Hi guys- wondering if any of you have done subframe bushings and RTAB without the puller tools. I did the Diff bushings without the pullers, and it was a pain in the butt, but it was also done while the subframe was in the car.
If I am in fact crazy for going about it without the tools, does anyone have any that I can borrow? I'm happy to rent them/ pay for shipping (flat rate boxes?) and pay a deposit on them. I don't want to shell out the money for tools I'll truly use once.
I just did them all. The only problems I had was with the upper and lower control arm bushings on the spindle. I couldn't get my smaller press or make a tool to get the new ones in. Most will come out with a trip to the hardware store. Pick up some long heavy grade bolts, nuts, and large flat washers. I think I also had a 1 3/4" socket laying around. I post a pic if I can find it. I used a bench vice to press some of them too.
I've tried a TON of methods. Nothing works more good than fire and a sawzall.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Here's what I did. Be careful removing axles from hub as I defaced the shaft and were the nut goes trying to beat it out. I eventually had to have them pressed out. And look at that oem hole compared to the round bushing. The Germans got us back for winning the war.
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And don't forget to put your brake heat shields back on first! lol I had to cut mine to get them back on.
Sigh.... Did that for the Diff bushings, and the it worked, but it wasn't the easiest. Not to mention the participation that played in the likelihood of lung cancer!
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Luckily I just replaced one of the axles, and it came out of hub pretty easily. I'm hoping to not have to bother witt the axles though, if I'm pulling the entire subframe out. I guess the car's going to need an alignment after this job....
Side note- If I'm taking it out, I suppose I should replace the upper bushings on the trailing arm?
The 5 bushings in the subframe were the easiest for me. Make sure to evaluate whether it needs welded to reinforce while its out.
Evaluate? Might as well if it's all out. Esp if OP has a pre facelift 330 :-D
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
If you have the space for one, buy yourself a shop press. The number of car projects that can be simplified/made easier with one might surprise you
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I'm taking them out while reinforcing. As a drift car, I think I' d be crazy to not reinforce my uncracked 225k mile car's subframe mounts!
Rtabs I always just sawsall the stock ones out and replace with something I don't need a special tool to install. Like the Bimmerworld Spherical Rtab's
Air hammer worked super good for rtabs for me. I had to make press block to do the sphericals on the knuckle though, they’re in there very tight
I'm using poly rtab and solid subframe mounts. I'll try to air hammer them out, and I might have to just mallet/ sledge with a block of wood to get them in.
No room or money for a shop press, unfortunately.
I picked up my shop press (exactly the HF one pictured) for $80 on sale. It's pretty small all things considered. I've never legit used it so far though. *shrugs*
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I used fire and an air hammer for the sleeves, super easy
I have used the free Ball Joint press tools from Advance Auto to get out and install the RTAB. It works fine, and its free.
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