Crankshaft Position Sensor Install

[ChrisFuture8]

So the bottom CPS on my car is absolutely gone. How bad, I didn't realize until I had it out. Part of the wire is chaffed!
How, I do not know?

Anyways, the bottom one is a b*tch to install with the OEM (BMW) replacement part. The ones (I decided to replace both) with before were aftermarket and they are about 1/2" shorter on the back end. These OEM ones, they are longer (by about 1/2") and I can't get it to squeeze into the opening because the power steering pump bracket is in the way. I started loosening the alternator and removed one of the bolts to the shared bracket of the alternator and power steering pump but I can't seem to budge it...don't want to exert too much force as if it doesn't move, then it's not meant to move.

For those who have succeeded the CPS replacement (the bottom one) with BMW OEM part, how were you able to do it? What needs to be removed, loosen, or moved out of the way?

Please advise.

Thanks.

[shogun]

If I remember right, I removed the power steering pump pulley and loosened the power steering pump a bit to push it slightly out of the way.
that is how it looks
http://www.fuchs-suck.de/ralvieh/535/DSC01848.JPG
http://www.fuchs-suck.de/ralvieh/535/DSC01872.JPG
http://www.fuchs-suck.de/ralvieh/535/DSC01886.JPG
http://www.fuchs-suck.de/ralvieh/535/DSC01902.JPG

[ChrisFuture8]

Hi Shogun. From the 4 pictures, with picture DSC01902.jpg, it looks like the alternator needs to be removed so I can get to the bolt that holds the bracket into the block. That is the bracket that supports both the alternator and power steering pump, correct? Unfortunately, I have already removed the belt and tensioner so there's nothing to hold the pulley so I can undo the pulley bolts.

[Dr. T]

I got it done years ago so it’s tough to remember. The procedure is outlined in the Repair manual. I think you have to remove the pulley and move the pump over a bit as shogun has mentioned. Check the directions in the Repair Manual.

[JDP530]

I just did this job a few months ago also, but I can't remember all the details. I did remove the pulley from PS pump to remove bolts to bracket and I removed a few of the alternator bolts. There is a bracket on back of PS pump that bolts to block so you must remove the single bolt in block and then you can push the pump over slightly to gain enough clearance to remove and replace the sensor. Its not easy to do from under the car with just two hands because you need to push the pump over at the same time you replace the sensor.

- - - Updated - - -

You might try using a strap wrench to hold the pulley so you can loosen the bolts.

[ChrisFuture8]

Thanks, guys. Looks like that's the proper way to do it. Pushing the power steering pump out of the way and to do so, the pulley will need to come off so I can get to the bolts behind the pulley.

[NevadaMike]

I just did mine. Even if you use the shorter aftermarket sensors you have to move the Hydraulic pump to get the old ones out. Note the routing and clips for the wires from both sensors in http://www.fuchs-suck.de/ralvieh/535/DSC01872.JPG. Incorrect routing and/or missing clips may have caused your wire chafing. To remove the hydraulic pump pulley I bought a cheap set of plastic strap wrenches at Harbor Freight, and replaced the strap on the larger one with a section of old ribbed serpentine belt. It grabbed a lot better and minimized the risk of damaging the pulley.

[ChrisFuture8]

Thanks NevadaMike. I was able to get the pulley off by using counter forces on the bolts. Meaning, one socket wrench set to the loosen position and the other socket wrench set to the tighten position and then turn the socket wrenches in opposite (as in pushing the socket handles towards each other to break the bolt where the socket wrench is set to loosen) direction. That method got two of the three bolts out. Then leaving the loosen bolt still thread in but out enough to give me leverage, I used a thick flat head screwdriver blade again as counter leverage and loosen the 3rd bolt.

As for the after market CPS, the ones I just removed from my car is the Facet brand I think and purchased from autohausaz. I almost gave up and install the still working after market one into the bottom slot. I can fit it without issues.

However, after taking advises from the members above, I was able to nudge the power steering pump out of the way enough to finally get the BMW OEM CPS sensor in to the bottom slot. It took time and patience.

As for chaffing, the wires of the sensors I pulled out were very secured and kept neatly tucked away with the cable clamps. The interesting thing too is that the chaffed part of the wire is higher up and above the water pump level so I couldn't understand what could have caused it to chaff badly like that. I will take pictures of the bad wire and post for the forum to see.

Fearing this might happen again, before I installed the new CPS sensors, I wrapped the wiring housing with self vulcanizing tape. This will protect it from heat if it was heat that may have melted the plastic wire outer coat. If not, well, the wires are protected now.

I like to also report that my misfire, took long to start, hard to start, and then no start at all is now fixed.
Culprit could have been a weak fuel pump but it was the chaffed CPS sensor (the bottom one) that caused the driver's bank to crap out but still run.
That explains for the very slow spark/fuel firing but not quite LHM.

Thanks everyone for your help!