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Thread: Boosting the 2000 Z3M

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    2000 M Roadster
    I ordered a new timing chain cover.

    IMG_4153.jpg



    The guide looks damaged. It looks easy to take out but I'll do it when I get the new part.

    IMG_4154.jpg

    Question: I assume I can reuse the metal gaskets? Yes or No.

  2. #52
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    No. If you're not already using a copy of the TIS, get one.

  3. #53
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    Update: Didn't get a huge amount of progress done since I have been ordering replacement parts from ebay & the dealership.

    Timing Chain Guide Replaced
    Installed New Timing Chain Cover w/ New Gaskets
    Received ARP Studs
    Received New Studs (Connecting the Head to the Block Near the Timing Gears & Water Pump)
    Received the BMW TIS

    The TIS looks to have good info as far as torquing specs. It doesn't seem to have very good step by step instructions. It lacks detail someone inexperienced like me.

    The instructions that came with the studs says to torque them down to 60 ft-lb in three increments (i.e. 20 ft-lb => 40 ft-lb => 60 ft-lb). This is a bit different that what the TIS states. It says to torque the OEM studs to 37 ft-lb => 90deg turn => 90deg turn. I plan on following the ARP instructions since those studs are not being torqued to yield. Thoughts on this???

    Once I get clarification on this I'll get the head on this weekend.

  4. #54
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    TIS is the dealer shop manual. It was written for the professional and does not coddle.


    ARP are not toque to yield. Therefore you do not use TTY procedures.


    /.randy

  5. #55
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    BMW torque specs apply to BMW studs. When you use ARP you should follow their recomendations

    ARP studs are not TTY as Randy mentioned, and therefore reusable in the future if you have to service the head again

  6. #56
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    Just what I thought. Thanks a bunch Randy & BB

  7. #57
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    Sometime when you're not requiring immediate data, spend some time surfing around the various categories/options in the TIS; not too long ago, I discovered some new__to me__feature I didn't know existed, and I've been using it eighteen (>18) years! There are sections only providing torque specs, but the actual maintenance category does indeed provide step-by-step procedures. That said, they don't duplicate jobs (well, not much anyway) so if you're removing the head for example, the TIS will direct you to, and provide links for the individual job's steps to remove the intake manifold, and still other docs. for the exhaust manifolds, head cover, etc., etc., etc.

    So while no, it "does not coddle" it will give clear and concise instructions for anything on the car(s)__I'm guessing that you just haven't discovered all the benefits yet

    For myself, and because I do a lot of similar jobs, I've printed out certain procedures (like both the single & double VANOS R&Rs, because even though I've done them dozens and dozens of times, I still want to do all the steps in order, and having them printed out and in front of me insures that).

    Once you've gotten familiar with its most usable functions__and assuming you do a fair amount of work yourself__the TIS will be one of the most useful tools in your toolbox,
    if you want to do everything right the first time!!

  8. #58
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    Guys need help. I installed my head and noticed that the stud wasn't clearing for the nut. I pulled out a stud and it is a bit shorter than the OEM. Do I need to get new ARP studs or do I back out the ARP studs enough to put the nut on?


    IMG_4158.jpg

  9. #59
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    Another photo to show what I mean.

    IMG_4159.jpg

  10. #60
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    The studs should bottom out in the holes (HAND TIGHT) and still have a few exposed threads ABOVE the installed nut & washer. Must be wrong stud...

  11. #61
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    Randy, I think I fucked up. I guess I got studs for the main bearings.

    IMG_4162.PNG

  12. #62
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  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShelbyGT500 View Post
    Randy, I think I fucked up. I guess I got studs for the main bearings.

    IMG_4162.PNG
    Oops!

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShelbyGT500 View Post
    Randy, I think I fucked up. I guess I got studs for the main bearings.

    IMG_4162.PNG
    "Build it right the first time, and keep it together longer"

    Checkout should have said "Make sure you've chosen the correct parts, build it right the first time, and keep it together longer"

    We've all been there! I went to put a set of rotors on a car only to find I had ordered rotors for a car I sold, not the car I bought.
    Nathan in Denver

    1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
    1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, 1 of 2, Manual Swapped, M Suspension & Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 68's

  15. #65
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    Nov 2017
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    Finally made some progress.

    Received the correct ARP studs Friday. Installed the studs and noticed that the E20 socket was to big to fit in the lifter rail. Removed the cams and lifter rail to torque down the nuts. Quickly realized that an E20 was still to big and had to purchase a universal socket to torque them down. Saturday I got the cam shafts installed. I spent a few hours attempting to time the cams. After each attempt I rotated the crank shaft a few rotations. The result was the intake cam was ever so lightly off. I started working on it again during Sunday. For some lucky reason I got it timed without making any changes, besides disassembling it and putting it back together. After a few rotations on the crankshaft the cams lined up correctly for TDC. Would installing the Vanos through off the timing, I wouldn't think so?

    Today I oiled up the cams and lifters and installed the valve cover. I capped off the coolant line going to the throttle body. Installed the water pump and thermostat housing. I am waiting on new o-rings for the metal coolant line that is installed in the timing chain cover. Hopefully it wont be a pain to install with everything assembled. I'll soon be working on getting the clutch install this week or next week.

    At this moment I have two questions.
    A) Would it be easier to install the motor and transmission in the car and then install the supercharger or install the supercharger with the motor on the stand? I think it would be time ahead with the motor in the car since I am still waiting on the supercharger kit to arrive.
    B) Are the bolts connecting the transmission to the block one time use or can I reuse them? They were not a pain to remove making me think that they were not torqued to yield.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Actually one more question.
    This vacuum line and connector is tied to the secondary air pump. Since I don't have one and the AA headers doesn't have a connection could I just delete this and cap it off on the intake manifold?
    Thanks again.

    IMG_4190[1].jpg

  16. #66
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    Engine in car, then add s/c
    I reuse them
    Yes, but without a "simulator" (or the function tuned to ignore in the DME) you'll be living with a MIL

  17. #67
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    So I am unclear on the meaning of this quote:
    Quote Originally Posted by ShelbyGT500 View Post
    that an E20 was still to big and had to purchase a universal socket to torque them down.
    What do you mean by universal socket in this regard?

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    Engine in car, then add s/c
    I reuse them
    Yes, but without a "simulator" (or the function tuned to ignore in the DME) you'll be living with a MIL
    Can the rear O2's really just be "turned off"? I know some other features can, like side airbags, just unplug it and remove the cold check. Didn't think O2's would be like that. Did I waste money on those O2 sims I bought

  19. #69
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    The MS41.x is capable of running 1, 2, or 4 O2 sensors. Or 0. It's just a matter of flipping bits.


    /.randy

  20. #70
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    As long as obd2 readiness monitors are preserved for those with obd2 plug in Inspection. The sims pass readiness.

  21. #71
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    What type of studs are used for the exhaust header? I thought M7x1.0 would work but they don’t. It only goes in about three threads and stops.

    This is the socket I used for the ARP nuts. I have no idea what it is called.
    298FCB71-48CC-4DA4-859C-CBCC1B265241.jpg

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    Can the rear O2's really just be "turned off"? I know some other features can, like side airbags, just unplug it and remove the cold check. Didn't think O2's would be like that. Did I waste money on those O2 sims I bought
    Yes they can on MS41, and readiness can be passed too. Always a text message away to save you money.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods. RomRaider self-tune work in progress.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg: Many Mods ~300ft/lbs tq, diesel, daily beater. Love/Hate relationship.
    - S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 230hp/330ft-lbs

  23. #73
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    Boosting the 2000 Z3M

    Quote Originally Posted by ShelbyGT500 View Post
    What type of studs are used for the exhaust header? I thought M7x1.0 would work but they donít. It only goes in about three threads and stops.

    This is the socket I used for the ARP nuts. I have no idea what it is called.
    298FCB71-48CC-4DA4-859C-CBCC1B265241.jpg
    Hex Spline ?


    https://store.snapon.com/Spline-Sockets-C800700.aspx



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by magnetchief; 04-18-2018 at 12:38 PM.

  24. #74
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    BMW 7mm studs, suitable for intake/exhaust manifolds (at least on the S-52/S-54 engines).


  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnetchief View Post
    Hex Spline ?


    https://store.snapon.com/Spline-Sockets-C800700.aspx



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Based on a few cues in the pic, I would guess.


    https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piec...set-96363.html


    /.randy

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