grab with baby vise-grips, a left-handed drill bit is the best easy out I've ever used__of course a reversible drill is a must too! I gave up using so called Easy-Outs more than twenty (>20) years ago, they just cause more problems.
Using a left-hand drill bit heats the stud as it drills__RH bits do it too__but at some point the bit bites into the stud and unwinds it from the hole. It's worked every time.
That broken bolt end is going to be corroded in. It's going to take heating.... 250-300F, no where near the tempering point let alone the melting point. Don't force the bolt. Keep wiggling until it starts to move then wind it out with a back and forth motion. If it starts binding again, let everything cool down (the aluminum will cool much faster than the steel causing it to wedge). And start over.
I heated the crap out of the bolt and it's still bound up. No play whatsoever. The vice grips is tearing the bolt up. I soaked the bolt in PB blaster for the night. I'll try again with the heating process. I won't be as aggressive with the vice grips this time.
Check out the old water pump that I pulled Friday.
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Don't heat the bolt, heat the aluminum timing cover. You want to expand the aluminum, not the steel.
Well I have some shitty news. All the tips and tricks did not prevail on this stud. The stud did not want to budge after several heating cycles and two nights worth of soaking in PB blaster. I punched and drilled the stud to use an extractor. Everything was going good until the tip of the extractor sheared. I contacted a machine shop and they believe it will be a chore to extract the stud with the hardened tip stuck in it.
My thought is that I could get a new timing chain cover and swap it out with the one that the stud broke in. I read a write up on here and it doesn't seem that bad to swap out considering the progress I already made on this engine. I feel like this would almost be as cost effective than having the machine shop mess with it. I assume I need to change that gasket, but can I reuse those bolts or should I get new ones?
My next item that I would like to seek advice on. How should I clean the block and head surfaces that will mate up with the gasket? Below is the process I used. I didn't want to be to overly aggressive on the aluminum.
(1) Razor blade to scrape off gasket material and large chunks of gunk.
(2) Several hours of brake cleaner and small brass brush. (Still had areas of "coking" that were not coming off)
(3) Fine scotchbright pad.
(4) Aluminum polish.
The surface still looks discolored, versus the nice polished aluminum look. It is very smooth besides the few spots where "coking" has occurred. How should I proceed? I would like to avoid the machine shop and having to take out the rotating assembly.
Thanks
Call me Mel. Some years ago- never mind how long precisely- having little or no money in my purse, and nothing particular to interest me at home, I thought I would motor about a little and see the other parts of the world. It is a way I have of driving off the spleen and regulating the circulation.
If you have access to a MIG welder, weld a nut onto the remainder of the stud. The interior diameter of the nut should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the stud. Wiggle the nut back and forth and heat the aluminum per Randy W's suggestion. The nut might shear off--try again.
Wayne
1998 M Roadster
1994 Honda ST1100--sold
2017 Yamaha FJR1300ES
Classic/textbook outcome. Extractors work by forcing themselves into the hole you drilled and the more you tighten them into the stud, the harder it works to expand the stud into the hole it's already stuck in. Then the hardened stud extractor breaks off in the stud. Predictable outcome.
I use left-hand drill bits, and in the rare case when it can't back the stud out, I keep progressing with incrementally larger bits until there's no grip left and clean up the hole with a tap.
Starting__and keeping__the drill bit centered is paramount.
Moving on...
I've only used this practice on cast iron blocks, but with care, I don't see why you couldn't clean up an aluminum one too. You're not removing any appreciable amount of material, but maintain even and consistent strokes, equal pressure maintains itself.
Go to any local granite countertop place and ask if they'll give you one of the drops. Offer them a few bucks to square it up and give you at least one (>1) polished flat surface. Mine's a bit larger than an 8 x 11 sheet of sandpaper.
Properly clean afterwards.
Most of the time, it's used like this.
Why hadn't I thought of that... who needs a machine shop anyways?
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