Quick M50 Manifold Questions

[NotUrAvgM]

I've had an M50 manifold with a new TMS kit sitting around for a couple years in my garage and just decided to get off my ass and install it on my track car. Took everything apart tonight, no big deal. Things seem reasonably self explanatory (which is good since I don't have directions) so far.


Questions that arose tonight:
1. Can I reuse the S52 manifold rear support bracket with the M50? Do I really need it? I previously removed the front one to clear my oil sensors.

2. What the hell is the heat shrink thing with the TMS kit?

3. How much does the billet adapter plate lower all of the accouterments that live under the manifold? Any interference issues?

4. I am going to send my injectors to RCE... any point in simply selling the TMS kit and buying Eric's given the down time?


Thaknks

[pbonsalb]

I don’t like the tms and similar metal adapters. Makes working on the car harder due to reduced clearance. I DIYed my own but one of the aftermarket hoses would be more convenient for many people.

[JitteryJoe]

The heat shrink is to extend the length of the plastic vent tube which is too short after modification.
http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...-Guide_(2).pdf

[tjm3]

Don't bother cleaning the injectors. You may have a leaky injector or two when you get them back. No fault of RC. I found that the cleaning loosens any build up around the internal O-ring under the crimp towards the tip, or at least does something that makes them leak. RC has their own replacements for the stock injectors, or get a rebuilt set. I got mine from RM Euro, price was good and the core charge was also very low so I just kept the originals. I made a set of tools to remove and re-roll the crimp so I could replace the internal O-rings but it wasn't worth the time involved.

M3injectors.jpg

[NotUrAvgM]

Don't bother cleaning the injectors. You may have a leaky injector or two when you get them back. No fault of RC. I found that the cleaning loosens any build up around the internal O-ring under the crimp towards the tip, or at least does something that makes them leak. RC has their own replacements for the stock injectors, or get a rebuilt set. I got mine from RM Euro, price was good and the core charge was also very low so I just kept the originals. I made a set of tools to remove and re-roll the crimp so I could replace the internal O-rings but it wasn't worth the time involved.

So you're saying the GB reman ones from RM are fully rebuilt?

[tjm3]

So you're saying the GB reman ones from RM are fully rebuilt?

Just like anything else, what does 'fully rebuilt' mean? They worked and didn't leak. I was curious about how well they would work and surprised, actually, considering the cost.
I was also fully prepared to purchase the set of RC injectors, just in case.

[NotUrAvgM]

How often have you seen rebuilt injectors leak? I find it hard to believe RC, or any company that makes a living servicing injectors, would let them out the door if they leak.

[tjm3]

Hey, already said it's not an RC problem, it's an old injector/O-ring problem. Showed the issue, the pics and the fix. Use it or not.

[NotUrAvgM]

I'll think on it.

Couldn't find any info GB's site detailing if they fully strip the injectors during "reman". Maybe I'll shoot them an email.

Only good thing is FCP sells them so you'll always be able to get a free one if it goes bad.

[tjm3]

Couldn't find any info GB's site detailing if they fully strip the injectors during "reman". Maybe I'll shoot them an email.

Send them my photo and ask about that O-ring.

[NeilM]

I've had an M50 manifold with a new TMS kit sitting around for a couple years in my garage and just decided to get off my ass and install it on my track car. Took everything apart tonight, no big deal. Things seem reasonably self explanatory (which is good since I don't have directions) so far.


Questions that arose tonight:
1. Can I reuse the S52 manifold rear support bracket with the M50? Do I really need it? I previously removed the front one to clear my oil sensors.

I used both brackets, although the front one needed some material removed for clearance. Do as you like, but there's a fair amount of overhung mass on the intake manifold. I wouldn't omit both brackets.

It's also very important to make sure that there are no side forces on the ICV and CVV when assembled, otherwise you'll get vacuum leaks at their sealing grommets.

Neil

[NotUrAvgM]

I used both brackets, although the front one needed some material removed for clearance. Do as you like, but there's a fair amount of overhung mass on the intake manifold. I wouldn't omit both brackets.

It's also very important to make sure that there are no side forces on the ICV and CVV when assembled, otherwise you'll get vacuum leaks at their sealing grommets.

Neil

Gottchya. Ive not had the front bracket on for a few years due to gauge sender interference so I'll try to make the rear work.

I'm selling the TMS kit in favor of Erics so no worries about the grommets

If anyone wants a new TMS kit, let me know

[NeilM]

Gottchya. Ive not had the front bracket on for a few years due to gauge sender interference so I'll try to make the rear work.

Yeah, space can get tight in there. I few years ago I re-enginered my oil pressure sender to remote mount it:

DSC00997-sm.jpg

Took care of that problem, plus it isolates the sender from engine vibration.

Neil

[JitteryJoe]

Yeah, space can get tight in there. I few years ago I re-enginered my oil pressure sender to remote mount it:

Took care of that problem, plus it isolates the sender from engine vibration.

Neil

Sorry to hijack but, Neil, who did your oil cooler lines? Did you have them made to order?
I installed the euro oil canister and I'm installing a Zionsville radiator and oil cooler. But I'll be needing lines.
Also, any issues getting the lines routed (other than the alternator cooling duct).

[pbonsalb]

Looks like he has the 10AN conversion fitting for the S54 OFH that allows use of flexible lines. Bimmerworld andbothers sell them. You can use socket fit or braided steel. Socket fit is easy to assemble. Braided steel and fittings are a bit harder to assemble.

[NeilM]

Sorry to hijack but, Neil, who did your oil cooler lines? Did you have them made to order?
I installed the euro oil canister and I'm installing a Zionsville radiator and oil cooler. But I'll be needing lines.
Also, any issues getting the lines routed (other than the alternator cooling duct).

Looks like he has the 10AN conversion fitting for the S54 OFH that allows use of flexible lines. Bimmerworld and others sell them. You can use socket fit or braided steel. Socket fit is easy to assemble. Braided steel and fittings are a bit harder to assemble.

Correct. I made the lines with 10AN braided stainless steel hose and screw-on AN fittings (from Pegasus Racing). However these lines are heavy, fat and quite stiff, making them more difficult to route. If I were doing it now (and in fact I've already purchased the parts to re-plumb it) I'd use the more flexible and light weight Aramid hose, even though it's really pricey. The Aramid didn't exist back when I originally plumbed the job.

Hose routing is of course dependent on what oil cooler you use and where it's mounted.

I drilled out one OFH rear port and tapped it to M14 for the VANOS hose, but you can buy an M12/14 banjo adapter bolt instead (http://www.bimmerworld.com/E36-6-Cyl...anjo-Bolt.html). The other rear port takes a banjo fitting line (pre-made 3AN, plus NPT adapter, Pegasus) for the remote oil pressure sender.

I have lots of photos of this installation. PM me if you need more.

Neil

[JitteryJoe]

Correct. I made the lines with 10AN braided stainless steel hose and screw-on AN fittings (from Pegasus Racing). However these lines are heavy, fat and quite stiff, making them more difficult to route. If I were doing it now (and in fact I've already purchased the parts to re-plumb it) I'd use the more flexible and light weight Aramid hose, even though it's really pricey. The Aramid didn't exist back when I originally plumbed the job.

Hose routing is of course dependent on what oil cooler you use and where it's mounted.

I drilled out one OFH rear port and tapped it to M14 for the VANOS hose, but you can buy an M12/14 banjo adapter bolt instead (http://www.bimmerworld.com/E36-6-Cyl...anjo-Bolt.html). The other rear port takes a banjo fitting line (pre-made 3AN, plus NPT adapter, Pegasus) for the remote oil pressure sender.

I have lots of photos of this installation. PM me if you need more.

Neil

Thanks Neil. Pegasus is where I was looking at lines. Good tip about braided SS. I have them on my power steering pump/cooler lines and they are super stiff.
I got the euro oil canister from Zionsville and they modified for US vanos banjo. I used the Bimmerworld oil distribution block to keep the stock oil pressure switch and add two additional connections, an aftermarket oil pressure and oil temp unit (shown below).

[NeilM]

Looks very familiar! I used to have an oil distro block too, but as you pointed out earlier it gets kind of crowded in that area. I fixed that with the remote mount oil pressure sender and by taking oil temp from the pan.

Neil

[pbonsalb]

Aero quip socket hose is fine. No need for fancy covering. If you don’t use aeroquip check the temp rating. Some are only 250F. 300F or even 350F hose seems to hold up better over time. The lower rated stuff stiffens up.