My '33 Hotrod is DONE....1/31/2023 update pics at post 515

[tptrsn]

I'm not sure what sort of tuner you mean Jim, but I actually just got an HP Tuners MPVI2. It's the system that Schitzo uses for his 427 E39, and I think it is the sweetness for a setup like yours. Actually though, I'll be using it on my Duramax pickup to try and squeeze out a couple more MPGs, and won't be using it on the LRS, since I have MS3X running the show on that beast.

Regarding the pulley situation, I currently have the stock truck style crank pulley on mine, so I'm a bit afraid it might not care for the abuse I'm going to unleash on it. I figured a nice underdrive fluid damper style crank pulley might be nice. The potential downside of doing that instead of keeping the stock crank pulley and going with a larger alt pulley like you said is that my water pump will be slowed by the small crank pulley. With the rear mount radiator, I'm not sure that would be a good thing for trying to cool everything down after a run... Stuff to ponder I guess!

[JimLev]

Yup, something like what you and Schitzo have would be good. Then I can pick your brains on how to use it.

You could always use one of the electric water pumps, plenty of them available for our reliable, trustworthy, don't leak from every gasket LS engines. (lol, did I say that?)

[philly98540]

The electric water pump idea sounds like a decent option.

[tptrsn]

According to the professional drift bros, LS water pumps are just about the only ones that can reliably force sufficient water volume through the voluminous expanses of rear mount radiator setups, so I'm hoping to make that work. I sort of feel like I would rather use those amps for an electric power steering pump from a mini or something if I end up making another change, but I'm a little afraid that adding load to the electrical system will further stress my truck alternator. So we shall see. I might just get the setup running again as is, and if it seems to work properly, try a smaller crank pulley then to see if it still works.

All of the parts are relatively inexpensive, readily available, and can be easily resold for not too much loss if I end up deciding I don't want them. Life is good!

I really need to post up my good M62 block and some M62 and M60 cranks and heads for sale.. Need the space and funds for all of this nonsense.

[JimLev]

What size alternator are you using? I've got this one that I bought new from a guy on the LS forum for 40% off list. It wouldn't fit his build.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Powermaster/7...3-114/10002/-1
I've got electric PS too, it's a lot nicer than I expected.
I haven't looked too much into electric water pumps, they can't draw more than 15 amps can they?

[tptrsn]

Basic underhood fabricating exhaust.jpg

I'm kind of doing the opposite of you Jim. Just using whatever I had on my truck motors... 2000, 2001-ish? Dunno..

[tptrsn]

I've been spending a ton of time the past couple of days on getting comfortable with HP Tuners and with diesel tuning stuff Jim, and at this point I can say without a doubt I like HP Tuners more than most tuning software/systems I've used, and it's pretty close to the MS3/TunerStudio setup overall. MS3 is way better in that you can tune in real time and there are tons of autotuning options, but other than that HPT is super cool!

[Schitzo]

Jim, I highly recommend HPTuners and would be happy to help if you have questions.
Car is looking great.

[geargrinder]

First time I've checked back in here in a while - Lookin tremendous Jim!

Looks impressive Jim. Love the battery box too. I'm was not aware of how much custom body fitting was needed on these. It's not just a bolt together project. I'm sure you'll get all the seams perfect. Keep up the good work.

Agreed! ^^ Wow yeah for sure its building a car, not just boltin' stuff together.

I'm kind of doing the opposite of you Jim. Just using whatever I had on my truck motors... 2000, 2001-ish? Dunno..

Hey T - I spy the Milwauk cordless ratchet jobber in the LRS pic... nice little item, isn't it? I used to use air and now I can't imagine ever dragging that hose around under the car and engine bay again. I got the matching mini bit driver and those 2 things are priceless for makin' crap go fast.

[tptrsn]

Definitely agree 100%! I have a pretty complete set of air tools, and I can't really believe how much faster I can work with the battery powered stuff. Between the Milwaukee little ratchet and my smaller impact gun (Masterforce? Whatever Menards' brand is..) I knock out work ridiculously faster than with air.

I do need to get a mini bit driver though. Sometimes working on some small stuff in tight confines I end up using a manual screw driver when I know I don't really have to be... Heaven forbid I would do manual work when I don't have to! Lol

About the only time I get out the air tools anymore is when I need to use my 1" drive impact beast to break something. My larger 1/2" Masterforce battery impact does great with surprisingly stubborn items.

[JimLev]

Jim, I highly recommend HPTuners and would be happy to help if you have questions.
Car is looking great.

Thanks Schitzo, I probably won't be doing any tuning for a while, still got a lot of building and then painting to do.

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First time I've checked back in here in a while - Lookin tremendous Jim!

Agreed! ^^ Wow yeah for sure its building a car, not just boltin' stuff together.

Thanks guys.
Sort of wish it was just bolt it together, it would be done by now.

I've got lots of air tools and 4 electric ones. Yup, electric is quicker, no hose to drag around.

[bpde328i]

Looking very nice Jim!

[doktor b]

re: pulley discussion.

Thad, I'd do some digging and find out at what RPM the water pump cavitates. If it is fine the in range you're running (intend to run), I'd advise running a stock size crank & WP pulleys and o/s the PS and Alt pulleys. LS pulleys are wicked cheap and you can definitely overwork those two. Losing PS in the middle of a run would be a handfull. Well, it'd be two hands full I reckon.

Also, I'm a huge supporter of the Fluidampr. I had one on my LS e36 and it's just a fantastic piece. But I only ever spun mine up to ~7200-7300.

Jim, your build is truly impressive.

[JimLev]

Hi bpde, nice talking to you the other day.

Thad/Doktor, even with your engine(Thad) at 8K it shouldn't be there long enough (or will it?) for cavitation to become a problem.
I did look into electric water pumps, most only draw 6 amps.
After putting a larger pulley on my alt to slow it down I still have 14.2 volts at idle.

[tptrsn]

Yo DokB!! What's shakin? I have to check in on your P-car thread. Seems like my notifications for it keep ceasing for some reason..

Thanks for the info dudes. I'll give it some noodling. And Jim, I don't honestly know how much I'll be sitting on the limiter. Will be an interesting year for sure.

[peter540]

So, Jim, you're holding out on us! What's the latest with your build?

--P

[JimLev]

I had to take a break for a little while to do some house and yard chores, also wait for more parts to show up. If I keep making changes I may never finish.
Recent parts I have purchased are a stereo/GPS, heated seat pads, different interior door handles, door poppers, engine side panel vents, etc.
I couldn't get the drivers door to align properly, Factory Five sent me a new door which will require trimming so the gap gets set to what the end user requires.
All the panels (door, trunk, hood, engine side panels) require trimming.
Seems every time you make changes they effect something else.
No place to mount the stereo in the dash so I made a console for it, had to remove the seats. Perfect fit except my 4" shift rod was only sticking up 2" and that's without the boot.
Ordered a 6" one that is in this pic.

DSCN2765.JPG

Trunk is on after much trimming of the opening and trunk itself.
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Lokar handles. They make some nice stuff. Bought the tranny shifter from them too.
Still need to install the power windows and door poppers. With the door poppers I won't need outside door handles.
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I still need to take the body off to cut holes for the 8 gauges, HVAC controls, ignition switch, and the headlight switch. Need to do that outside, cutting fiberglass inside makes a big mess.
The tail lights are in and working. Also got a 3rd brake light to mount above the trunk that I need to install after the roof goes on.
Philly.....I'm saving water!
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24" louvers that will go on the engine side panels after I cut the holes for them.
DSCN2688.JPG

[philly98540]

Nice update Jim! I said this before, but man o man these kits require a ton of custom work to get great results. You are doing a great job on this. I can understand the need for a break here and there.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Nice work! Love the center console that you made! These are the things that make it unique.

[Ed CT]

Good console work, Jim. I like that steering wheel with chrome(?) shaft housing.

[Schitzo]

Looking good Jim. Good to see you are still at it.

[Mannyf540]

Awesome work Jim. So inspiring!! Just love your work !

[JimLev]

Good console work, Jim. I like that steering wheel with chrome(?) shaft housing.

Yup, wheel and column all chrome. It was one of the options I bought so I wouldn't have to paint it.

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Looking good Jim. Good to see you are still at it.

It's a long road to get it finished. Hope to have it registered this July, probably not painted.

[JimLev]

Well July has come and gone and it's still no where near finished.
I covered the birch plywood console with marine vinyl but didn't like it so I pulled it off.
Next I covered it with 26ga sheet metal so I'd have a smooth surface to put faux carbon fiber on.

DSCN3537.JPG

I decided I wanted to cut out the dash so it would be easier to connect all of the gauges. I bought a piece of engine turned aluminum them cut it
to the shape I wanted, then cut the holes for the gauges. Also added a clock and oil temp gauge that wasn't part of the package.

DSCN3582.JPG

The ECU controls the radiator fan, it's just on/off control at 195°F. I added a PWM speed controller so it would run all the time at ~40-45%.
The ECU will override the PWM controller to 100% when needed.

DSCN3529.JPG

Still have a little wiring left to do and then start the work on the fiberglass body.
As of now the outside looks like this.

IMG_20190717_165547894_HDR.jpg

[computiNATEor]

Gonna be a handsome ride when it’s done. Going to put the fenders and running boards on it or leave em off?