Member
I wanted to change my spark plugs, but I was not able to remove the #6 coil pack. It was stuck and I was afraid if I pulled to hard, it might come apart inside the spark plug well. The spark plug well scares the living daylights out of me. What is weird is that I replaced this coil pack abouty a year ago. Do you think I put too much di-electric grease and now there is some kind of air tight suction going on? I replaced the other 5 plugs, and called it a day. Did not want to push my luck.
Is this common? What would you do?
I had a misfire and decided to change the coil pack and spark plug.
While I was there, I thought I'd replace all 6 spark plugs.
They were the original 110k mile BMW plugs.
Changing plugs on these Euro cars is scary.
The plugs are recessed fully out of sight.
If you break the plug, strip the plug, get the socket stuck on the plug.....
I don't even know WTF happens then.....
This is nothing like old American cars and my dirtbike from High school, where the spark plug is fully exposed. What is the difference?
Here are the 5 plugs at 110k miles.
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
Wagon meister :)
BMW Tech Expert
The dielectric grease will not make a seal like that, perhaps the boot was old and dry and really sucked up the grease. Is it the pencil type coils, or the older coil and boot style? What year of M52TU/M54 are we talking about here?
Yes those plugs are normal, but you should replace them at 100k, not that it would have made much of a difference.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Member
5 of 6 plugs already replaced.
The boots are like this
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
Apprentice w/#yrs. exp.
Maybe I'm OCD, but I have never attempted to see if my spark plugs could make it to 100k miles, on any vehicle I have owned.
(Copper core, Platinum, whatever!) 30k~50k miles or 5yrs - whichever comes first.
Try pulling, combined with a twisting/wiggling back and forth action on that coil.
Wagon meister :)
BMW Tech Expert
+1
That's the old style boot, so if it comes down to it, just yank away. If it does leave the boot behind on the sparkplug, just cut if off with a thin saw or box cutters.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Member
If I yank the coil part, and it separates from the connector boot,
and the boot is stuck inside the cavity, how would you remove it?
I don't think a needlenose can fit down into the cavity.
What's the best tool to somehow cut away the boot so you can get the spark plug socket on there,
and just remove the fused boot/plug combination as one unit ?
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
Wagon meister :)
BMW Tech Expert
A long handle needle nose pliers normally works for me, but you can always try to cut it with one of these, a keyhole saw: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-27...ds=keyhole+saw
Or a knife that has a thin blade that you can use to slice the boot open with, as that should free it up as well.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Member
I never did this. It still bothers me. That #6 plug is now on 145k miles.
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
Member
You should really get in there and handle that spark plug situation. It probably won't be that bad.
If it seems impossibly stuck, you could try spraying some wd40 or something into the tube and trying to work the coil boot loose.
Apprentice w/#yrs. exp.
Pry up slightly with screwdriver, pull up coil, while twisting hard.
Member
This only applies if the coil pack separates from the boot, right?Originally Posted by nonturbodan
Then you mean to pour WD40 inside the boot so it flows to the bottom where the boot joins the spark plug?
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
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