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Thread: Camber Plate Question

  1. #1
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    Camber Plate Question

    I'm still in my infant stages of learning about suspension (although I've refreshed the entire suspension back in 2010) and have questions about the Phoenix Motorsport camber plates (or was it MWrench).

    I have H&R springs with Bilstein Sports up front. The strut mount is in need of replacement. I have the entire strut out and discovered the hex nuts are completely rusted and I have sprayed it with PB blaster and left it sitting for a few days. Can't get them out still.

    So, the question is:
    If I install new strut mounts without the camber plate, will it affect alignment badly? From the readings I have done so far, the camber plates are supposed to allow the camber angle change as well as address the understeer issue. Anyone has a set that wants to sell?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    I think the issue with the Phoenix plates was that the camber may be a bit too aggressive for everyday street driving (but not insane). To install camber plates you basically have to cut off and knock out the existing studs. There is no going back as it permanently modifies them.

    That said, I have been dying to put mine in. Let me know how they turn out.

  3. #3
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by toomanyparts View Post
    I think the issue with the Phoenix plates was that the camber may be a bit too aggressive for everyday street driving (but not insane). To install camber plates you basically have to cut off and knock out the existing studs. There is no going back as it permanently modifies them.

    That said, I have been dying to put mine in. Let me know how they turn out.
    You're reading my post incorrectly, TooManyParts. I have the camber plates in the car but have to take the struts out to replace a worn strut mount on the driver's side.
    Problem is, the nuts holding the camber plate and strut mount are completed rusted and can't get them out. Other than that, it shouldn't be difficult, mainly just lots of elbow grease.


  4. #4
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    I'm sorry. I can't read.

    I would try a few things first -
    1. Pb blaster or similar. Let it soak for a bit and then see if you can't get some movement.

    2. Crc freeze off. Had some luck in the past.

    3. What I do for stripped bolts and nuts is get a standard socket that is slightly smaller and beat it over the head of the nut until it is basically one part and then breaker bar. Has always worked for me, but last resort.

    I would think you would need an alignment after reverting back to not using the plates, but perhaps somdone who knows for certain can confirm/deny.
    Last edited by toomanyparts; 03-06-2018 at 10:39 AM.
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  5. #5
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by toomanyparts View Post

    I would think you would need an alignment after reverting back to not using the plates, but perhaps somdone who knows for certain can confirm/deny.
    Yes, correct. An alignment job is necessary. Finished the job at 3am this morning. Replaced both struts without the need for spring compressor tool. It took me about 4 hours on one side but only about 45 minutes on the other after I figured it out. The only part of the front suspension that needs unbolting other than the strut mount and separating it from the strut insert is the sway bar link (item #6). I used a lower profile car jack, a bottle jack, and a couple pieces of scrap 2x4 that is cut to 14" and 10" sections. Bottle jack and 2x4 were used to jack up the strut to help remove the sway bar link, and to release the spring tension, as well as to help in reinserting the strut shaft back into the strut mount.



    - - - Updated - - -

    Ah, good idea, DriftGirl. I didn't think of that. I did saved those camber plates so will try that.

  7. #7
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    ^
    Just cut them off with a slitting disc. If you are replacing the mount anyway, then refit to new mount with new bolts?

    The bolts shouldn't rust, as the original Phoenix MS bolts are A2 stainless.

  8. #8
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    Those camber plates are useless on a lowered car, Your just inviting inner tire ware, Wrong camber direction. A option of camber adjustment is needed or adjustable camber plates.

  9. #9
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    Those camber plates are useless on a lowered car, Your just inviting inner tire ware, Wrong camber direction. A option of camber adjustment is needed or adjustable camber plates.

    No issues on mine (Phoenix MS). No tyre wear, quicker steering.

    They make around 1 Deg. more negative camber.

    Why are they "wrong direction", I wouldn't want to fit positive camber plates.
    Last edited by e31gixxxer; 03-09-2018 at 07:18 AM.

  10. #10
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    My car is running without the camber plates now and steering/turning actually feels a little bit slower and not as crisp...a bit of understeer is what I would describe it.

    The front tires all seem to be evenly worn evenly so no signs of excess wear on the inside of the tires. I had the car in for an alignment several years ago and I remember the tech asked if I had any type of camber plates on as he noticed the negative camber. I can't remember what he tried to adjust the camber angle to and I didn't keep the printout.

  11. #11
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    ^
    There is no factory adjustment on the front for camber, but fitting/removing the camber plates with have an impact on the other variables such as castor, toe.

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