what is $12 module on bmw 325

[WadiM3]

Look, I'm the least welcomed here, many of the people who told you what to do dislike me but I will still tell you to listen to what they recommended to you as they are the best at what they do and they do know their BMW's inside out.... Take a deep breath and forget the clutch job even happened and erase anything to do with a harmonic balancer out of your head. Buy some spark plugs and coilpacks and take it from there. One step at a time and stop trying to bite the hand that feeds you. These guys are helping you for free!

if your still not convinced about the harmonic balancer lol here's a fact: I been through 4 engines and never did the harmonic balancer fail on anyone of them... even the crank broke and balancer was fine!

now you either listen to the great people offering great valuable advise or change your harmonic balancer and come back and listen the hard way, the choice is yours!

[bmwdirtracer]

Nobody here dislikes you, Mohammed, and you are certainly welcome here.

I just want to provide a bit of proof to what I said earlier about the sparkplugs and coils being original equipment parts. I fixed an '02 M5 with misfires today. The owner is a somewhat regular customer, although he doesn't drive the car very much.

I got customer approval for a computer diag and also a smoke test before beginning. I connected my scan tool, and watched the misfire rates of each individual cylinder, while I revved the engine up and down, in the shop. In 2 minutes of running, cylinder 2 misfired 350 times, and cylinder 8 missed 600 times, with only a few misfires on each of several other cylinders.

I asked the customer to approve a "basic tune-up" : a set of plugs and a set of coils....and I said the smoke test was unnecessary. I ordered a set of the same Bremi coils and same NGK BKR6 EQUP sparkplugs as the ones I linked to earlier here. (Both cars use the same items).

When I pulled the plugs, it turned out that they were original ! And I thought of you, donion, when I looked at the logos on these plugs (photo below).

You know, on an E46, it's a very easy job to replace coils and plugs yourself, with a minimum of tools. Buy a cheap set of sockets with ratchet (3/8" drive), plus a T30 socket (Torx 30), plus a spark plug socket (16mm or 5/8"). You might want to add an extendable magnet-on-a-stick for another $5, to retrieve the nuts you drop. Altogether, the tools will cost you maybe $35-50. This will also be all the tools you need to do the valvecover gasket set, which you likely need.

For less than $400, you'll fix your problems. If you go to Pelican Parts, you'll find good DIY's on both of these jobs.

By the way, the coils and plugs fixed the misfires. This was the very same "first step" which I took, on my own M5, when it had misfires. (Unfortunately, on my car, this did not fix it, and it ended up being bad coil drivers inside the computer.) Always start with the most likely suspect.......

[WadiM3]

If you still require further proof, look at my latest thread that has been towed "1991 E36 318i M40" started misfiring and the first thing I also did was change the spark plugs! Then tested the coil which was fine. After that I decided to take a compression test and got the result of 0 compression on cylinder 4. I'm also attaching pictures of my sparkplugs

[MIKYZZ4]

Both actual and factual representations of how to begin with the lowest common denominator,
and then work up from there!
Sometimes complex problems are solved with the most basic and simplest of things.
You might ask how do I know this?, sorry I won't tell...LOL.

[MIKYZZ4]

PS-Wadi,
It's not that we dislike you,(you're a member here, we love you..lol)
It's more your choice of mechanics that you allow to work on your car,
plus the never ending quest to mod your engine,without you or your mechanic,
understanding the basic fundamentals behind it.

[donion]

thanks wadim3, good advice! my apologies to bmwdirtracer if I offended you somehow. I think I am gonna start with changing some vacume lines that look bad, then I will go with the tune up. I am just a stubborn old mechanic driving old 88 bronco and haven't changed plugs or parts in over 20+ years! I guess I got to keep in mind all the electronics-computer sensors these newer cars have, I hate it!

[WadiM3]

One more word of advise, id hate to argue with almost anything Chris (bmwdirtracer) says as he always gets the nail on the head and I will assure you he will reply to this comment by saying something like he has made more mistakes then anyone has but he just likes to be the underdog lol. Just read his signature it never fails to make me smile!

just know the guys here like Darin, Chris, Shadowpuck, Mikey and Abel (328 power), 323 e30 and the rest are extremely talented people who are a cut from a different cloth hell they don't even make that fabric no more!

[donion]

All coils but 1 went bad at once? Doubt that, that is why i cant let changing clutch go! Last job! What vacuume lines are down there that would cause no cel to come on but once when i forced it at 2000 & 3000 rpms steady. I got p1350 cyl 5 during start and 1352 cyl 6 during start. Bmw got live readings #2 ,3,5 misfires. Wish i could post obd2 findings hard to change thrittle position % unless i floor it fast, if i move pedal slow it stays at 0%

[WadiM3]

Didn't quite understand the update, sorry. You solved the issue or what?

[donion]

no still unsolved, I think I might have a vacuum leak but that is just a guess! I know mechanic left tailpipe hanging when he changed cluych so anything is possible and I found crumbled small hose, hose that goes to f tee at round intake housing near air filter to fuel pump reg. I taped up hose at in take but who knows what underside of car looks like under the splash guards. tps in closed position is very hard to get it to move even up to .8% degrees at 4000 rpms I get that reading , I wish I could post ob2 scan results long term fuel trim ,all stays at 7 shorts trim average-3

[bmwbob89]

If you didn't have the misfire problem before the clutch and starter I would be looking at what was done to the car. New problems don't usually happen right when your done with another repair. It is usually something that happened during that repair. If they had the starter out I would take a good look at the crank sensor and wire plug to it. It is located right under the starter and may have been damaged when the starter was replaced. That said you can swap the coils around and see if the misfire moves with them. That would confirm a bad coil. Also pull the spark plugs and inspect them.

[MIKYZZ4]

no still unsolved, I think I might have a vacuum leak but that is just a guess! I know mechanic left tailpipe hanging when he changed cluych so anything is possible and I found crumbled small hose, hose that goes to f tee at round intake housing near air filter to fuel pump reg. I taped up hose at in take but who knows what underside of car looks like under the splash guards. tps in closed position is very hard to get it to move even up to .8% degrees at 4000 rpms I get that reading , I wish I could post ob2 scan results long term fuel trim ,all stays at 7 shorts trim average-3

So, you think you might have an intake leak?
Replace all rubber intake boots,along with all associated hoses,
as they seem to be your primary problem.
After replacements are installed,clear codes,perform a short drive cycle,
then post back with newly displayed codes.

[kfrancen86]

donion, is the car in your possession or at the repair shop? if you have the car try removing the oil cap while the car is idling. see if a lot of effort is required to remove it. if it is hard to remove you may have a blown ccv causing your misfires. i think someone may have mentioned that already, but its a simple way to check for it.

[donion]

how would I check crank sensor? just look at the wires to it? that would seem to be the most logical place but 1 question is if it is in open loop wouldn't I not get the code for misfire during start or sener code & only when in closed loop? that mechanic kept telling me I need a harmonic-balancer in which I was surprised because everything was fine before he did clutch and I knew on a 95 buick the crank sensor was right behind the crank shaft until from following these posts I find out its inside the motor in the rear of engine so not possible! how could inside the senser get damaged and how do I test/ what would u do?

[MIKYZZ4]

I am just a stubborn old mechanic driving old 88 bronco and haven't changed plugs or parts in over 20+ years! I guess I got to keep in mind all the electronics-computer sensors these newer cars have, I hate it!

Perform a smoke test to confirm if you're experiencing intake leaks.
Followed by a proper diagnostic scan, with a BMW scan tool.

For a good BMW scan tool,I feel you have 3 options:

• Foxwell nt510:http://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesale...e-and-obd.html
• Carly for BMW:http://www.mycarly.com/product/bmw-app/
• INPA software for BMW: Do a search on bimmerforums

Don't forget to purchase the recommended cables for your model BMW.
Any of these options is a major improvement over the generic P-code scan tool.

[bmwbob89]

The sensor is mounted to the block with one screw. The sensor picks up the teeth on the ring gear that is inside the engine and mounted to the crankshaft. You really need to take this car to a shop and find out what is wrong. I would be going back to the shop who replaced the clutch since it ran fine before they replaced the clutch. Talk to the owner or manager and explain the situation.

[bmwbob89]

OK lets start this whole thing at the beginning. Answer some questions for me.
1. Did a BMW repair shop replace the clutch and starter?
2. Did the car run terrible when you picked it up at the shop?
3. Did you go right back there and tell them and have them look at it?
4. Its possible they either didn't get an intake rubber boot back on correctly or it cracked form age during the work.
You can with a flexible mirror and flashlight to look at them and see if they are cracked and on correctly.

[bmwdirtracer]

[donion]

no garage mechanic changed clutch after I stupidly gave key to a lot attendant which I didn't think he would move car , there was only 1 behind me. he didn't know how to drive a clutch , it was inside a building with a very steep driveway into basement of building. long story short I drove 2 blocks and that's all I got , he rode out clutch! the garage mechanic did the clutch and took out starter because a lot of parts jammed the starter so he saved me the cost of new starter. after he finished he said we have another problem , I need a new harmonic balancer! I could not afford this so I told him I would bring back. then I went to affiliated bmw dealer minhs auto and says coils or plugs are bad and they would start there with autologic tool . I don't believe all but 2 coils went bad after clutch job. his scanner only could get live readings misfires in cyl 2-3-5 and my generic tool I forced light to come on by chance it read p1350 mis fire cyl 5 during start and pending p1352 cyl 6 during start. no check engine light, but before clutch gas mileage was 26 now 11mpg. I only brought it there for my dsl light coming on and could not figure what problem was. they charged me $1300 to change steering collar sensor and tell me about changing wiper blades and fluids etc, what a waste of money, 10 mechanics working there about 75 keys on the board and all mechanics where on computers at their desk. maybe they took off fuel filter when taking off starter! small rubber intake at air filter f fitting that goes to fuel reg was bad I taped it up for now but I cant figure out why I cant get codes! will it pass inspection like this with no light on? any ideas? sorry to go on! rubber boot your talking about if its the plug I don't believe they touched that part of engine, first time in shop only 35000 miles,

[White94RX]

I'm sorry I missed this thread!

dirtracer, pass the popcorn! LOL

[bmwdirtracer]

We're past the popcorn now, moving on to something stronger. Here, have one:



Wait, not good enough.



After all, there's no way a sixteen year old M54 could need coils and plugs, smoke test and valvecover gasket. Because that wouldn't be someone else's fault...

[donion]

The whole point is nothing was wrong before the clutch change! Then he tells me i need a harmonic balancer! Smoke test fine & valve cover not leaking! Onlything else he could have touched is fuel filter or crank senor which would throw a cel i think for sensor! Maybe vacumme leakfuel pump or reg! I guess its time to invest in old american car or truck! Easy to fix & parts cheap!

[MIKYZZ4]

Perform a smoke test to confirm if you're experiencing intake leaks.
Followed by a proper diagnostic scan, with a BMW scan tool.

For a good BMW scan tool,I feel you have 3 options:

• Foxwell nt510:http://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesale...e-and-obd.html
• Carly for BMW:http://www.mycarly.com/product/bmw-app/
• INPA software for BMW: Do a search on bimmerforums

Don't forget to purchase the recommended cables for your model BMW.
Any of these options is a major improvement over the generic P-code scan tool.

The mechanic who did that clutch job, does not know how to diagnose a BMW!

[donion]

I can see that now but he sure does get alot of work! Alot of cars in that shop even closes on weekend, i wont be going there no longer cause it will just turn into a fight with all the info i learned here! For example crank sensor is in the rear of engine not the front behind balancer like on buick 1995

- - - Updated - - -

IS YOUR RECCOMENDATIONS FOR SCAN TOOLS IN THAT ORDER YOU WROTE?

[MIKYZZ4]

Yes,
I don't doubt that he is very familiar with possibly all models of GM vehicles, or even Ford,Chrysler...etc.
The real question you ask: Is he very familiar with all models of BMW?
If he does not even know the locations of basic BMW sensors, such as Crankshaft position sensor,
I wonder what his answer would be to location of Camshaft position sensors?,
let alone harder to locate sensors! Stay away!

I don't doubt that his shop is busy,
but is it full of foreign or domestic vehicles ?
I assume domestic, as he probably is an old school mechanic, who works on majority domestic vehicles.