Repaired "sword", yet blower won't turn off when switch set to "0"

[megastihl]

Hi there guys. Update about my sword situation: the funny thing is: I complained about the blower still acting weird even after the new MOSFETs, yet eversince the problem disapeared. I only drove my E32 a few times over the past months, but every time the blower worked consistently, and turned off on "0". If it stays like this I will just put everything back together and leave the sword for what it is for now.

Another problem was that the car only blew hot air, even with temperature was on low. Problem was the heater valves which were stuck. Repaired the heater valves and they open/close like they should. Left side works fine now. Hot when hot, cold when cold. Problem is that the passenger side valve stays closed as the passenger side blows only cold air, even when set to hot. The valve itself opens/closes when you put 12V on it. So is it common for the switch/potentiometer to go bad? Or is this a problem of the central comfort module?

[shogun]

Potentiometer defect I read not a lot about, but of course it can happen, also the central control unit breaks. So both is possible, you could swop and test these units.
IHKA control module pinout is here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...pinout-details so you can test the pins

[youngbimmer]

I had problem with my climate control panel sending bogus commands to IHKA, sword ignores position 0 on the climate control panel. Fixed by swapping a different control panel

[megastihl]

Thanks to both of you for the replies. I'll look into that.

[megastihl]

So... I found some time to get working on my sword for the second time. A few weeks after fixing it, it wouldn't turn off. Fan was blowing at max speed all the time.
Ordered 4 new MOSFETs just in case. Removed the metal "cooling plate" and one of the mosfets was a little black on top, where it shouldn't be black. Looked a little bit like overheating. So I replaced that one mosfet, and plugged it into the car. And it seems to have fixed the problem. Only after a few seconds I burnt my hand on one of the mosfets. That might have explained why one of them was gone bad. They must have overheated. So just in case I replaced the other 3 mosfets aswell, and used some coolant paste in between the mosfets and the metal plate, to enhance the transfer of heat, to prevent the mosfets from overheating again. Also sprayed some isolating spray over the electrical components, and then isolated the mosfets with some silicon (specifically for electrical components), like it is done on the original parts from the factory.

Result: 0 --> fan is off
1 --> fan is blowing, but I think slightly faster than it should on "1"
anything in the range from 70-90% --> fan blowing 95%
MAX --> only a tiny mini micro bit faster than 95%

Normally on max you should notice an increase in fan speed as the relay closes and there shouldn't be any resistance, but when my range inside the car is set at 80% it feels about the same as the locked relay.
Could be that one of the resistors went bad, because it feels like the fan is blowing slightly faster than it should, regardless the range of the button inside the car, and I should have measured this BEFORE I put all this back together ... Nonetheless I'm happy with the result, as it can be used again and is not stuck at blowing full speed. Very satisfied! Total cost: €5 and +- 1 hour.DSCN4422.jpgDSCN4423.jpgDSCN4424.jpgDSCN4425.jpg

[JordyE32]

Hello

as i have the same problem i would like to know where the 'sword' is located so i can remove it myself.

[shogun]

right side of center console, see here the pics http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/54597
this includes also the microfilter removal, but your 1987 model does not have one.