E36 M3 chassis reinforcement questions

[Higgt00l]

I searched, but remain a bit confused. I just bought a 1996 M3 that will see time on the street and at HPDEs. On track, I’ll have r-comps, and upgraded brakes. I’ll probably stick with Koni yellows on the shocks/struts for a while, and currently have OE style bushings. I’m going to perform safety and structure projects first.

1. Since I have a 1996 M3, am I correct that I do not need additional rear subframe mount reinforcements?

2. Am I correct that I do need rear trailing arm mount reinforcements before hitting the track?

3. Am I correct that I do not need sway bar mount reinforcements until I upgrade the sway bar?

4. Am I correct that I do need shock and strut tower reinforcements before hitting the track?

5. Am I correct that I do need front subframe mount reinforcements before hitting the track?

6. An x-brace will help performance, but is not needed?

7. Any other chassis recommendations?

Thanks!

[pbonsalb]

You need everything but the subframe to chassis reinforcements. Any you do not add is taking a risk but that is up to you.!

I recommend replacing all 30+ bushings, mounts,ball joints and links under the car. Check your wheel bearings as well. And your brake pistons for buildup that prevents retraction and torn bolts and your sliders to make sure they are working.

On many of these cars much of this stuff is 20 years old.

[Pat533i]

You don't really need the front subframe plates until you go with stiffer mounts, I would check the conditions of your engine mounts though. Engine movement while on track is always a recipe for disaster.

I would agree with you, swaybar reinforcement is not needed until stiffer swaybar is added. But if you're already back there with a welder for the rtab pockets....
They will not cause a catastrophic failure like the rtab pocket can. That said, I bet 60% of tracked e36's haven't put rtab plates on. (ticking time bombs)

Couple other things to check would be the power steering line that goes tho the cooler, factory crimp is garbage and will fail. Cutting the crimp off and using a regular hose clamp is the fix for that. Also front control arm ball joints are know to snap. They should be considered a maintenance item on a track car.

[Crustashio]

X-brace is nice just for the oilpan protection alone.

[Steage]

Sounds like my E36 is set up similarly to yours - OEM bushings with Koni’s, an upgraded front sway bar, and a stock rear sway bar.

For reinforcement I’ve had the RTAB pockets done, and then I have upgraded rear shock mounts (Rogue), front shock reinforcement plates, a front strut bar (Rogue again), and the x-brace (bought the car with it, no idea what difference it makes).

I’m of the opinion that further reinforcement isn’t really needed unless I make further upgrades, although I’ll probaby get some while-I’m-in-there work done to the rear subframe when I get around to dropping it to do the bushings.

Further suggestions: check the front diff bushing

[MDR629]

I know we're talking about chassis reinforcement, but make sure the oil pump nut gets taken care of before you hit the track.

I would agree with everything you have listed. Go for the x brace though, good protection and stiffening.

Last thing is make sure your RTABs are fresh and preferably have limiters. I don't think anything adversely messes with handling as much as shot RTABs.

[Higgt00l]

This is all helpful, thanks!

[joenationwide]

On my racecar, I ripped the RTAB mounts out of the chassis and the engine mounts out of the front subframe. And that was running OEM engine mounts.
Everything else has been fine.

[bimmerboy318]

I know this is an old thread but at least I used search.

It seems the only reinf that needs to be done on the car itself is the RTAB pocket reinf. I don’t plan to upgrade the rear swaybar so I’ll leave that alone. And the front subframe needs to be dropped and can be taken to a weld shop. And of course I’ll do the oil pan nut, gasket, and pan baffles. Right?

[aeronaut]

I know this is an old thread but at least I used search.

It seems the only reinf that needs to be done on the car itself is the RTAB pocket reinf. I don’t plan to upgrade the rear swaybar so I’ll leave that alone. And the front subframe needs to be dropped and can be taken to a weld shop. And of course I’ll do the oil pan nut, gasket, and pan baffles. Right?

Depends immensely on what tire you're running, what springs you're running, and how experienced you are.
Street tire, close to OEM springs, at Novice or Intermediate is fine with nothing but factory reinforcements for a few events a year.

Past that, RTAB pockets first, and the easy stuff (shock and strut reinforcements).
And yea, my front subframe cracked on OEM engine mounts. But it gets driven hard, on bumpy courses, with Rcomps and stiffy springs.

[bimmerboy318]

I have to do all the work on this car myself. And I do have access to some skilled welders at work.

What I’m really asking is the only welding that would have to happen on the car, that I couldn’t carry into the back of the shop, would be the RTAB pockets?

[aeronaut]

I have to do all the work on this car myself. And I do have access to some skilled welders at work.

What I’m really asking is the only welding that would have to happen on the car, that I couldn’t carry into the back of the shop, would be the RTAB pockets?

Yep.