Starting E36 325iS turbo build

[IISevv]

I’m starting to gather parts for my turbo project and thought I’d post my progress here. The car is a 1993 325iS. Auto transmission with 198k miles. It’s a salvage title with body damage so cosmetics are not my main concern. This is my first major project, so any comments or tips are highly appreciated. It’s not my daily so I’ll be doing all the labor and tuning myself. I’ll be using M54b30 parts to stroke it.

Powertrain:
-Ported+ceramic coated TS GT35R 68mm
-Wiseco Forged Pistons
-Eagle Forged Rods
-OEM M54 Crank
-Bosch 1000cc injectors
-Walbro 450L/ph fuel pump
-Generic intercooler kit with semi-custom piping
-Tial Wastegate
-Turbosmart BOV
-ARP Head Studs
-Ebay twin scroll top mount manifold (can custom fabricate if necessary)
-Greddy Emanage Piggyback + electronic boost controller (considering others, input is helpful. Do not want to spend $1000 on a stand-alone)
-FX Racing Stage 4 clutch and flywheel
-Piston rings, crank bearings, complete top end gasket kit (maintenance stuff)
-Bigger MAF (Don’t know which one to use, advice would be appreciated. Don’t want to spend $500 on one)
-Manual 5 Speed Swap gathering used parts

Suspension/Wheels/Etc
-Widebody rear end running drag radials
-Factory LSD
-H&R Sport suspension
-Complete bushing refresh

Interior
-Half cage welded in
-Buckets w/ harnesses
-Short shifter, suede afternarket wheel, etc

[JimsR]

Good to see another AZ Turbo E36! Hi 5.

-Greddy Emanage Piggyback + electronic boost controller (considering others, input is helpful. Do not want to spend $1000 on a stand-alone)

^^^Is this how you plan to tune the car? I would recommend against it if so, you can do some searching and you won't find much if any people doing this successfully. You can buy a tune from a handful of tuners and they will include a MAF and injectors if needed but I would say standalone would be best. Initial cost is more but you don't need a MAF or boost controller (just a solenoid) and you can log and do away with many gauges. MSPNP just released an E36 obd1 version.

Also, keep us posted on progress and post any questions.

[IISevv]

After more research I’m a little worried about attempting to tune it through a piggyback. The appeal for me was the cheaper cost and safety (retaining stock fail safes). However I’ve seen a few stand-alones on sale for around $500. I’m interested in learning to tune it myself as it’s not my daily so I can spend the time perfecting it.

Thanks, I’ll look into them. I’ve also heard good things about Miller but do not know how much their package costs.

[hotdish]

^^^Is this how you plan to tune the car? I would recommend against it if so, you can do some searching and you won't find much if any people doing this successfully. You can buy a tune from a handful of tuners and they will include a MAF and injectors if needed but I would say standalone would be best. Initial cost is more but you don't need a MAF or boost controller (just a solenoid) and you can log and do away with many gauges. MSPNP just released an E36 obd1 version

I've only played around with it, but even stock obd1 tuning would probably be better than a piggyback unless you just want to use it for datalogging.

[Butters Stoch]

Why dual transcoolers with fans if your going manual ?

Also, buy the look at your parts list, I hate to say it but that clutch stage 4 thing won't hold the power you will make. Unless you keep it at baby boost levels.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

[IISevv]

You’re right. I was looking into having the stock GM transmission built and I had those on the build list.

That’s the problem I’m running into. It should reliably boost into the 20’s on E85 or meth, but I’m trying to avoid spending $1500-$2000 on the transmission swap. I thought of swapping in a newer 6 speed auto out of a 335i but I’m pretty sure that would involve wiring in a separate TCM. I don’t think the OBD1 ECU could communicate with the OEM 335 TCM. I still haven’t decided what the best direction to go is. If anyone has any suggestions I’d appreciate it!

[pbonsalb]

Definitely don’t bother with an E36 automatic.

[328iFun]

pictures.or.this.thread.doesnt.exist.

[IISevv]

This is the turbo and wastegate I'll be using and I will add pictures of the car. Apparently I don't have permission to post attachments yet so here is a link to my google drive. https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...mL?usp=sharing

[JimsR]

For transmission go with manual from e36 328 or m3.

[someguy2800]

The piggyback thing is a stupid plan, just forget that. It will be entirely impossible to tune a stock ecu to run on 1000 cc injectors with a piggyback. If you are money constrained your not spending the money in the right places. You do not need a full motor build for what your looking to do. Stock pistons and rods with a cutring and spacer will be fine. Easiest way would be to just get a stock M52. I'm guessing based on the 1000 cc injectors you want to do E85? If so you don't need the spacer. If not doing E85 you really only need 60 or 80 lb injectors. There are stock ecu tunes with 60 lb injectors and maf for sale on here used pretty regularly. The 450lph pump will also require a different fuel pressure regulator as the pump will overun the stock one. Reinvest the money saved on building the motor into a decent manifold and a tuning option such as a stock ecu tune or megasquirt plug and play. Those two parts are pretty much the foundation of a good build. Turbos and other parts are easy to swap out as your needs change but a good manifold and tuning setup will last you many many years of happy boosting. You can also save some money on the bov and fancy pants coated GT35r and invest that into a decent intercooler and clutch. Can you post a link of the ebay twin scroll top mount manifold your looking at?

[IISevv]

Thank you for helping me out-everything you’re saying makes sense. However, I wouldn’t save a significant amount of money by going with a less built engine and fuel system. I got the turbo and Wastegate from a friend who badly needed the money for $500, and foregoing the forged internals would only save me about $1000 vs. going with a thicker head gasket or spacer. The other parts I’ve found on sale or the price difference is negligible ($100 here or there). I think the smartest plan is just to spread out the build over a longer period of time and save up for name brand parts-do it right the first time.

I was planning on upgrading the fuel system for E85 so I will have that option down the road. I’m aware I’d need a new fuel pressure regulator but I forgot to add that in.

[ryanshamal]

Millers option for odb1 tuning is awesome for what you're looking for and relatively cheap in comparison to some others.

[IISevv]

Millers option for odb1 tuning is awesome for what you're looking for and relatively cheap in comparison to some others.

Thanks, just checked them out. $950 isn’t bad for the complete package.

[IISevv]

Sorry I’ve been so absent from the thread. I’ve been really busy with work and trying to finish school. I’ve listened to a lot of advice and revised my parts list. I’m going with the Miller Performance WAR chip turbo tuning package. I’m dumping the questionable EBay clutch kit in favor of a name brand one. I’ll be buying the project car in the next few days and I’ll post pictures and updates. Looks like it’ll be a 5 speed M52B28 528i. My goal is to finish the car by end of May. Once I get the car I’ll be pulling the motor, sending the block off to be honed and then I’ll start tapping oil lines and building the motor.

[ba114]

If its M52b28, do not do the miller setup. It's pointless reverting to OBD1.
The stock OBD2 ecu is perfectly capable of running a boosted motor. I have an m50b25tu converted to obd2 making 350kw with just a cutring combo and PTE6262.