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Thread: Trunk locked, won't open!

  1. #1
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    Trunk locked, won't open!

    So I installed the new trunk actuator over the past couple of weeks and now instead of not closing, the trunk will not open. I connected the wires correctly, the only thing that I might have had done wrong is the latch hook was installed coming over the top of the hole instead of the bottom. No clue really what I did. However, the trunk button underneath the dash does not work, nor does the button on the key fob. Why aren't these parts working at all? Basically all the electronics in my car are shot and failing.

  2. #2
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    Pardon me being Capt Obvious but did you try using the key in the lock on the trunk? Failing that there’s a method of drilling a hole behind the license plate and getting it open. Used to be a link on e38.org before that vanished.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  3. #3
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    Yeah I tried inputting the key.


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  4. #4
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    Head to:

    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

    and look for the 'Tailgate' wiring, to start troubleshooting from the fuses.

  5. #5
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    What position is the trunk lock cylinder? If it is horizontal ( -- ) ...then the interior trunk release button will not open because the trunk is in VALET mode.
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  6. #6
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    - But it would open with the remote and the OP has tried that

  7. #7
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    Since there is FZV (regular central locking system) which would include the central locking button, the trunk release button, and manually locking the car with the trunk and driver's door lock cylinders...and FBZV (remote central locking) which is the use of the remote key...sometimes the FBZV system can be non functioning...but regular FZV initiation still functions. That's why I asked about the trunk lock cylinder position.

    The FZV commands will travel over ( I believe) the K & P bus...where as the FBZV commands will travel from the remote through the air to the aerial embedded in the rear window (or rear left cargo window on the SAVs & Tourings)...then travel up to the GM where the commands are sent to FZV & DWA to lock/unlock and arm/disarm the vehicle.

    {FBZV - remote locking: signal is transmitted through air...picked up by FZV amp located in the C pillar...then travels up to the GM over the K-bus & P-bus}






    {FZV - central locking: command is sent over K & P bus}

    Last edited by Qsilver7; 03-05-2018 at 04:57 PM.
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  8. #8
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    The trunk key is in the vertical position.


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  9. #9
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  10. #10
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    If you have used the key and turned it a full 90 to the left and it won't open, you have a mechanical issue. Doesn't matter how it's wired, that should open the lid.

  11. #11
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    I had a similar issue, ended up down the drill a hole behind the number plate route
    later replaced the rear portion in the boot so back to no holes

  12. #12
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    So the only way is to drill a hole into the license plate?

    - - - Updated - - -

    QSilver7, so once I open the trunk, how can I sync the systems together so the trunk button under the dash and the on the key fob work properly?

  13. #13
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    Yip, behind the license plate. Only way I’ve heard to do it

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramacher View Post

    QSilver7, so once I open the trunk, how can I sync the systems together so the trunk button under the dash and the on the key fob work properly?
    The interior trunk release button and central lock/unlock button on the center console will only open the trunk when the trunk's lock cylinder is in the vertical ( | ) position. If the trunk lock cylinder is horizontal ( -- )...they won't unlock the trunk because the trunk is in VALET mode.

    The remote key will lock/unlock the trunk when everything is working 100% with the central locking system (FZV) and remote locking system (FBZV).

    • FZV = doors, trunk, and fuel filler door
    • FBZV = remote keys, aerial in rear window (or rear left cargo window on the Touring & SAVs), FZV amp in C pillar




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  15. #15
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    All of the locks (front driver and trunk) have their locks in the vertical position. Still the button under the dash or the button on the key fob doesn't work.

  16. #16
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    Does it appear that your trunk lock actuator has lost electrical power? Or just communication with the GM, only? Have you checked the wiring bundled in the corrugated rubber grommet that goes from the trunk area into the body of the car? Sometimes a wire (or multiple wires) break over time of the opening/closing of the trunk.

    Chaffed/cracked/broken wires in the loom from the trunk/tailgate to the body of the car is kind of common in the e39 & e46...but their loom is shorter than the e38's. But that doesn't count out that it could still occur on the e38's longer bundled harness:



    Last edited by Qsilver7; 03-15-2018 at 10:21 AM.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    Does it appear that your trunk lock actuator has lost electrical power? Or just communication with the GM, only? Have you checked the wiring bundled in the corrugated rubber grommet that goes from the trunk area into the body of the car? Sometimes a wire (or multiple wires) break over time of the opening/closing of the trunk.

    Chaffed/cracked/broken wires in the loom from the trunk/tailgate to the body of the car is kind of common in the e39 & e46...but their loom is shorter than the e38's. But that doesn't count out that it could still occur on the e38's longer bundled harness:



    Thanks for the detailed reply. I mean first off, I need to get the trunk opened! I don’t know how to get into the trunk if the rod got deattached from the actuator. It’s a brand new actuator I installed. So I guess first things first, get the trunk lid open! I don’t have a ski pass.


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  18. #18
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    Drill baby drill.
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  19. #19
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    I took it to the stealership and they couldn’t figure out how to open the trunk after a full day. Well let’s hope and see if something changes tomorrow!


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  20. #20
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    Been there, drill time ....

  21. #21
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    Here's one of the videos found easy on Youtube...and a link (below) to an old DIY on e38.org:


    Just in case...here's the link found on www.e38.org (did a page search using the word "drill" and went directly to it)...it's a DIY on how to drill a small hole (behind) the license plate to mechnically actuate the trunk lock actuator: http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/812695

    ...and here's a couple of pics from the DIY above:







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  22. #22
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    Can't you pull the back seat out to get into the trunk through the golf bag opening to reach the release mechanism? More work than drilling a hole but might b worth it if you want to keep the trunk lid in original condition.
    1991 318is
    2001 740i

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by bymep View Post
    Can't you pull the back seat out to get into the trunk through the golf bag opening to reach the release mechanism? More work than drilling a hole but might b worth it if you want to keep the trunk lid in original condition.
    I've never seen an emergency trunk release handle inside an e38's trunk. If they did get them...it must be in the very last production years.

    EDIT: yep...when you look up the part nbr for the emergency release handle (#2 in diagram below) and do a part nbr search...the 1st 7 series to get it was the e65


    {BMW part # 51 24 7 056 414: http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/51247056414/}

    Last edited by Qsilver7; 03-22-2018 at 02:50 PM.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    I've never seen an emergency trunk release handle inside an e38's trunk. If they did get them...it must be in the very last production years.

    EDIT: yep...when you look up the part nbr for the emergency release handle (#2 in diagram below) and do a part nbr search...the 1st 7 series to get it was the e65


    {BMW part # 51 24 7 056 414: http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/51247056414/}


    Oh I know there is no latch but you should be able to reach the cable and pull it open. Did that with a car at the wreckers.
    1991 318is
    2001 740i

  25. #25
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    It’s open after forming over $320 to the stealer:-(


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