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Thread: Fikse wheels finally on the car

  1. #1
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    Fikse wheels finally on the car

    After 6 months, a lot of frustration and more money than I'd like to think of I'm finally in the home stretch of my first 3 piece wheel adventure. Fikse Profil 10s 18x9 fronts and 18 x 10 rears. Square 4" lips all around. The car is filthy from the pollen and it'll need a little fender rolling before it road worthy but its more than boxes of wheels parts all over the house finally. Still need O-rings for the center caps too.
    20180227_071441_HDR.jpg20180227_071329_HDR-2.jpg20180227_071348_HDR-1.jpg
    95 325- s/c S50 01 X5-daily 95 840ci- boost incoming

  2. #2
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    9F26F888-466A-4488-A9EA-8EFD2D3420C3.jpgB43F2503-04BF-483E-9589-91A32BF7CEEB.jpg
    Great choice, Fikseís are great wheels, especially the Profil series. The 10 spoke mesh split rim design has got to be one of the all time greats. I have the 8.8x18 and 9.5x18 FM-10 setup on my 88 M6.
    Bert
    91 850i-A
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  3. #3
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    Looks great!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 325isBoosted View Post
    After 6 months, a lot of frustration and more money than I'd like to think of I'm finally in the home stretch of my first 3 piece wheel adventure. Fikse Profil 10s 18x9 fronts and 18 x 10 rears. Square 4" lips all around. The car is filthy from the pollen and it'll need a little fender rolling before it road worthy but its more than boxes of wheels parts all over the house finally. Still need O-rings for the center caps too.
    20180227_071441_HDR.jpg20180227_071329_HDR-2.jpg20180227_071348_HDR-1.jpg
    Looks nice and I do like the color of wheels! What offsets did you settle on and are you running a 300+ tire on the back?

  5. #5
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    The color is Prismatic Powders triple bronze. The front offset is -13 i believe 4" lip/ 5" barrel and +0 4" lip/ 6" barrel on the rear. I went on the safe side with tires since I spec'd the wheels with pretty much napkin math on my own, 255 front and 285 rear.
    95 325- s/c S50 01 X5-daily 95 840ci- boost incoming

  6. #6
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    Nice looking wheels.
    Desecrator of all things Sacred

  7. #7
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    Hey 325isBossted, did you get these profil 10s new directly from Fikse? It looks like they have changed their rim centerís design slightly. Used to be the 2 rim halves are exposed, whereas now, they are completely hidden by the wheel centers.
    Bert
    91 850i-A
    72 3.5 CSi (L-jet, Getrag 265 5 speed)
    88 ///M6

    The back to back to back "BIG COUPE" triplets

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by M6csi View Post
    Hey 325isBossted, did you get these profil 10s new directly from Fikse? It looks like they have changed their rim center’s design slightly. Used to be the 2 rim halves are exposed, whereas now, they are completely hidden by the wheel centers.
    Yea, took damn near 2 months but the faces came direct from Fikse. I got the lips and barrels from wheel flip. I think its the color and angle that makes it look different but they are still set up like yours with the mounting lips visible just a bit behind the face.
    95 325- s/c S50 01 X5-daily 95 840ci- boost incoming

  9. #9
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    I got my set around 2004 from the original Fikse company. Have not dealt with the new Fikse ownership (bought out by Kodiak Motorsport). Seems like their current designs are not as elegant as the originals.
    Bert
    91 850i-A
    72 3.5 CSi (L-jet, Getrag 265 5 speed)
    88 ///M6

    The back to back to back "BIG COUPE" triplets

  10. #10
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    So I wasn't crazy, the few times i talked to them on the phone they said Kodiak Motorsport. Yeah not a fan of most of their designs, although when I found out I had the wrong faces and had to go brand new I did briefly consider the Profil 5s as well.
    95 325- s/c S50 01 X5-daily 95 840ci- boost incoming

  11. #11
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    Yeah, their new designs are somewhat clunky looking, for a lack of a better description.
    Last edited by M6csi; 02-27-2018 at 11:57 PM.
    Bert
    91 850i-A
    72 3.5 CSi (L-jet, Getrag 265 5 speed)
    88 ///M6

    The back to back to back "BIG COUPE" triplets

  12. #12
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    So I'm having trouble with a bottom of the front fender, not something I saw coming at all. The other side is close but doesn't seem that bad. The fender roller is too tall to reach that area really and even if it could I think the fender would probably bow rather than roll there. I have a few options as I see it, step down from 40 to 35 on the tire size, check the alignment for possible caster adjustment since the other side doesn't seem to be as much of an issue however it already kisses the front liner turning as is, or the more extreme option...trim the fender. That portion that is rubbing seems to be just dead metal hanging out there and honestly it always kind of stuck out as an odd line to me, it looks like it could be cut back without much aesthetic damage so to speak. However I was wondering if anyone had done that already, like i said at first glance it feels like it could be removed and not look out of place however its definitely more of a permanent deal so want to see if anyone else had done it before. Certainly wishing I hadn't been greedy and just gone with 3.5" lips up front haha. I'm definitely stuck at this point till I change something, you can see its already took a bite out of the tire and the paint on the inner fender lip and that's just rolling around the driveway.
    tire rub.jpg
    95 325- s/c S50 01 X5-daily 95 840ci- boost incoming

  13. #13
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    How much space do you have between the tire and front edge of the fender? (Cant tell from the picture). If the tire isn't pretty well centered in the opening, then I would tend to think it's an alignment/suspension issue. There have been one or two threads on that issue, and it's usually due to control arms that look like the right ones, but aren't.

    On the other hand, if the tire is centered, then you are back to your other options.

    Mike Barrett
    Mike Barrett
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  14. #14
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    The PO did the control arms right before I bought the car. Ill have to check into that to make sure they used the right ones.

    Quote Originally Posted by mbarrett635 View Post
    How much space do you have between the tire and front edge of the fender? (Cant tell from the picture). If the tire isn't pretty well centered in the opening, then I would tend to think it's an alignment/suspension issue. There have been one or two threads on that issue, and it's usually due to control arms that look like the right ones, but aren't.

    On the other hand, if the tire is centered, then you are back to your other options.

    Mike Barrett
    95 325- s/c S50 01 X5-daily 95 840ci- boost incoming

  15. #15
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    255/40 is the wrong size for an 18" alloy - it should be 255/35:



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  16. #16
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    A little massaging of the fender got the clearance I need. I know it was an off size from stock application but I had a look I was going for and thought I had the clearance I needed. Next set of tires Ill probably step down to a 35 sidewall but for now its not so bad with minimal rubbing on the plastic liners. Unfortunately one of the rear wheels didn't seal so have to try and reseal and mount the tire this week. After that I can hopefully move on to the rest of the build list is short order, exhaust is already on the way, then the 6 spd (got the trans, now the fun part of sourcing the e31 specific parts), and then the blower.
    clean.jpg
    95 325- s/c S50 01 X5-daily 95 840ci- boost incoming

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 325isBoosted View Post
    A little massaging of the fender got the clearance I need. I know it was an off size from stock application but I had a look I was going for and thought I had the clearance I needed. Next set of tires Ill probably step down to a 35 sidewall but for now its not so bad with minimal rubbing on the plastic liners. Unfortunately one of the rear wheels didn't seal so have to try and reseal and mount the tire this week. After that I can hopefully move on to the rest of the build list is short order, exhaust is already on the way, then the 6 spd (got the trans, now the fun part of sourcing the e31 specific parts), and then the blower.
    clean.jpg
    Keep us up to date on your transmission conversion. I am interested in this conversion also. I completed 5 spd conversions in both of my old bmws. I would love to see a list of parts as your obtain them. Thanks,

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDP530 View Post
    Keep us up to date on your transmission conversion. I am interested in this conversion also. I completed 5 spd conversions in both of my old bmws. I would love to see a list of parts as your obtain them. Thanks,
    I have the link saved on my home computer but there is a thread in the sub-forum that has a complete list including part#s for the swap. The real kicker is going to be the driveshaft as I understand it from previous threads, Im not sure if its officially NLA or just hard to find. Ill update my own progress of course too.
    95 325- s/c S50 01 X5-daily 95 840ci- boost incoming

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 325isBoosted View Post
    I have the link saved on my home computer but there is a thread in the sub-forum that has a complete list including part#s for the swap. The real kicker is going to be the driveshaft as I understand it from previous threads, Im not sure if its officially NLA or just hard to find. Ill update my own progress of course too.
    I used a local driveshaft shop to shorten the driveshafts I needed for my conversions and it wasn't expensive years ago. I simply gave them the difference in length between the four spd and five speed for the amount needed to be shortened and then they rebalanced the whole assembly.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDP530 View Post
    I used a local driveshaft shop to shorten the driveshafts I needed for my conversions and it wasn't expensive years ago. I simply gave them the difference in length between the four spd and five speed for the amount needed to be shortened and then they rebalanced the whole assembly.
    There is a local shop I trust if i need to go that route but would prefer to get my hands on OEM if possible. All my previous experiences with 5 spd swaps had plenty of parts cars to pillage, the fact they never sold a manual 840 in the states definitely limits my options.
    95 325- s/c S50 01 X5-daily 95 840ci- boost incoming

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDP530 View Post
    Keep us up to date on your transmission conversion. I am interested in this conversion also. I completed 5 spd conversions in both of my old bmws. I would love to see a list of parts as your obtain them. Thanks,
    Stolen from the thread I mentioned (https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=840+6spd+swap), figured it would help you out and also make it easier for me to find in the future haha.

    Transmission:
    Getrag S6S 420G (E39 540i M.Y. 2000)
    Guide tube 23111222722
    Input shaft seal 23121228493
    Selector seal 23127501582
    Output shaft seal 23121222769
    Reverse switch 23147524811 (found connector and made wiring)
    Cross member 23701092201
    Rubber mounting (2) 23701141614
    Hex nut with plate (2) 22316760944
    Hex bolt with washer (4) 22326760945
    Hex nut (2) 07119904032
    Washer (2) 07119900052
    2 liters Pentosin MTF2 (1.7L fill)

    Drive shaft:
    Drive shaft 26101227880 (new flex disc pre-installed from factory)

    Clutch/Flywheel:
    Set of clutch parts 21217528209 (E39 240mm)
    Twin-mass flywheel (with bolts) 21201223581 (E39 240mm)
    Clutch bolts (6) 07119906045 (E39)
    Clutch fork 21511204229
    Pivot point 21511223328
    Ball bearing (flywheel) 11211720310
    Optional: Flywheel bolt tool 83300491018 (E39)

    Clutch Hydraulics:
    Input cylinder 21521155425
    Hex bolt (2) 07119915031
    Fit bolt 21521151447
    Self-locking hex nut (2) 07129906196
    Connector 21521151697
    Hose 21521163714
    Grommet 21521156082
    Pipe 21521162357
    Bow 37131133421
    Bracket 37131133420
    Absorbing piece 21521159564
    Output cylinder 21526775924 (E39)
    Pipe (NLA) 21521159392 or Pipe 21526751466 (E39)
    Holder 21521164303
    Grommet 21521164603
    Locking Nut (2) 07129906196

    Shifter:
    Shift lever 25117527246
    Shifting arm 25111222366
    Bearing (shift lever) 25111220600
    Selector rod 25111222367
    Plastic washers (4) 25111220439
    Securing clip (4) 25117571899
    Gearshift rod joint 25117526415
    Dowel pin 23411466134
    Tension bush 25111203682
    Plastic washer 25111434194
    Shift arm bearing 25111222652
    Rubber boot 25111434181
    Bolt 25111222375
    Bush bearing oval (2) 25117507695
    Leather boot walk-nappa 25111221823

    Pedals:
    Pedal bracket (if using clutch switch bracket) 35111159647
    Clutch pedal 35311155691
    Rubber pad (clutch) 35211108634
    Brake pedal 35211155686
    Rubber pad (brake) 35211160422
    Retainer spring (if using as clutch return spring) 35211158074
    Bushing (2) 35211158290
    Spacer sleeve 35211150346
    Hex bolt 07119900237
    Clutch switch 61318360421
    Clutch switch bracket 35111159682

    Exhaust mounting:
    Cross member 18321702668
    Rubber mounting (2) 18301723518
    Exhaust support (2) 18311723986
    95 325- s/c S50 01 X5-daily 95 840ci- boost incoming

  22. #22
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    [QUOTE=325isBoosted;29975824]Stolen from the thread I mentioned (https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=840+6spd+swap), figured it would help you out and also make it easier for me to find in the future haha.Wow, that is a detailed list! Thanks,

    BTW, I guess there is only one supplier in Europe who is making the bellhousing adapter?

  23. #23
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    Some of those parts are fake NLA from BMW now, meaning they are European only so BMW NA will not sell them to you. I had to go through schmiedman for those parts. Some of the shifter parts that are 6 speed 840 specicfic is where I ran in to this.

    The only part thatís truly NLA is the hard pipe he lists that goes from the clutch soft line to the slave cylinder. This part is also the same on all e34 540 6 speeds so if you can find a junk one of those then youíve got a source for one. Or just have one made.

  24. #24
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    Thanks for the heads up, ouch that driveshaft is pricey. The local driveshaft shop is looking better in that regards.

    Seeing as how you've gone through this already I had a few questions.
    I noticed in the other thread i quoted, the shifter part number appears to be the same of the E36 if Im reading it correctly, so would I be able to use the short shifter I have laying around from my E36 build?

    Also on the same note of utilizing my parts bin, I have a lightweight 240mm flywheel clutch combo for my E36 NIB proven good to ~ 500 hp. The E39 540 and M5 clutch setup are both 240mm setups, with that self adjusting pressure plate crap and only difference between them is the crank trigger to my knowledge. My thoughts are that since I am obd 1 and the crank trigger on the flywheel does not matter for my application I could possibly get away with just buying a new clutch disk with the proper Getrag splines and using the NIB 240mm E36 flywheel and standard pressure plate assuming the crank bolting, starter engagement and overall dimensions were all the same. I didn't snag the stock clutch/flywheel set up when I pulled the trans, its on my never ending list of things to do to grab a using stock setup and really examine this possibility. But figured I would poll the crowd since this thread as shifted directions to my 6spd swap anyways.


    Quote Originally Posted by killian665 View Post
    Some of those parts are fake NLA from BMW now, meaning they are European only so BMW NA will not sell them to you. I had to go through schmiedman for those parts. Some of the shifter parts that are 6 speed 840 specicfic is where I ran in to this.

    The only part that’s truly NLA is the hard pipe he lists that goes from the clutch soft line to the slave cylinder. This part is also the same on all e34 540 6 speeds so if you can find a junk one of those then you’ve got a source for one. Or just have one made.
    95 325- s/c S50 01 X5-daily 95 840ci- boost incoming

  25. #25
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    Yeah as far as the driveshaft thereís a company we use at the shop called Beyer Driveline. They only do European cars but the problem is they donít deal with the general public. Turner sells their stuff so you could go through them but they can modify your driveshaft to fit. The shop owner has a 2000 Dinan S3 740i that he 6 speed swapped and we had them do it. It was only a couple hundred bucks. They send you a measurement chart and what not to fill out that you package with your driveshaft. But like I said youíd have to call turner or maybe find a local shop that deals with them to help you out with that.

    The shift lever is the same part number only in some instances. The sedans share the same part number as the 8 but the coupes have a different number, I am not sure of the significance. I use etk.cc for this. You can look at diagrams that are very nice and view all the part numbers spanning every market bmws are available so you can compare European to domestic to Japanese, etc. So I would play around with that before assuming it fits.

    The clutch I donít know. The crank trigger wheel should not matter but the only thing Iíd be worried about is some stupid unforeseen difference like the thickness of the flywheel compared to a V8 one even if they are the same diameter. As in the spacing of the contact surface relative to the clutch might be different for some reason or whatever. Iíve never tried it. If it were me you can get a Luk flywheel and clutch kit from rock auto for extremely cheap, I donít understand how they even make money. But it would be worth a try if you maybe had one to compare it to before bolting it on.

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