Never done before m52 turbo build .

[OverNine000]

Hey everyone !

Been lurking for a while and seeing everyone doing big numbers on a relatively tight budget made me want to go the same route. I'll be doing the same as everyone as already done, but wanted to get your input before going all in. As for me, I love learning new things so I thought doing a turbo build would be a very good ''hobby'' while giving me the opportunity to research, learn and mainly get results.

So I have in mind a very DIY build. I want to do as much as I can. So right now, I'm asking your opinions before starting the project for real (engine is on stand right now, so the process really begins now). I want to weld, cut, plan and tune it by myself (fine tuning + numbers by a pro at the end)

My goal :
I'm aiming for a 400 whp fun street car with some occasionnal track day and just some messing around.

What I have right now :
An unknown millage m52b28 (was given to me, the guy had an e36 laying on his property and the wifey politely asked him to get rid of it or else, so it's now laying on my property )
The m52 got an obdI conversion with an m50 manifold. I got an m52 manifold + obd2 conversion laying around (m50 tb and m52 tb also)
Got a zf and a getrag tranny
Got a 3.23 lsd
Got a ms41 and a 413 red label

The plan :
M52b28 OBD II, tuned with RomRaider (and all that good stuff) - Chose OBD II for diagnostic and logging functions + Launch control + tuning support
Cx racing turbo manfiold + turbo (I know, I know ... I'll get a real turbo next year, just want to begin somewhere and not drop a 1000$ only for the turbo, I'm canadian so our money is not worth shit atm. If I can get a year out of it, why not ? )
.140 mls + arp head studs (resurfacing the head, 20 RA finish)
Fx racing stage III clutch Link (Chromoly flywheel)
255 or 340 lph fuel pump on stock regulator (depending on what I can source here on the cheap)
Injectors : Thinking about 60 lb Siemens Deka
Maf : Thinking about a 350 maf since the maps are already defined on RomRaider
Monitoring : Custom Arduino mega 3,2 inch dispay module for boost, oil pressure, coolant temp, revs, A/F. Thinking about making my own boost controller with that, might even do a boost by gear function later on and all that (when the car will be well running, which is a long way from now) + logging.
Wideband is an Innovate LC-2

My questions :
Since I'm opening the engine, I'll be doing rods bearings. Should I be doing crank too ? Also, is there a real advantage using ARP bolts for the rods or OEM stretch bolts should do just fine (30 us vs 100 us) : I could reuse arp if I plan upgrading rods at a later time
Is there something special about the rods + crank (if necessary) bearings I should be aware of ? Thickness or else.

Is there something you guys see that makes no sense ? Feel free to comment, as I said earlier, I'm doing this mainly to learn and have fun.

Again, thank you very much for your input, really appreciate it and of course, will post pics of said project.

EDIT : Found the post to be very depressing without pics, so here we go.
Picture 1 : The car as it is sitting right now. Will paint it camo green and put a big ass spoiler, fender flares (black) and some diamond wheels on it. It's a 318i btw.
Picture 2 : Teh junkyard. You can see the donor car top right corner.
Picture 3 : The cuties. (I think I have something for BMWs ...)
20170915_154704.jpg20170915_1547218.jpg20170916_170350.jpg

[spenka]

Hey everyone !

Been lurking for a while and seeing everyone doing big numbers on a relatively tight budget made me want to go the same route. I'll be doing the same as everyone as already done, but wanted to get your input before going all in. As for me, I love learning new things so I thought doing a turbo build would be a very good ''hobby'' while giving me the opportunity to research, learn and mainly get results.

So I have in mind a very DIY build. I want to do as much as I can. So right now, I'm asking your opinions before starting the project for real (engine is on stand right now, so the process really begins now). I want to weld, cut, plan and tune it by myself (fine tuning + numbers by a pro at the end)

My goal :
I'm aiming for a 400 whp fun street car with some occasionnal track day and just some messing around.

What I have right now :
An unknown millage m52b28 (was given to me, the guy had an e36 laying on his property and the wifey politely asked him to get rid of it or else, so it's now laying on my property )
The m52 got an obdI conversion with an m50 manifold. I got an m52 manifold + obd2 conversion laying around (m50 tb and m52 tb also)
Got a zf and a getrag tranny
Got a 3.23 lsd
Got a ms41 and a 413 red label

The plan :
M52b28 OBD II, tuned with RomRaider (and all that good stuff) - Chose OBD II for diagnostic and logging functions + Launch control + tuning support
Cx racing turbo manfiold + turbo (I know, I know ... I'll get a real turbo next year, just want to begin somewhere and not drop a 1000$ only for the turbo, I'm canadian so our money is not worth shit atm. If I can get a year out of it, why not ? )
.140 mls + arp head studs (resurfacing the head, 20 RA finish)
Fx racing stage III clutch Link (Chromoly flywheel)
255 or 340 lph fuel pump on stock regulator (depending on what I can source here on the cheap)
Injectors : Thinking about 60 lb Siemens Deka
Maf : Thinking about a 350 maf since the maps are already defined on RomRaider
Monitoring : Custom Arduino mega 3,2 inch dispay module for boost, oil pressure, coolant temp, revs, A/F. Thinking about making my own boost controller with that, might even do a boost by gear function later on and all that (when the car will be well running, which is a long way from now) + logging.
Wideband is an Innovate LC-2

My questions :
Since I'm opening the engine, I'll be doing rods bearings. Should I be doing crank too ? Also, is there a real advantage using ARP bolts for the rods or OEM stretch bolts should do just fine (30 us vs 100 us) : I could reuse arp if I plan upgrading rods at a later time
Is there something special about the rods + crank (if necessary) bearings I should be aware of ? Thickness or else.

Is there something you guys see that makes no sense ? Feel free to comment, as I said earlier, I'm doing this mainly to learn and have fun.

Again, thank you very much for your input, really appreciate it and of course, will post pics of said project.

You absolutely need these 2 books!


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[OverNine000]

Hey spenka ! Already got my hand on the Bentley manual, but didn't know of the Motorbooks one. Will def. look it up on Amazon !!

[SilburE36]

Subscribed cuz I’m in the middle of a very slow going build with very similar goals and hardware as yours.


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[OverNine000]

Subscribed cuz I’m in the middle of a very slow going build with very similar goals and hardware as yours.

Did you hit any major problems yet ? What were they / what would you do differently ?

[SilburE36]

Did you hit any major problems yet ? What were they / what would you do differently ?

No problems yet.

However, I would not have opened up the bottom end of my engine and replaced all the bearings. That got expensive quick.
I would have also studded the head with ARPs and run the stock HG in preparation for E85. Instead I bought a Cometic 0.140 which I ended up not using. Initially I thought I was going to run pump 93 with lower compression.

Then a gas station with E85 just opened down the street from me, so that was a no-brainer!

Run a compression test on your motor-should give you a good idea what shape it’s in.


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[OverNine000]

No problems yet.

However, I would not have opened up the bottom end of my engine and replaced all the bearings. That got expensive quick.
I would have also studded the head with ARPs and run the stock HG in preparation for E85. Instead I bought a Cometic 0.140 which I ended up not using. Initially I thought I was going to run pump 93 with lower compression.

Then a gas station with E85 just opened down the street from me, so that was a no-brainer!

Run a compression test on your motor-should give you a good idea what shape it’s in.


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Since I have the engine on a stand, I can't do a compression test (had in mind to do at the very least rings, rod bearings + hg so that was a no brainer).

Unfortunately, there is no e85 where I live (have to get it at the airport, and that's not the most convenient thing ever haha !). Willing to sell + ship that .140 to Canada ?

[Mklock]

Good luck, should be entertaining.

[ba114]

Seems like a fairly tried and true setup as far as hardware goes.
Skip doing the bearings. Not needed unless you've already sighted significant wear.

Make sure to check the latest update for the 350z maf. I've refined the curve better fairly recently.

[NIMOOLN]

Good info, Thanks


aaaautospa.com

[OverNine000]

Seems like a fairly tried and true setup as far as hardware goes.
Skip doing the bearings. Not needed unless you've already sighted significant wear.

Make sure to check the latest update for the 350z maf. I've refined the curve better fairly recently.

Thanks for your input on the 350z, really appreciate what you guys are doing on RomRaider !

As for the bearings, were you talking about the main (crank) bearing or the whole thing ?

[spenka]

Hey spenka ! Already got my hand on the Bentley manual, but didn't know of the Motorbooks one. Will def. look it up on Amazon !!

Another thread I would recommend being apart of is 'the lounge'. It's athread in the New England section. You may not be in New England but the main guys in there has EXTENSIVE knowledge on boosting. I've seen their cars in person and every single one is well built and pushing at least 700hp. Another good thread to read also, IMHO, is Thompson501's build. He was a newby as well to boosting e36 and he received extensive, solid and trustworthy info from the guys in the lounge.
To find the lounge and thompson501 (I hope I'm getting his username right) just look in my post history and you'll see my posts there then just subscribe to the threads.


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[SilburE36]

[QUOTE=As for the bearings, were you talking about the main (crank) bearing or the whole thing ?[/QUOTE]

I ended up replacing the con rod bearings and the mains. Probably didn’t need to. However, the bolts are torque to yield so ya really can’t re-use the ones that came out.

If it ain’t broke don’t fix it, and If it doesn’t need to be taken apart don’t take it apart!!!


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[SCapelo]

Yeah if anything i'd just do rod bearings, my main bearings were almost perfect at 180k. Rod bearings had a good amount of scoring. If it were me I'd slap a cut-ring / spacer / arp combo and letterip, don't even bother touching the bottom end besides the pan. But it all depends on what you're willing to spend. I'd also strongly recommend welding / loctite / safety wire the oil pump nut for peace of mind