I just noticed, literally 5 minutes ago, that the S52 that I picked up is missing a sensor compared to the one that is had. See pictures below. Do you guys know off hand what it is?
Z3M Engine
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M3 Engine That Got
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Update:
Headers are on. Going to work on getting the pilot and throw-out bearings installed. Followed by the clutch install. Hopefully I can get everything back in the car this weekend. Supercharger kit is expected to arrive Monday.
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Z3M has an oil temp gauge that needs a sender. Use the oil filter housing and Vanos hose from your old motor.
Thanks
The alternators are different, also.
I noticed that long ago but didn’t think it was a big deal. That oil filter housing looks huge. Well back to work.
Super easy. I got a question, I probably know what you are going to say. Can I keep the gasket? It will be probably Saturday or Tuesday before the dealership can get it in.
No. That gasket is the number one leak source. I buy them in lots. The same gasket is used for all M5x and S5x engines, covering nearly 20 years. Your dealer should have plenty in stock.
Last edited by rf900rkw; 04-26-2018 at 07:55 PM.
These two rings came with the clutch kit. What are they for? I didn’t see any references when reading DIY write ups online.F87AC9B2-E0F8-4371-8217-2DE7E5AD1AE4.jpg
If they're the same size, they look like the "gaskets" that go between the mid-pipe and mufflers, but I cannot imagine why they'd be included with a clutch kit.
I thought that too. O well. Supercharger kit came in. At a stand still. I didn’t receive any bolts for the pressure plate. BMW will get them in on Tuesday. Could I use grade 8 hex bolts or should I wait? I’m just getting impatient.
What's wrong with the old bolts? I do not use hardware store Grade anything.
/.randy
Had to extract one out cause it rounded out.
Last edited by ShelbyGT500; 04-29-2018 at 03:06 PM.
Then a metric socket-head (8x1.25) from the hardware store will suffice. Get two and put them opposite each other for balance. Original bolts are 8.8, so you should be okay.
/.randy
Update.
Couldn't find any bolts that would work for the pressure plate. Monday evening I installed the new fuel pump. That was a mess chore. The BMW dealership received the pressure plate bolts on Tuesday. Got the clutch finished and transmission mounted Tuesday evening. Got the engine in the car Tuesday night. Tonight I got the power steering system hooked up.
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I have question. Can I delete the vacuum line from the fuel filter to the manifold? I assume it is only there for emissions. I will cap the manifold and have the fuel side open to the atmosphere.
Thanks
I think you mean the pressure sensing line for the fuel pressure regulator. What do you think?
Last edited by rf900rkw; 05-03-2018 at 09:12 AM.
/.randy
Thanks. Can you explain what it does? Does it help govern the amount of fuel supply?
Thje line is a reference for the fuel pressure regulator. People, including "educators" whose self-importance far exceeds their worth, will tell you it's to boost fuel pressure under load. That is not the case. The fuel injectors live with their discharge ports inside the manifold. This line supplies the fuel pressure regulator with a manifold pressure reference so that the pressure drop across the injectors is a constant 3.5B. There is easily a 20psi swing between manifold pressure and ambient, cruise vs WOT max boost. This line makes sure the fuel pressure as seen by the injectors is constant.
/.randy
Thanks Randy. I always appreciate your knowledge.
I may use an adhesive such as super glue to keep it on since their are no hose clamps that small. If I need it off I can cut the tubing and put in a plastic coupling.
Your hardware store will have several styles of clamps that will work. Spring clamps, not worm clamps. All of mine are clamped. Well, except the ones that were changed to compression fittings.
/.randy
Guys. I got the motor back in and the supercharger hooked up.
I tried to start it the first time. It rolled over but stopped. Apparently I did not clip in one of the fuel lines all the way so it was puking out gas.
Fixed that in 5 seconds. When I tried to start it the second time it made a click sound "as if the solenoid on the starter engage" but then all the power for the entire car shuts off.
I had to disconnect and reconnect the positive terminal to get power back on. I tried it a third time and it did the same thing. Before I keep doing this over and over again, what do you guys think I need to try.
Could it be a ground? I'll check but there were not that many grounds from what I remember.
What I don't have connected are the rear O2 sensors, front bumper, and radiator. I wanted to see the car run before I put them back on. Regardless this should not hinder the start up.
Update. Got power but know when I try to start the car it just clicks and it sounds like it is from the starter. Does even try to roll.
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