I was street racing and went from 3rd to 2nd. The car immediately died. I tried to start it but it won't start up. It acts like it wants to but it doesn't. I assume the engine is fucked. I want to get your guys 2 cents. Only comment with advice, instead of trash. Thanks
Not even one little comment about street racing? ......... okay, to get opinions you have to say what it does and doesn't do, and when it does and doesn't do these things.
It's hopefully something minor. No parts left on the street I assume ? Maybe a crank or cam sensor wire came off
It sounds like you're talking about a money shift above redline--although that shift is usually from 5th to 2nd or 4th to 1st on a downshift. It shouldn't happen on third to second on a downshift, but if you brought it up to redline in third, and shifted into what you intended to be 4th, but was in reality second, on an intended up-shift, then that's it. What would have happened next is the engine exceeding redline and the valves floating, contacting the cylinders, and you know the rest. Best way to check for that is with a compression tester--you're checking for no compression on all cylinders. If that's it, you probably need a new head, but could possibly rebuild yours, and probably new pistons as well. Wouldn't be a bad idea to do the bottom end as well and the timing chain and tensioners. Oh, and that would be a good time to safety wire the oil pump nut.
If that's not what you did, but were intentionally downshifting from third to second, then it's something simple and relatively inexpensive--a compression test will tell you that as well--what you are looking for is compression. If you have compression, then it's a simple fuel or spark tracing until you get to the issue.
If your intent was to shift into fourth and accidentally shifted into second, you probably need a shift pin service on your transmission as well. If the engine is indeed blown, it may be better to replace it than rebuild it--S52's are a dime a dozen. Whether you replace or rebuild, do a shift pin service or not, it would be time to do the clutch, giubo, water pump, mounts, etc. How many miles on it? What is the condition of the rest of the car?
Did the rpm go past 7500rpm? Any crazy noises?
Sounds like a money shift.
For this reason I built the habit of shifting 3rd to 4th with palm turned away from my body. It prevents money shifts.
S52s are available, and fairly easy to swap.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Harvey, my man. Street racing did not cause the failure. It was my own fault with the shifting. Regardless, this occurrence could have easily happened on the track, so in my mind your point is useless.
There is nothing wrong with street racing as long as you are responsible, and don't get caught. I make my hits around 2-3am when there isn't a soul around.
Sorry for the initial vague post. I was pretty heated at myself late at night waiting for the tow truck. It didn't make any horrendous noise, besides hearing the car over rev like crazy. I never shift past redline. I made that shift around 6800 rpm. I am not leaking any fluid after the f-up. The car acts normal, minus combustion, when I try to start it. I will try to take a video and post it up here in the next few hours.
Thanks guys.
Well let's hope your lucky and it's something like a spark plug blow out. I've had them come loose over time. Do you have software to diagnose? If you're that into racing to be out at 2-3am to do it then you really need to find a track and save yourself a lot of grief
Last edited by z3forlife; 02-25-2018 at 10:30 AM.
I have no software to diagnose it. I'll probably have to go rent one.
I cant legitimately argue your point. I just don't want to drive an hour to go to the track and pay money to only get a few passes. I live 2 miles away from the only gas station in OKC that sells race fuel and it is always busy there Friday & Saturday nights.
Is there something special about your S-52 that requires race fuel? Anything over 93 octane on a stock or slightly modified motor is a complete waste of money and can only potentially cause damage to your motor and exhaust equipment. Don’t take this the wrong way, it may only be because the posts are vague at this point, but it seems to me that you have a lot to learn about high performance driving and motors. Before undertaking something dangerous like street racing again, make sure you become educated about your driving and car. This equals yet another vote for investing in a HPDE school where there are only people interested in making you a better driver. Please don’t become another sad statistic.
1999 M Coupe Boston Green, Beige, H&R/Bilsteins, Underdrive Pulleys, Euro 6 speed, UUC SSK and Randy Forbes in the back
2002 2.5 Z3 roadster Oxford Green, auto, all stock
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually 385 HP, 850 ft lbs torque at 1600 rpm, all stock and staying that way
2004 Mini Cooper Chili Red, daily driver, modified almost daily
Guys, I NEVER said I put race fuel in the M Roadster. I The point I was getting at was this gas station has a HUGE turnout for racing versus traveling to a track.
Harvey, I hate to tell you but street racing is actually a big thing. Like I said as long as you are responsible its fine. I can tell you are a straight laced kind of guy. I respect that, but I didn't buy an expensive car just to track it a couple times a year and then stare at it in the garage for the rest of the time. Last comment. I feel like it is easy to go from 3rd to 2nd. I had it happened to me when I was cruising on the high way. Fortunately I wasn't at a high RPM. The biggest mistake I made was not giving my full attention on the shift.
I checked the compression on Cylinders 5 & 6. Bad news is that it was 0.
What is a good price for a used S52 engine? Is it best to pull the engine and tranny together or leave the tranny in the car?
Thanks
Last edited by ShelbyGT500; 02-25-2018 at 02:14 PM. Reason: grammar
I wasn't going to comment on the OP's stupidity until the kid tried to justify being a menace to society with a 3,000 pound weapon. Cars don't kill people. Idiots behind the wheel do.
That sentence is an oxymoron with moron stressed.
If he isn't lucky, the person he is bound to harm in the future will be the lucky one.
When you grow up, read about the wedding party in Lido Beach NY and street racing. http://www.nytimes.com/1988/09/16/ny...ds-deaths.html It's the New York Times so it may be written above your reading level, but I have faith in you. If reading comprehension isn't your strong point, try this video.
Last edited by Tommm; 02-25-2018 at 05:43 PM.
I'm too old to learn how to drive an automatic.
S52 prices are from $1200-1800 depending on condition and luck.
I bought a 110,000 mile one from an M3 for $1300 a couple years back. Now it just sits in storage. Naturally, not for sale. Just as an example.
I would pull it with tranny too (just a few more nuts and bolts), but you don't have to.
Last edited by 328 Power 04; 02-25-2018 at 02:41 PM.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
No kidding--you boys in OKC finally get internet so you could watch F&F movies?
You don't know s--- about me, kid. I was racing cars when you were still trying to figure out why your pecker got hard whenever your mom made you fold her laundry.
There are lots of things you can do with a car on public roads that aren't illegal and dangerous (to others, I mean. Nobody gives a ripe f--- if you hurt yourself). Have you considered, oh I don't know, maybe just going for a drive?
Only if you're a moron.
Guys, he asked for advice and specifically not criticism or comment on the foolishness of his situation--he knows--enough already. Pull the engine and transmission together so you can do the clutch on a bench or stand. If your transmission regularly wants to go into 2nd from 3rd instead of 4th--that's not normal--you need to do a shift pin service or a shifter linkage rebuild, or both--ideal to do when the trany's out anyway. Btw, drill out a couple of spot welds at the frame horns and the radiator core support comes right out making engine removal much easier.
On the subject of race gas, higher octane always is a measure of a slower burning mixture; you should only use higher octane if you were detonating with lower octane, and you will have to advance the timing slightly to accommodate it. To put it another way, you will make the most horsepower by running the lowest octane that you don't have detonation with. Of course, the minor problem is that you really can't hear detonation unless it is pretty bad, you really need a knock sensor to "hear" it.
My S54 runs just fine with 91 octane Kalifornia Krap, and it's got 11.5 to 1 compression; why would you need more with a stock S52? The only motor I've ever used race gas was a race motor that was 96ci making 350 horsepower with 22 pounds of boost; it thrived on 116 octane, but it was an absolute bear to get started on a cold morning!
Marty
As to octane, I run 93 in my supercharged S52 due to the higher intake temperatures from air compression at an elevation of just about 1000 ft above sea level--things are very different on the Colorado plateau at 11,000 ft--it all just depends on the circumstances.
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