So I have some idea of where to set these baseline (Thanks to Vorshlag and Bimmerworld) but I'd like to get more info on dialing them in.
My car is a 98 M3, UUC sway barbarians, 600lb front springs and 800lb rear springs, tires are 235-40-17 Toyo RR's, but I may spring for a set of 245 Hoosier R7's. My home tracks are High Plains Raceway and Pueblo Motorsports Park.
Where are you guys setting these and how are you playing with them based on conditions?
Thanks!
'03 911 Turbo 6MT fun car
'18 Toyota Land Cruiser Daily driver/Ski Machine/Off Roader
'15 Cayenne Diesel Wife's DD
'17 KTM 690 "Adv" 2 wheeled Adventurer
I have higher spring rates (800/900) but I found I liked settings pretty close to what BW recommended as a starting point
Same here.
I get my best lap times using the Bimmerworld set-up.
You have to get used to it. It's stiff but it works !
650/800, GC bars, 255 NT01, 2950lb w/o driver, no aero.
I pretty much just use the BW settings, a click or two stiffer IIRC. They're pretty spot on.
To figure that out though, I autocrossed the car and found that slightly modified BW settings worked the best there, then went to the track and it was great there too, and haven't messed with them much since. I wouldn't say these are final settings but I'm very happy with how the car behaves in both disciplines.
For changing conditions, the one time I was at a rainy track day I used the BW settings for that, and it was magical.
TL;DR-- use the BW settings as a starting point, then tinker with it and take notes, and don't be surprised if you don't deviate much.
Last edited by Bimmerman535i; 03-07-2018 at 05:58 PM.
"Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit
1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles
Concur, post #4 good starting point.
What rebound/compression settings are you running? I've got 700/900 springs on my track car. This is on a newly built car with different mods so the baseline should be different from the previous car.
I bought 1WNRs from Bimmerworld and their secret sauce turned out to be "Set them in the middle and tweak from there as needed." I told them i expected to get something a little better than that and they basically said it was a work in progress. I guess you have to spend 2W money before you get good info. Disappointing.
Dan, hate to tell you but the "White Paper" from them for the 2WNR is much the same...
'03 911 Turbo 6MT fun car
'18 Toyota Land Cruiser Daily driver/Ski Machine/Off Roader
'15 Cayenne Diesel Wife's DD
'17 KTM 690 "Adv" 2 wheeled Adventurer
Has anyone here tested 1 way mcs vs 2 way vs 2 way remotes etc.
Curious as to how much faster the car would be when properly setup with all other things being equal. Ie is it worth spending an extra $2000 for 2 way remotes over the singles. Are we talking a second per lap or significantly less?
Last edited by VRT; 03-18-2018 at 03:04 PM.
I don't really fault the "White Paper" settings being roughly in the middle. With the all variances between spring rates, sway bars, bushings, tires, tracks, and driving styles there isn't one answer. IIRC the 2WNR setup sheet does provide some guidance as to how to tune from the baseline, but a lot of it is personal preference.
97 M3 - SCCA TT Prepped
17 F150 - Tow Pig
05 S2000 - Sold
88 325is - S52 powered - Sold
95 M3 LTW Rep - Death by Altima
Hmm, I didn't feel like there was a ton of specific info in it. Mostly, set it close to the middle, then start playing with it two clicks in either direction and see what you like...
'03 911 Turbo 6MT fun car
'18 Toyota Land Cruiser Daily driver/Ski Machine/Off Roader
'15 Cayenne Diesel Wife's DD
'17 KTM 690 "Adv" 2 wheeled Adventurer
You know how they say these higher end shocks make stiff springs feel comfy? Well its true! I finally got my car on the ground and went for a test drive on my super crappy streets (outside of Boston). 600/700# springs and the 1WNR shocks set to 2 the car rides better than my stock 2017 Golf. Incredible. Much better than even my previous TCK DAs with the compression set soft.
I sure hope the amazingness continues on track.
Definitely. Much better ride with the 2WNR and my 600/800# springs vs my old SA Koni's.
'03 911 Turbo 6MT fun car
'18 Toyota Land Cruiser Daily driver/Ski Machine/Off Roader
'15 Cayenne Diesel Wife's DD
'17 KTM 690 "Adv" 2 wheeled Adventurer
It's insane. Last night i drove the car 45min to the race shop from my house north of Boston, through towns, down through the city tunnels and out the other side. All kinds of nasty roads at low and high speed (no traffic at night). No car has ever felt that good driving through there. There is still a limit to the overall travel, so if you hit a 4" whoop, the chassis will rise more than like an SUV, but all the sharp chattery stuff, cracks, joints, one layer deep pot holes.. practically disappear. I imagine this is how $100k Mercedes must ride. It feels very "premium". I'll honestly probably drive the car to work once in awhile now. I used to never touch it except to/from events.
It's also nice to have that damn TCK DA rear shock clacking gone.
Today i drove the Golf to work and it felt like shit. Now i need MCSs for the DD golf?
Crap. Just when I'd convinced myself to stay with my TCK SAs. I'll be interested to hear your opinion after a track session.
"Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit
1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles
No clue, if I'm honest.
When I installed them, I noticed a difference driving and tuning with them, but I am not sure I was consistent enough to notice the difference with a stopwatch. I didn't keep a close eye on lap time until recently.
I'm still on my set from 2013. They're truly amazing shocks.
"Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit
1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles
Looking forward to getting my car on track to see what the difference is.
How tight are the rear shock top nuts supposed to be? I ran the first jam nut down until I could see the rear shock mount bushing begin to deflect some, then ran down the jam nut. However I'm getting a lot of clunking noise from the rear, really sounds like the rear shock mounts...
'03 911 Turbo 6MT fun car
'18 Toyota Land Cruiser Daily driver/Ski Machine/Off Roader
'15 Cayenne Diesel Wife's DD
'17 KTM 690 "Adv" 2 wheeled Adventurer
It's probably not the shock mounts. Both MCS and Vorshlag confirm that the 2WNR rear shocks can make a knocking or clunking noise,primarily at low speeds over sharp impacts like expansion joints which is the only time I hear it. I switched from Vorshlag spherical RSMs to Rogues and the noise persists. Pretty sure Bimmerman 535i has the same experience as discussed on another forum. Still love the suspension though
Mike Kenney
E46 M3
Wow, that's interesting that the MCS doubles clunk like the TCK doubles did. I hope its not as bad as the TCKs, that drove me insane. With MCS singles, there is zero noise in the back using GC poly RSMs with the poly bushings in "stiff" mode. I also tightened them to snug on the poly, but not enough to deform it.
Also running MCS 2-way NR. The ride quality with big springs is amazing.
Also echo the odd "clunk" sounds that I get. I thought it was the rear shock mounts; it's not. I also thought it may be the battery. Neither one seems to be the issue.
I took the car off the road. It's track only at this point, so I don't really care. All insulation, etc. is stripped out so the clunk is the last thing I care about with respect to noise!
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