My '94 525i Build Thread

[E34Dave]

This is my first BMW. I am still young, have a hefty insurance payment and a ton of other expenses,
so sadly this build will be quite slow. The cars been sitting on an off for two years due to the lack of funding I've had to fix the dying transmissions (two now).
I am in way over my head with this project, but luckily my dads done turbo builds in the past so I can use his knowledge to my advantage.
This will be a learning experience and definitely something I can put time and pride into.


Story:
I picked an automatic 1994 BMW 525i (M50tu/B25) up November 2015 for $600. The paint was in decent shape with some clear peeling, and a small rust spot in the rear driver side door.
The car did not run - the owner swapped out the engine and couldn't figure out how to wire everything since all the connectors are almost identical.
After getting it home, it took my dad and I a week to get the car running and it was glorious. I was starting to think that I had a useless P.O.S as my first car.
We got it running, few months later it overheated. I destroyed the head driving it 10 miles home at the red line. We got a m54 head, cometic, arp studs and reassembled the car.
Since then its been a battle of shitty bmw transmissions and my bad teenage decisions.
Here's an album of pictures - everything I remembered to capture, even my most regretted moments.
https://imgur.com/a/6RC6S

And that takes us up to the present - so whats next?




Setup:
M50tuB25 with a Holset HX35, planning for a moderate 350hp to start, eventually wanting to crank it up to the limits.
The engine already has a M54 intake cam on the exhaust side (iirc), but no intake cam upgrade as of yet.
The car has a .140 Cometic and ARP head studs, nothing else has been done to the engine.
Tuning through the Miller W.A.R Chip
Pump gas for now, I don't understand much about what I need fueling-wise.
Manual swap from a 1991 e34, buying parts from a seller on here. It'll be a bit before I can get all the parts.

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Progress list for the car:
Done | In Progress | To-do

| Engine |
Dr. VANOS Stage II
Cometic .140 Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
60lb Injectors
Miller W.A.R Chip
RapidSpoolIndustries Manifold
Turbo installation (HX35) TODO: Exhaust
Forged Internals (Pistons/Rods)
Eventually stroke to 2.8/3.0/2.5

| Drivetrain |
Manual Swap, ZF Transmission
Upgraded clutch / lightweight flywheel

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Goals:
350hp at the wheels (short term), 600 in the future
Clean, fast daily driver

Latest Update:
3/1/2018 - Turbo is mounted up, oil feed line is done.

Next Plan:
Oil return line, bung in oil pan. 3" Exhaust or intercooler.


I have compiled a full parts list for my car, ranging from really dumb things to things I might possibly need. You're welcome to view it below:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

If you have any thread suggestions, build suggestions or any kind of advice, please send it my way! I really need it.

[E34Dave]

Currently waiting on my turbo manifold to arrive from RapidSpoolIndustries. First thing on my list is to get this turbo some oil. I bought a banjo bolt from RallyRoad so I can get some oil pumping to the turbo. I will be running a 4an to the turbo from the bolt. For the oil return, I still have to figure that out. I read I was supposed to use 12AN for the return, so I still have to figure that out.

I should be posting some media here soon of the beginning of the FI build!

Any tips on the oil portion? This is my first turbo build so I honestly am learning as I go.

[E34Dave]

Got the manifold and the bolt yesterday, really quick shipping on both. Tomorrow after work I'm gonna drop the exhaust and bolt in the new manifold. From there I'll do the oil lines, inter cooler and piping. This auto transmission is already on its way out, I might as well send it out the murica waymanifold.jpg

[JOutterbridge]

Are you sure that turbo will match up on that manifold? Making power won't be an issue on low boost with that build. Your issues will most likely be tuning since you want vanos? And the transmission swap from the original auto. Will your ECU be able to control the ZF?(I have no clue) Also as a future tip, never drive on an broken/overheated engine. A $100 tow is less than getting replacement parts and engines.

[E34Dave]

Are you sure that turbo will match up on that manifold? Making power won't be an issue on low boost with that build. Your issues will most likely be tuning since you want vanos? And the transmission swap from the original auto. Will your ECU be able to control the ZF?(I have no clue) Also as a future tip, never drive on an broken/overheated engine. A $100 tow is less than getting replacement parts and engines.

Yes! It's in the car now. I'm going to have to move the AC lines, but other than that everything will work. For tuning, I am going to be using a Miller W.A.R chip - as far as I'm aware I won't have any problems. I'm pretty sure the ECU won't cause any problems.
This link says nothing about an ECU

l0l.jpg
Screenshot_20180302-072417_Snapchat.jpg
Todays progress will hopefully be the oil feed and maybe the return. I have to get it drivable ASAP so I don't have to drive my girlfriends car to work.

[Hofmeister]

Are you sure that turbo will match up on that manifold? Making power won't be an issue on low boost with that build. Your issues will most likely be tuning since you want vanos? And the transmission swap from the original auto. Will your ECU be able to control the ZF?(I have no clue) Also as a future tip, never drive on an broken/overheated engine. A $100 tow is less than getting replacement parts and engines.

e34 525 is pretty much same electronics wise as an e36. i did the zf swap on mine 5 years ago and have never had an electronic issue.

OP, i think you have the cam wrong, m54 cam only works on intake since its a double vanos engine. atleast when i did mine it was intake only.

[E34Dave]

e34 525 is pretty much same electronics wise as an e36. i did the zf swap on mine 5 years ago and have never had an electronic issue.

OP, i think you have the cam wrong, m54 cam only works on intake since its a double vanos engine. atleast when i did mine it was intake only.

Probably do! It was a bit messy since I snapped one of my cams in half while changing them. Not sure what is where, I was more concerned with finding a replacement cam.

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Another question for those of you guys who know more about these cars:
With everything you know about my engine (stock injectors as well), why would my AFR be 14-15 while at WOT or even half throttle? Sometimes the car will idle at around 12.2, but never while actually driving does it get that low. Is something wrong?

Trip to the performance shop:
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[E34Dave]

Progress!! 1 trip to the performance shop and $170 later, the oil feed line is done, the outlet for the turbo is connected but not plumbed, and I have developed a really bad vacuum leak. Guess I'll be pulling the intake back off on my next day off. Bad oil leak from the valve cover; I got a new gasket but I have to fix the studs backing out and also making sure these O-rings are sealing.
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Setup: -4AN into the turbo off of the lower banjo bolt, and then a -10AN return down to the oil pan

[Hofmeister]

did you put that black plastic cover back on the cam? I didnt and caused my VCG to leak.

also you might want to run the turbo oil feed over the top of the engine. those lines can melt from exhaust heat.

[E34Dave]

did you put that black plastic cover back on the cam? I didnt and caused my VCG to leak.

also you might want to run the turbo oil feed over the top of the engine. those lines can melt from exhaust heat.

Yeah we did the cams a year ago and yes I did put the cover back on. The problem was me forgetting to connect one of the lines that go onto the throttle body.
Thank you for pointing that out! I plan on wrapping the exhaust, but yeah I rather not have an oil line start squirting and start a fire. I guess I should run it against the firewall (I think I have enough slack).

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Cars now running, no piping to or from the turbo yet. Still have to tackle the oil return before I worry about all that.

I am not sure what I am going to do about the oil return though. Timing chain cover or oil pan? I'd have to get it welded in at an angle so it sits perfectly 90 or slanted upwards so I don't get any oil blockage. The passenger side of the oil pan is angled towards the ground. Any tips on what I should probably do?

[Smurf36]

Yeah we did the cams a year ago and yes I did put the cover back on. The problem was me forgetting to connect one of the lines that go onto the throttle body.
Thank you for pointing that out! I plan on wrapping the exhaust, but yeah I rather not have an oil line start squirting and start a fire. I guess I should run it against the firewall (I think I have enough slack).

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Cars now running, no piping to or from the turbo yet. Still have to tackle the oil return before I worry about all that.

I am not sure what I am going to do about the oil return though. Timing chain cover or oil pan? I'd have to get it welded in at an angle so it sits perfectly 90 or slanted upwards so I don't get any oil blockage. The passenger side of the oil pan is angled towards the ground. Any tips on what I should probably do?

From what I've read and seen tapping the pan straight in on passenger side then 90ing up is fine some even tap the drain plug then route the drain over and up. But you may need a vent line on the return going up and either to atmosphere or to a catch can.

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[E34Dave]

From what I've read and seen tapping the pan straight in on passenger side then 90ing up is fine some even tap the drain plug then route the drain over and up. But you may need a vent line on the return going up and either to atmosphere or to a catch can.

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I have a catch can so that will work out then, thank you for the advice. My lines going almost straight down to a 90° fitting. My only worry is that it'll block up there since it'll be pointing up slightly

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[Smurf36]

I have a catch can so that will work out then, thank you for the advice. My lines going almost straight down to a 90° fitting. My only worry is that it'll block up there since it'll be pointing up slightly

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It's a 10an line and fitting right

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[E34Dave]

It's a 10an line and fitting right

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Yeah, I wanted to do 12 but the shop I went to couldn't do it

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[E34Dave]

I have a lot of slack line, so I can do whatever I need routing wise. It'll be shortened once i find a good spot

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[Smurf36]

With a 10 lime and a vent you should be fine.

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[Hofmeister]

Yeah we did the cams a year ago and yes I did put the cover back on. The problem was me forgetting to connect one of the lines that go onto the throttle body.
Thank you for pointing that out! I plan on wrapping the exhaust, but yeah I rather not have an oil line start squirting and start a fire. I guess I should run it against the firewall (I think I have enough slack).

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Cars now running, no piping to or from the turbo yet. Still have to tackle the oil return before I worry about all that.

I am not sure what I am going to do about the oil return though. Timing chain cover or oil pan? I'd have to get it welded in at an angle so it sits perfectly 90 or slanted upwards so I don't get any oil blockage. The passenger side of the oil pan is angled towards the ground. Any tips on what I should probably do?

id still recomend top of the engine or through the front by the core support.

[E34Dave]

Finally updating the thread on the progress, it's been far too long. Below is an imgur album with photos and captions.

Here's a list of whats been done:

• Front bumper purchased, painted and installed.
• HKS SSQV BOV purchased w/ 2.5" pipe & flange.
• 2.5" intercooler piping kit from eBay. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-Aluminu...53.m2749.l2649)
• Turbo manifold installed, turbo mounted.
• Oil drain onto the passenger side of the oil pan welded in & plumbed.
• Banjo bolt for the oil feed installed & plumbed.
• FMIC (bought off craigslist) mounted in front of A/C fan, wedged in w/ intercooler piping done.

https://imgur.com/a/1jPmkBw

I am running 5lbs of boost right at the moment and the difference is awesome. I have an open exhaust right now and this engine just sounds splendid. I am having an issue with the car idling properly when the charge pipe is connected. When it's not connected, the car idles fine. When connected, it surges and eventually stalls out. Does anyone have an idea on what could be causing this? All vacuum lines are connected and sealed, no cracks or anything that could cause a leak. When I let off the throttle the car sounds like its misfiring. Does not do this when disconnected.
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