I have a e36m3 with Eibach Bilstein suspension (no coil-overs)
maxed out at ~ -1 deg front camber
planing on slotting holes in strut-tower and add backing plate under it to get me to -2.5 deg
I run Ventus 214s, 245-40 on trm 17 x9 , square setup
would you?
are there any other cheap solutions ? (not interested in 300-$400 camberplates which are usually made for coil-overs)
My car is both street & track
thanks for the feedback
Why not use the OEM 96+ M3 top mounts, flipped them (L2R, R2L), and shim the strut for additional camber? I was able to achieve -2.5 by flipping the M3 top mounts, and -3.5 with the shims. This was just with Bilsteins and lowering springs....
I run z214 on track and find I need nearly -4 up front (-3.6 currently), and -3 (-2.7 currently) in the rear at most tracks, just as an FYI.
What TeamNeverlift said. Move the stock plates to the opposite side.
Free. You will still be able to sell your car in the future.
Also look at the turner camber shims. $50 and you get a degree out of them.
2002 BMW M Roaster.
1998 BMW 328is SCCA E Production road racer.
Last edited by Team Neverlift; 03-01-2018 at 10:39 PM.
And I run 4 degrees negative camber in the front on my daily driver/autocross car. Toe at between zero and 1/8" toe in. No big issues with extreme premature tire wear. Sure, the inner shoulder wears faster than the outer, BUT I can still get 35-40,000 kms out of a set of soft street tires without having the inner shoulder worn to the steel belts.
Due to shape of strut Tower, simple slotting of the attach holes most likely will not work as the shape of the stock Guide Supports/strut mounts will ride on the radius of the tower.
Dinan and Turner offer an inexpensive “fixed” camber plate.
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