Surprised nothing turned up in search.. Im curious if anyone has done a fiberglass hood? Doesnt seem to be too many vendors other than here
http://www.pesch.cz/en/product/fiberglass-hood-bmw-e21
Just curious if anyone has done this and saw marked improvements on handling or performance or if this is a pretty senseless 'upgrade'
Fiberglass hood, door, ect is used to reduce weight of the vehicle to increase speed.
Randy
Stock hood weighs in around 53lbs or so while my fiberglass hood is 13lbs or so with mounting hardware.
BUT you need to wonder stand the way the hood "LOCKS" into the body it becomes part of the structural strength of the total uni-body frame of the car. So if you do not add some bracing to the front towers the body/chassis will flex more so the gains may be lost in the long run as the uni-body flexing more wearing out spot welds quicker.
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I guess I was thinking the hood weighed much more than 53. I guess its just large and awkward, not heavy. Doesnt seem worth it to drop 40lbs or so, then again people move a battery to the back in part for weight savings (and balance) so...
Thanks. Makes sense why there arent too many for sale.
I was thinking of going this route because I'm having an issue finding a rust free one on the east coat. But I have never received a fiberglass part that fits 100% perfect, so this has me worried to go this route.
'81 E21 320i / '90 E30 325i / '̶9̶2̶ ̶E̶3̶4̶ ̶5̶2̶5̶i̶t (sold) / '15 Toyota XW30 / '̶̶8̶0̶ ̶E̶2̶1̶ ̶3̶2̶0̶i̶A̶ (sold)
The hood is designed to crumple in a frontal impact. This was true for the 2002 as well as the e21. They are locked down there at the base of the windshield. In a crash the back edge of the hood will not got through the windshield and hit the driver or passenger. It's part of the front crumple zone. The front and back edges of the hood will stay down it a crash while the center will buckle in the upwards direction.you need to wonder stand the way the hood "LOCKS" into the body it becomes part of the structural strength of the total uni-body
This was a selling point for the bmw as opposed to an American car like a Mustang with a front opening hood which could fly up and go through the windshield or disconnects at the rear hings and go through the windshield.
No I don't believe it adds to the structural rigidity like you seem to think. It doesn't help hold the shock towers ( I mean strut ) a fixed distance apart. It doesn't add meaningful rigidity in the fore-aft direction either.
The back edge of the E30 hood also stays down on impact and does not penetrate the windshield.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7UihAyjJj4
I've a fiberglass hood but it was bought from a 02 racer early 2000's. He had an E21 but moved to a 02 (Bob Breed). Think it was made by Ireland Eng. Nothing fiberglass fits or is meant to fit perfect. Basically a skin part for cutting weight, and provide area for aerodynamics vs an open hole. You'll want to mount hood pins either latch style or old school pin pull style. 5 minimum. 3 across the front especially the center one nose of the car. If not it will catch air, flex and break.
The strength theory is interesting honestly never thought about that one. But when thinking about it the strongest part of the fender area is the rear where the towers are. From the towers back where the actual fenders screw to are double wall and boxed sheet metal fairly thicker than the rest of the front end. The hood latches in the rear are connected to this area essentially grabbing the towers. I've always ran a strut bar, but if had a fiberglass or aftermarket hood I'd definitely recommend one.
Takes a good bit of weight off the nose. If racing ask yourself where else can you cut 50+ lbs of metal off .
88 M3
91 318is
91 318i
83 320is
08 X3 3.0si
"If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"
This has been really helpful, thanks guys. I'll focus on rotational mass with a single mass flywheel for the M42 for now. If I get really in to actually racing/tracking the car it will be a consideration.
Next after that... fiberglass fenders and carbon fiber driveshaft. ; )
Single mass M20 flywheel with M20 clutch has been a nice upgrade on my daily 318is. I bought the kit from DynoTech Motorsports. M20 ltw fly with M42 ring gear on it (m42 starter is lighter). M20 standard sachs throw out bearing. No need for fancy stuff just standard M20 kit and bearing. Secret sauce as I think posted before is the clutch slave. The shaft just pops out and can be replaced with a longer one. DynoTech Motorsports gives a longer piece of rod but can make one yourself if a diy kit. Makes up for that difference in stack height travel
Wheels if don't have them. Ltw wheels goes a long way for unsprung weight. Makes the car noticeably quicker.
Last edited by autox320; 03-12-2018 at 08:59 AM.
88 M3
91 318is
91 318i
83 320is
08 X3 3.0si
"If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"
I may pick your brain more. I had someone offer an m40 flywheel for $100 shipped and it's supposed to be a bolt in affair. I don't think it's AS light as the m20 offering but the focus is cheap and easy for now .
It's been nearly an 18 month project just to swap so I wanna get wheels to the ground.
Sure sure just hit me anytime.
I think if had time could swap ring gears with heat. Otherwise easy button is find a M20 flywheel and clutch kit, will need M20 shorter flywheel bolts. Either swap ring gears on the flywheels to use the lighter M42 starter, or just use the M20 starter to match ring gear. Make up a clutch rod approx 1/2" longer and go from there.
M20 flywheel can be cut down by most shops for fairly cheap. Even if shipping somewhere like TEP it's not too bad. The ltw steel M20 I'm using was cut to 12 lbs. Works great, I have been daily driving it for 4yrs now.
There's a few other little things if have $ later like some updated 4 hole pintle injectors. It's just a tweak but noticeable better drive-ability and bit of power especially if using a chip (my fav M42 chip hands down is MarkD) http://www3.sympatico.ca/mdsylva/products.htm
Fuel atomization is greatly improved. Fuel is literally fogged in instead of sprayed.
https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/0280...em-upgrade-bmw
88 M3
91 318is
91 318i
83 320is
08 X3 3.0si
"If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"
Yea I found the upgraded fuel injectors... The ECU for the M42 I got had the Mark D chip in, didnt even know (dont think the seller knew?). Part of the reason why I moved from the E36 DME.
Theres a R3v thread that goes in to it a lot. If you can filter out the bad info, there seems to be a lot of options. I got these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/182147376147. 4 pintle, bosch type 3 upgrade... its just that they dont say 'BMW' so they dont have a higher mark up
For the M42... why do most go for the M20 vs the M40? I think the M40 flywheel is 13lbs.
LOL nice find to open and have a chip from MarkD in there. Yup I'm pretty sure I was an early adopter of the 4 pintle injectors. Mine are all Ford's from FiveO. I actually emailed Bruce a few times to suggest these Fords are upgrades for certain BMW's. Along with certain Volvo green tops are upgrades for the E30 M3 aka EVO's without the sellers tax on them
Not sure on the flywheels. Went the m20 route during times when everyone still thinks have to have a elusive 323 bearing and use the fly spacer etc. No need for that mess. Maybe just cause the M20 combo is a 228mm; overkill for the lil M42 holding power.
88 M3
91 318is
91 318i
83 320is
08 X3 3.0si
"If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"
I got my fiberglass hood from Anderson Tagliamento (jasa carbon) on facebook. He makes tons of fiberglass parts for the e21, has great prices and is a real nice guy. I have his group 2 kit, hood and roof spoiler.
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