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Thread: Car shuts off at red lights

  1. #26
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    1994 Bmw 525i
    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    I strongly recommend you get someone with basic electrical knowledge (doesn't have to be car-related as long as they understand it's a DC circuit, not AC like household wiring) to do this with you. Put the wrong wire in the wrong hole and Bad Things can happen, which can easily turn into Really Bad Things if you've also got raw gasoline in the vicinity, such as when testing fuel pressure.
    My dad can do some electrical tasks, but I don't know if he knows the difference between DC and AC. I don't have anyone else who knows. After reading the manual, it doesn't seem like a hard task. Maybe I'm underestimating it. There's even a labeled picture in the Bentley. Maybe ya'll can give me a walk through on this to make sure I'm going to do it right.

  2. #27
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    1995 525i, 1994 540i6
    Buy 2 feet of 10 gauge wire and two in line fuses from parts store or wally mart.
    Pack of ends and wire crimper
    Cut slice crimp ...done
    Should look like demets pic when done

  3. #28
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    OK, so I made the jumper wire. I have a few questions on how to test the pressure.
    1. When I test the pressure, do I turn the key to the on position or am I supposed to start the car?
    2. Is it safe to keep the jumper wire hooked up or only hook it up for a short period of time?

  4. #29
    moroza's Avatar
    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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    The jumper wire should bypass the ignition switch altogether, so key position doesn't matter. No, don't leave it on forever or it'll drain the battery by running the fuel pump.

  5. #30
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    1994 Bmw 525i
    OK. Wasn't able to get it done today. Will most definitely do tomorrow. One more question though. The Bentley sys I need a 16amp fuse, but I googled and that's a cylinder shape fuse. The only inline fuse holder I could find holds fuses like the ones in the fuse box. Anyway, does it have to be a 16amp or can I use a 20 or 15 fuse?

    Also, I'm having a heck of a time trying to get those 2 screws off to open then e-box.
    Last edited by myeshia91; 04-02-2018 at 11:51 AM.

  6. #31
    moroza's Avatar
    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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    Don't bother with the e-box, or if you do, use an impact screwdriver and make sure to hold it down tight, or you'll round the heads and hate life. Remove fuse 23, get a length of wire that isn't super skinny, crimp a spade connector (male end) on one end, and stick it in F23's slot (I don't remember which side of the slot needs power, but you won't hurt anything by connecting to both). Touch the other end of the wire to the jumpstart terminal under the hood. Use a dry cloth or gloves because there can be a little heat involved with that contact. Et voila - manual fuel pump operation with no need to touch the DME, ebox, or keys (leave the ignition off). It'd be nice to have a 15A fuse inline somewhere along that wire, but not actually necessary.

    KEEP A FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEARBY! For that matter, make sure there's a charged one in your car at all times other than long-term storage. That goes for any and all cars regardless of age, make, type, or condition.
    Last edited by moroza; 04-03-2018 at 12:58 AM.

  7. #32
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    1994 Bmw 525i
    Now that my dad is done replacing whatever he thought was causing the problem, I finally did a fuel test. Shot up to 51/52 psi and the minute I disconnect the wire from the positive, the psi drops almost instantly. Here's a vid.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLB0eKVs6dQ



    Also, replaced a torn vacuum hose, no difference at all.

    Also also, going to to try clamping the return line and seeing if it holds pressure. Dad is saying that others online had the car running when performing this test.
    Last edited by myeshia91; 04-18-2018 at 10:18 PM.

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