Anyone have any ideas on this no crank, no fuel pressure, no start issue

**vr6dubny** · 03-05-2018, 10:41 PM

I have had a post in the m3 forum for like a week. Not a single response. Thought maybe someone in here may have an idea.

car is a 1995 with a 10/95 build date. Ews2 obd1, worst combo ever.

I have 2 different ecu’s, both with immobilizer delete tunes.

On Jan 3rd I went to start my car to pull out of the garage and the battery was low. I charged the battery and started the car without issue and backed it out into driveway. 2 days later...mind you in 10 degree temps I went to start car to pull it back into garage. I had power to car but no start. I threw car on charger again because I thought battery may be low....but still nothing.

car has no fuel pressure...I have a fuel pressure gauge
car has no crank
car has ce light, full cluster power, on board computer has power, radio has power, heater has power

So as to where I am now.

I have tried both tunes...in 2 different ecu's
2 different keys
made sure car wasn't in double lock
swapped the dme relay
swapped fuel pump relay
I have jumped fuel pump relay....fuel pump runs when jumped
I have checked for power at power pins at relays...has power
I have swapped ews ring at ignition
I have swapped ignition switch
I have made sure engine turns over by hand (it does)
I have rolled car and popped clutch make sure starter wasn't engaging flywheel (it's not)
ground strap should be good

does anyone have any ideas?

I have a couple...1 being the ews transmitter
I can trace continuity on wiring but not even sure where to start on that
would a failed fuseable link give me full power but no start?

**StRaNgEdAyS** · 03-05-2018, 10:45 PM

Originally Posted by vr6dubny

I have had a post in the m3 forum for like a week. Not a single response. Thought maybe someone in here may have an idea.

I have 2 different ecu’s, both with immobilizer delete tunes.

On Jan 3rd I went to start my car to pull out of the garage and the battery was low. I charged the battery and started the car without issue and backed it out into driveway. 2 days later...mind you in 10 degree temps I went to start car to pull it back into garage. I had power to car but no start. I threw car on charger again because I thought battery may be low....but still nothing.

car has no fuel pressure...I have a fuel pressure gauge
car has no crank
car has ce light, full cluster power, on board computer has power, radio has power, heater has power

So as to where I am now.

I have tried both tunes...in 2 different ecu's
2 different keys
made sure car wasn't in double lock
swapped the dme relay
swapped fuel pump relay
I have jumped fuel pump relay....fuel pump runs when jumped
I have checked for power at power pins at relays...has power
I have swapped ews ring at ignition
I have swapped ignition switch
I have made sure engine turns over by hand (it does)
I have rolled car and popped clutch make sure starter wasn't engaging flywheel (it's not)
ground strap should be good

does anyone have any ideas?

I have a couple...1 being the ews transmitter
I can trace continuity on wiring but not even sure where to start on that
would a failed fuseable link give me full power but no start?

Can you check the modules in. INPA to see if there are any codes, or if they can be seen at all?

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**vr6dubny** · 03-05-2018, 11:01 PM

Forget to mention. Car is a 1995 obd1. I do not have immediate access to any code readers

**Smurf36** · 03-05-2018, 11:35 PM

Won't crank or won't start
How many miles are on it

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**Smurf36** · 03-05-2018, 11:35 PM

And have you tried to stomp test it.

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**m3boost** · 03-05-2018, 11:36 PM

do this...get jumper cables...you will only be using one side either the negative or positive..so for now lets just say the positive side(red).. connect one side of the (red) to a bolt on the shock tower...take the other side of the cable(red) and clamp it to the lift ring by the vanos..now crank the car.. if it starts, replace the chassis ground cable located from the passenger motor mount bracket to the chassis...it's a short cable..they sell similar cable anywhere they sell battery terminals.

**vr6dubny** · 03-05-2018, 11:54 PM

Stomp test comes out good. I will toss another block ground on tomorrow.

no crank, no fuel pressure. Car will not run

**crazyyardie** · 03-06-2018, 06:33 AM

You have to bypass the ews since you have a ews deleted dme

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**vr6dubny** · 03-06-2018, 08:06 AM

not true...both ecu's started the car fine for months. Nick G requires all ews wiring/modules be in place. RK does not care what is there or deleted it seems. I am just wondering if the transmitter isn't sending a start signal it won't even cause the ecu to fire or not.

the car started fine...until it didn't.

**dburt86** · 03-06-2018, 08:19 AM

Put it on standalone

**E36Mylo** · 03-06-2018, 03:14 PM

Check the battery power cable that goes in through the passenger side into the trunk. Theres a fuse taped up in it that could be burnt out. Check to see on the jump post on the passenger side if all the posts are getting power. Not sure if its the issue, but i've had this happen to me. Car left me stranded twice and i bought new relays, everything, to then find out it was a bad connection with that power cable. lol

**XnWarden** · 03-06-2018, 10:14 PM

Originally Posted by E36Mylo

Check the battery power cable that goes in through the passenger side into the trunk. Theres a fuse taped up in it that could be burnt out. Check to see on the jump post on the passenger side if all the posts are getting power. Not sure if its the issue, but i've had this happen to me. Car left me stranded twice and i bought new relays, everything, to then find out it was a bad connection with that power cable. lol

Good tip. I'm having a similar problem to OP on my car but im N/A for now

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**328iFun** · 03-07-2018, 08:29 PM

+1 on fuse. Check it

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**jjjjjjj** · 03-08-2018, 10:17 PM

+1 ‘Fusible link’ is that part mentioned, should be between the battery and the backseat somewhere under/behind the carpet panels. I had the same problem and was diagnosed by the car getting 12v but dme getting very little, like 2v in my case... just enough for a stomp test lol

Also, did you consider snipping the ews wire? I have a 1995 as well and no real point in keeping it. Maybe I’m crazy but the car seems to crank much easier since this was done. Pretty sure it’s the green wire near the fuse box in the harness that totally bypasses it, in fact I’ve done troubleshooting with red and silver label 413 dme’s no prob. Other than that the only odd culprit could be a crank or cam position sensor - crank sensor will also give those exact symptoms and I surely chased that problem for a while after no luck hard wiring the fuel pump or jumping the fuel pump relay.

Good luck

Edit- sorry missed the part about the Nick G tune

**Smurf36** · 03-08-2018, 10:20 PM

Originally Posted by jjjjjjj

+1 ‘Fusible link’ is that part mentioned, should be between the battery and the backseat somewhere under/behind the carpet panels. I had the same problem and was diagnosed by the car getting 12v but dme getting very little, like 2v in my case... just enough for a stomp test lol

Also, did you consider snipping the ews wire? I have a 1995 as well and no real point in keeping it. Maybe I’m crazy but the car seems to crank much easier since this was done. Pretty sure it’s the green wire near the fuse box in the harness that totally bypasses it, in fact I’ve done troubleshooting with red and silver label 413 dme’s no prob. Other than that the only odd culprit could be a crank or cam position sensor - crank sensor will also give those exact symptoms and I surely chased that problem for a while after no luck hard wiring the fuel pump or jumping the fuel pump relay.

Good luck

Edit- sorry missed the part about the Nick G tune

I had thought it was possibly a crank sensor as well.

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**M3poseur** · 03-08-2018, 10:21 PM

Have you test the starter?

**jjjjjjj** · 03-08-2018, 10:21 PM

It’s a sneaky sob. Impossible to test accurately iirc.

Oh and you might want to go OEM. Pretty sure I had no luck with a knockoff but a junkyard one did the trick

Also one more idea...... def not recommended but you *can* jump all the hot wires together and bypass the distribution block, just attach them all to a bolt. Everything gets full 12v and the car will fire up no prob if you have a flakey or bad fusible link or other random wiring problem in that neighborhood. Mine has been like this for some time I’m not proud

Worst case you can put it in the garage with that terrible trick. My fingers would cease functioning if they ever got that cold lol...

**XnWarden** · 03-10-2018, 08:53 AM

Originally Posted by XnWarden

Good tip. I'm having a similar problem to OP on my car but im N/A for now

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I fixed my problem by connecting jumper cables to the vanos bracket and shock tower as suggested above. So my problem turned out to be the ground strap. Any word on yours OP?

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